Tools for cambelt/headgasket

ian2000t · #1 06-26-2011, 02:27 PM

Right. so I'm halfway through stripping everything down to change the headgasket, cambelt, Waterpump, Idler, IP belt.

I have the engine at TDC with the cam lobes for No.1 pointing upwards. Now I need special tools for:

- Counter Holding cam sprockets
- Locking IP pump
- Locking Cam
- Locking Crank

I have ordered this for the Cam Counter holding:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

And I have the choice between the following two for the rest of the tools:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Which should I go for? Is anything missing from them that I will need? I am unsure what tool holds the crank still to tighten it to 450lb/ft!!

ian2000t · #2 07-06-2011, 03:57 PM

Managed to do this fairly easily. Would be quite confident doing another D24 cambelt and IP timing now!

To lock the crank I just used a rather large pry-bar in the ring-gear teeth on the flywheel through the "TDC" viewing hole. Glad I didn't buy Volvo's special £60 tool!

michaelovitch · #3 07-07-2011, 02:22 AM

Same technique for me about the flywheel
however the camshaft tool can't be used while you tighten the front pulley you will twist it and don't forget to use the 20/100 hedge under the special tool on the pump side .
don't forget loctite ont he big bolt on the crank

about the tools i don't know i bought a set of two on ebay germany it works great they are all about the same if they are quite precisely machined,they are so simple.

Maybe you will need a tool to adjust th pump too with the bosch ve adapter

v8volvo · #4 07-17-2011, 04:52 PM

Great, glad you were successful. Sorry to have not replied to your initial post, but sounds like you figured it out!

The crank lock tool is a better way to do the center bolt loosening/tightening, since the torque is so great that you risk breaking the teeth off the ring gear doing it the way you did... but I'm glad it worked this time.

Did you end up purchasing either of the two timing tool kits you linked to? Both of them had many more components than you would have needed for a D24T. The only things that are absolutely necessary for a proper belt and timing job on a D24/T are:
-crank counterhold tool (and 27mm socket with long, long cheater bar for applying large torque)
-cam locking bar
-cam counterhold
-IP dial indicator, holder, and rod
-some way of pulling belt idler pulley out of engine front cover (standard C-shaped pilot bearing puller with correct size bolt works great)
-funny shaped 19mm wrench for loosening/tightening rear cam sprocket bolt (you can make one if you have fabrication abilities)

That's it. The pump locking pin is unnecessary and in fact hinders proper pump timing procedure. Most of the rest of the stuff in those kits is not needed, so you can save your money and skip kits like those in the future.

hvguy · #5 10-10-2011, 04:13 PM

wish I had bought that kit before I took my engine apart =(
what cam locking bar are you talking about? ive seen them before however I cant for the life of me figure out where they go lol.

really, im stuck at putting the cam at TDC, the engine has a notch on the flywheel in clear view so thats not a problem, and the pump has a notch on the wheel... none of the pump belt pulleys have been removed, so no probs there.

could you provide assistance on the alignment of the cam?

I really appreciate it!

michaelovitch · #6 10-11-2011, 02:10 AM

[ATTACH=CONFIG]260[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]261[/ATTACH]
4.5 mm of thickness where you have to fill the notch of the camshaft.
don't forget to put a 0.20 mm gauge between this tool and the head.
a piece of hard and straight 4.5 mm thick steel could be enough.
for the flywheel use the O sign only .
the other mark is for the d20 engine.
for the pump you align the notch on the pump with the notch on the bracket with the notch on the pump pulley.
it allow you to have an adjustment quite correct yet.