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Old 05-04-2011, 11:39 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Default How To: D24T Heater Hose Replacement, On a Budget

The below is a method for replacing heater hoses on 700 or 900 series D24 or D24T. Most of this may work on a 200 series diesel as well with some small changes. New heater hoses are expensive or no longer available from Volvo, but can be fashioned at low cost using these readily available parts.

For the hose from the back of the cylinder head to the firewall, a heater hose with part number 171 121 611 E from a VW Rabbit diesel has the required 7/8"-to-5/8" reduction with a 90-degree bend just after the larger attachment point, reducing to 5/8" after the bend. To complete the rest of that hose, use two right-angle 5/8" hoses and a simple 5/8" OD brass union. Use the union to adapt from the Rabbit heater hose to the first 90-degree elbow, then use the heater control valve in its proper position and orientation to join to the other 90-degree piece (some trimming required of all pieces to get all the turns and sections in the right place).

For the second hose assembly, the one that runs from the firewall, under the IP, along the side of the block and ends at the thermostat housing, you need a short section of 7/8" hose (6-12 inches), a 5/8" to 7/8" brass reducer, and a good-sized length from a roll of standard 5/8" heater hose (at least 3 feet). Use a piece of 7/8" hose from the outlet to the tee piece (with small-diameter connection for return hose from cold start thermostat), then another short piece from the tee to your adapter. I located the 7/8"-to-5/8" adapter just before the fuel filter head so that the hose clamps would remain accessible. From there, the 5/8" hose is flexible enough to be installed in a corkscrew shape skirting the injection pump and leading up to the firewall with no small-radius bends, in a shape similar to the routing of the original Volvo molded hose. You may have to use wire ties to secure this section of hose to the brake lines next to the brake booster, to keep the heater hose from fouling the end of the throttle lever and preventing the engine from returning to idle.

Works well and looks inconspicuous enough, with most connections hidden, that you wouldn't notice it didn't have OE parts on it unless you were looking pretty close. The cost for the complete recipe can be as low as $20. The Rabbit heater hose is easy to find for $10 or less. Everything else is basic auto parts store or hardware store stock. Worth the price and effort to avoid a burst hose if you have hose damage from a leaky IP.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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