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  #1  
Old 05-14-2018, 12:51 AM
VolvoGabe VolvoGabe is offline
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Default D24 Thermostat and Timing Kit

Hi, on the lookout for a Thermostat and Timing kit for my 1983 760 Turbo Diesel. I'm told to go for the 80 degree thermostat instead of the OEM 87 degree one. May someone please steer me in the right direction to find these parts. Wanting to get it back on the road ASAP. Thank you.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:25 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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I don't know what exactly you mean by "timing kit"
I think you have to get all parts individually (idler, w pump, t belt etc) Careful with the waterpumps bc there are junk-quality brands out there. Try to find the good one. Tons of write-ups available on this Forum but I have no time to run the forum search right now.

About the thermostat.
I think I'll order this one and redo my cooling system for the Summer because it looks just like the 87Celsius WÄHLER thermostat that I recently installed but this one is the 80°C version. The 87degree version is fine btw and very safe to use (no issues with it for years but coming Summer I simply wanted a system checkup and a new unit)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123005152200
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:37 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Why not this one? Half price the other?

https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Coolan...75.c100623.m-1
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2018, 11:18 PM
VolvoGabe VolvoGabe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
I don't know what exactly you mean by "timing kit"
I think you have to get all parts individually (idler, w pump, t belt etc) Careful with the waterpumps bc there are junk-quality brands out there. Try to find the good one. Tons of write-ups available on this Forum but I have no time to run the forum search right now.

About the thermostat.
I think I'll order this one and redo my cooling system for the Summer because it looks just like the 87Celsius WÄHLER thermostat that I recently installed but this one is the 80°C version. The 87degree version is fine btw and very safe to use (no issues with it for years but coming Summer I simply wanted a system checkup and a new unit)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123005152200
To be exact I'm trying to find a timing belt. I know my water pump is good and other parts, and I've driven the car 1400 kilometers after it sat for 10 years and had no problems apart from it getting hot at times. There are no signs that the timing belt has to be replaced, but been told to replace it just so I know it's good and that it has been done.

About the thermostat, I live in New Zealand where on average the temperatures range from 10 - 25 degrees Celsius, sometimes colder or hotter. Should I get an OEM 87 degree thermostat or go for the 80 degree one so I know that my engine will be running cooler. Thanks
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:06 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoGabe View Post
To be exact I'm trying to find a timing belt.
Seems like I answered this question recently. My FLAPS has them, like $13? Maybe yours can order one for you? If not, try Rockauto, they have Contitech brand.

More importantly, where are you going to obtain the necessary special tools?

Even though your WP is good, moving it to detension and retension the TB can cause the old o-ring to leak, so best to replace that as insurance.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2018, 05:13 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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80C thermostat will be the best choice in your climate, or any other scenario of prolonged operation in hot weather involving high speeds or hills.

For a "complete" timing belt service on this engine or any other engine like it, the rule of thumb is to replace the timing belt and any service parts it touches. For a D24 or D24T that means the timing belt, the idler roller, and the water pump. Even if the water pump is "good" for now (meaning no leaks, bearing OK), if the bearing goes bad later on within the life of your new belt, then it'll take the belt out and the rest of the engine with it. (Or if you're lucky you'll notice it first, but then in order to replace the water pump, you will have to do most of the timing belt job again.) Therefore, the logic is to replace these parts as a system so that everything remains trouble-free until the next routine service interval.

The rear timing belt, which drives the injection pump, should be replaced as well since it is removed during the front timing belt service.

As ngoma wrote, though, there's no point in buying the belt parts unless you have a plan for how you will successfully install them. The required special tools and procedures are mandatory. You WILL NOT be able to replace the timing belt successfully without them. If you try, your best case is that the attempted belt replacement will be extremely difficult and, if you manage to get the engine running again, it will start and run poorly. Other, more dire (but common!) outcomes are that you may not ever succeed in getting it running again, and/or the engine will be destroyed by a sheared crankshaft gear.

Replacing the timing belt proactively is necessary because if it breaks the engine will be ruined. BUT incorrect installation of the belt can be just as destructive.

Those are the warnings. But here is the good news: with the correct tools and process, replacing the timing belt is a straightforward job and you won't have to do it again for many years.

The tools are specialized but not that hard to acquire. Volvo dealers still sell them, or other owners may have sets they will share. Here on this forum, members often loan tools to each other for this work. Many also have had good luck borrowing or buying these tools from independent Volvo specialist garages, or from Audi or VW specialists who deal with the 5cyl version, or on ebay.

As for the procedures, the official Volvo instructions for replacing the belt and associated components can be found in the "greenbook" repair manuals which are available for free online in various places. If you can't find one, post back and folks will point the way. There are also instructions and tips posted throughout the forum here that can serve as an alternative or an addition to the greenbook procedure. Any questions you have that you can't find by searching, just start a thread and ask.
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2018, 03:35 AM
VolvoGabe VolvoGabe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
80C thermostat will be the best choice in your climate, or any other scenario of prolonged operation in hot weather involving high speeds or hills.

For a "complete" timing belt service on this engine or any other engine like it, the rule of thumb is to replace the timing belt and any service parts it touches. For a D24 or D24T that means the timing belt, the idler roller, and the water pump. Even if the water pump is "good" for now (meaning no leaks, bearing OK), if the bearing goes bad later on within the life of your new belt, then it'll take the belt out and the rest of the engine with it. (Or if you're lucky you'll notice it first, but then in order to replace the water pump, you will have to do most of the timing belt job again.) Therefore, the logic is to replace these parts as a system so that everything remains trouble-free until the next routine service interval.

The rear timing belt, which drives the injection pump, should be replaced as well since it is removed during the front timing belt service.

As ngoma wrote, though, there's no point in buying the belt parts unless you have a plan for how you will successfully install them. The required special tools and procedures are mandatory. You WILL NOT be able to replace the timing belt successfully without them. If you try, your best case is that the attempted belt replacement will be extremely difficult and, if you manage to get the engine running again, it will start and run poorly. Other, more dire (but common!) outcomes are that you may not ever succeed in getting it running again, and/or the engine will be destroyed by a sheared crankshaft gear.

Replacing the timing belt proactively is necessary because if it breaks the engine will be ruined. BUT incorrect installation of the belt can be just as destructive.

Those are the warnings. But here is the good news: with the correct tools and process, replacing the timing belt is a straightforward job and you won't have to do it again for many years.

The tools are specialized but not that hard to acquire. Volvo dealers still sell them, or other owners may have sets they will share. Here on this forum, members often loan tools to each other for this work. Many also have had good luck borrowing or buying these tools from independent Volvo specialist garages, or from Audi or VW specialists who deal with the 5cyl version, or on ebay.

As for the procedures, the official Volvo instructions for replacing the belt and associated components can be found in the "greenbook" repair manuals which are available for free online in various places. If you can't find one, post back and folks will point the way. There are also instructions and tips posted throughout the forum here that can serve as an alternative or an addition to the greenbook procedure. Any questions you have that you can't find by searching, just start a thread and ask.

Thanks V8volvo. I found a site called autodoc.co.uk that gave me all these options for a water/timing kit to buy from different brands. Is this a known site and can be trusted, and if so what is the go to brand for replacement parts? I've heard and seen a lot of "Gates" items around.

About the timing kit replacement, I have got no other signs to replace other than people telling me to replace it so I know that it's good. Tool wise, I don't have any and down here in New Zealand, they may be hard to get. I've got the full collection of green books for the 760 GLE and GLE Turbo Diesel - bought them from someone who sold his 740 TD, so I've got all the books necessary which is awesome.

About the thermostat, I will look out for a 80C one. I found one on the autodoc.co.uk site from a brand called MEYLE, but it was out of stock.
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2018, 11:26 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Gates belts are fine. Continental, Flennor, or Dayco are all also fine. These should be available from any seller you check with, either online or from a local store. Makes no difference where you buy them, so just use a seller you already trust.

Timing belts unfortunately do not give reliable signs of needing replacement in terms of visible or functional symptoms. Age and mileage are the only good indicators, which is why knowing when the belt was last done is critical. Other than those, the only indication you will get that the belt is at the end of its life is the moment that it breaks and damages the engine.

This is also why you replace the belt, even if it seems like it might be fairly new, anytime you do not have concrete, documented knowledge of the last time it was replaced, or if there is any doubt as to whether the job was done correctly using the correct tools. You will see the same recommendation for any other interference design with a timing belt too, from Toyotas to Subarus to newer gas Volvos and virtually every other modern engine with a timing belt. Same reason with all of them.

You said you got all the greenbooks, which is good. Did you read through the timing belt replacement procedure and note the special tools that are described? Can you ask the owner you bought those books from where they had their belt service done or if they have the tools?
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  #9  
Old 06-17-2018, 10:13 PM
VolvoGabe VolvoGabe is offline
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Finally got it running at correct temp now. Installed a brand new MEYLE 80 degree thermostat. Took it for a drive and loaded it up some hills and corners and it performed great. Needle sat a bit below half and sat there. One problem down.

Now I got to figure out when timing belt was changed, buy the tools to replace it and then do so. Then in for getting rust fixed so it can become road legal.
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  #10  
Old 06-24-2018, 11:51 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Good going, congratulations. Take a look at the rest of the hoses and make sure you don't have any other suspect parts to watch or replace before you move on to the next task. The short hose at the back of the cylinder head and the plastic heater control valve are common trouble spots that are easy to miss. Otherwise, though, sounds like you got the cooling system sorted out, which is a key achievement.

Folks here will help you with advice when you get ready to tackle the timing belt. Start with the tool list in the green book and reading the procedure over multiple times, and make sure it all makes sense before you take anything apart. Give a shout in this thread if you have any trouble or questions.
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