More IP timing questions

[indestruktable]

Forgive me if I sound ignorant here; I have a fair bit of experience with gas engines but this is my first diesel and I want to make sure I do this properly. I'm replacing my timing belts and am now at the stage of setting the injection pump timing.

I have disconnected the cold start device.

I have the dial indicator and long stand for it, and they are threaded into the pump. I'm following the green book instructions, but per popular advice on here am not moving the pump on its bracket; I was planning on just setting the timing by moving the sprocket on the back of the engine.

The confusing part is, where exactly do I set the dial indicator to 0? The pump sprocket does not move smoothly as I expected, it's more notchy and seems to want to go to certain points but not others. I can't seem to get it to stop with the notches all lined up, which is, I think, where I should be setting the indicator to 0. I'm getting a little frustrated, because I know that if I don't do this right, the thing won't start or run well.

Am I correct in thinking that I can hold the sprocket so that all the notches are lined up, set my indicator to 0, and go from there? I have the VW lock tool which will not fit into the pump because the firewall is too close.

[indestruktable]

Edit/addition... I re-read the green book a bit more slowly and carefully, and went out and took a few pictures.

Someone please tell me if this is NOT "zero." Otherwise, I think I've got the gist of it. The greenbook seems to have a typo- it says to lock the IP gear with 5193, then turn the back sprocket to set the pump! That seems rather impossible.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]301[/ATTACH]

[piper109]

Originally Posted by indestruktable

Edit/addition... I re-read the green book a bit more slowly and carefully, and went out and took a few pictures.

Someone please tell me if this is NOT "zero." Otherwise, I think I've got the gist of it. The greenbook seems to have a typo- it says to lock the IP gear with 5193, then turn the back sprocket to set the pump! That seems rather impossible.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]301[/ATTACH]

You are right dont bother with the locking pin. It seems misleading.

First bring engine to as accurate TDC as possible.
Set dial indicator gauge with about 2 turns preload. You want to be sure the IP bottoms out before the gauge does.

Gripping the just loosened rear cam shaft sprocket with a tool in the spokes, wind it backwards until the dial gauge reading goes to its minimum. This is the "zero" you want.

Set the rim marker and the dial to that zero position.

Now turn the cam shaft sprocket forwards till you get about .9mm or the position you have chosen. Tignten up the sprocket center bolt a bit, enough to make sure it wont move but don't torque it.

Now using the crankshaft bolt turn the engine backwards a bit. It should go back to that same zero mark on the dial indicator.

Now turn the engine forwards again till you reach TDC. Read the gauge. This is how far your timing is advanced.

Make fine adjustments till you get the figure you want. You will find that you have to go a teeny bit higher than the value you want for it to come right.

Once you are happy with the position, torque up the rear bolt. I do this by reacting against the already tightened front camshaft bolt with a wrench but others prefer other ways.

Its quick and easy once you have grasped it.

Good luck,

Steve

[indestruktable]

Thanks, that helped. I watched a few more YouTube videos and it "clicked-" you're right, it is quick and easyonce you grasp the concepts involved.

I'm completely done with the job now. Set the timing to .97 or 98 because my cold start is broken, and I plan to run B20- I've heard it's advisable to increase timing slightly when running biodiesel.

Now all I have to do is reinstall the rad and fire it up! I can't wait, although I am a little nervous about the proper tension on the tbelt- I've seen v8volvo's videos and I think I'm close, just paranoid.

[indestruktable]

Finished up today. Unfortunately the battery was dead- once I charged it, it fired right up. Ran pretty bad with lots of clanging and hunting but that is, I assume, because I disconnected my broken cold start device. Tomorrow I'll tighten up the alternator belt - I turned the engine off because it was squealing- and test it further. But overall I'm inclined to say it seems successful. Thanks everyone!

[indestruktable]

I'm having some trouble getting the thing to start. I'm charging the battery now - I'll spare the details but I somehow switched my battery charger off last night and didn't get much of a charge on the battery.

But with the charge I did have, I got the engine to crank over after cycling the glowplugs, and it would run for a second- just a couple of revs, and then die.

My cold start device is disconnected because it's stuck, so I set the IP timing around .97.

I know that because I unscrewed the plug on the IP to set the timing, I'll have a bit more crank time, but just how much crank time is normal?