1984 245 b21ft to d24t

[chad1966]

Originally Posted by anders

Hopefully chad will update the thread, it still needs the engine harness repaired/rebuilt and a few odds and ends.

I will do my best, here are some things that I found out along the way:

1. The 8 wire plug on the firewall is a pretty straight forward conversion, the wires are just in different locations and the diesel needs less than 8.

2. Going from a manual to an auto car you have to locate the neutral safety switch and bypass it for the key to engage the starter.

3. Diesel's have a very high rear end ratio (3:31) and turbos car's have a very low rear end ratio (3:91). For now I may not even need 1st gear.

4. Hooking up the glow plugs via a momentary toggle switch is really easy.

5. Cole (aka, Rollincole) is a freaking trooper. I dragged his ass with me to do the swap at Anders house. Left Puyallup at 8am, started the drive home at 1:30am, I was falling a sleep at the wheel towing my car back and gave Cole 2 options. I drive and we die, or you drive and we maybe don't die, (cause he had never driven a truck and car trailer before), plus he was just as tired as me. He got us home safe and sound though.

[v8volvo]

Awesome, sounds like it came together nicely! I remember doing basically the same thing with my diesel-swapped 745, the low pressure tank pump makes an ideal diesel lift pump. Also makes changing fuel filters way easy -- I got in the habit of just spinning on the new filter empty, cracking the bleed screw, and turning on the key until fuel came flowing out.

Originally Posted by chad1966

I drive and we die, or you drive and we maybe don't die, (cause he had never driven a truck and car trailer before), plus he was just as tired as me. He got us home safe and sound though.

Glad you chose the second option and made it... Looking forward to seeing this rig sometime.

[chad1966]

Just a quick update on the car.

The brakes have been quite a pain in the ass. The rear caliper pistons were seized so I decided to replace both of them. The rear is all good. I was going to drive it home from my brothers house and got about 2 miles away and the RF caliper was sticky which caused the rotor to glow bright red, boil the brake fluid and lose all brakes. It finally cooled off and was driveable back to my brothers house after an hour.
We checked the calipers out and noticed the rubber dust boots on the pistons were all chewed up so I decided to buy all new rotors, pads and caliper piston seals.
Got the rotors and pads from Volvo of Fife this week, and the seals finally came into Napa today after 2 weeks of having to special order them from Chicago.

I have IPD's full braided brake line kit also to install. I don't think I will be able to get it all done tomorrow because I also have 3 kids to watch over but I hope to get a HUGE chunk of it done.

I am going to flush all the old brake fluid out and add new ATE blue brake fluid. With that being said is there any advice that I need to know before bleeding the brakes.
I have the motive power brake bleeder so I am hoping that will make things go smoothly. Is there a special order or is it just the standard RR,LR,RF,LF?

Thanks and I hope to put up some pictures soon. Is there any specific pictures that ya'll want to see of the swap?