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  #31  
Old 03-07-2018, 05:45 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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With some more lapping (the old fashioned way), the valves are sealing well. The camshaft and seals are installed. Now I'm looking at the injectors. They've been sitting in a stainless bowl, covered with rag in my garage for the past five years. I know the best thing to do would be to have them serviced and tested, but short of that, is there a way to clean them real quick for now? What about the heat shields? Can they be reused? I plan to eventually have the injectors tested and rebuilt if necessary. For now I just want to see if I can get it running.
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  #32  
Old 03-07-2018, 07:31 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Nice nice...progress!! After how many yrs? 3+8plus time spent at Prev Owner.

Please do not reuse injector shields, EVER, they are designed to deform specifically for best possible sealing... every time you torgue an injector into the cylinder head...so reusing them is strongly discouraged. Maybe some owners do!!!? Bad!
Especially because it is appr $2 each. An investment of $12-16 will make sure your injectors wont leak anywhere...AND you will not have to redo that sensitive AND OFTEN DANGEROUS injector project. So many things can go wrong...
These cyl heads are known to get broken threads there and that would be a sad moment. Because injectors often already spent 5-10-15-20yrs in there.
Use caution to make sure the holes are all cleaned (i vacuumed) while somehow plug the holes so absolutely nothing gets in (dirt, rust, aluminum thread particles, old carbon pieces, etc.etc...it is easy to cause damage. Use antiseize on thread at installation but dont use too much. I used copper antiseize but there are other variations.
It was a huge project to keep my inj holes clean right after taking them out. Because it was so rusty and so dirty in there! And i did not want anything to end up falling inside. And some of the injector thread was not in perfect condition and looking worn. This makes doing injectors a project that is riskier than many of us think. Try doing it just once....or as little number of times as you can...for best insurance and long lasting vw diesel sounds

If your old injector seals dont come out immediately after you finally get your injectors out safely, be very very careful. Don't use a crap quality pick tool. If parts or chipped metal lands in the hole, the motor wont be happy. A fraction of a second can result having to do huge projects.
I used the core of an extremely strong copper welding stick that I bent to form a hook of proper shape and size. Make it very long and/or bend a large handle on the other end so it cant fall in. I had to fight 2 of 6 seals like a mad cave man, #5-6 was extremely stubborn.
I went thread by thread to scrape away all dirt while seals were still in and i used a right-size thin plastic pen to plug the tiny hole of the seal itself, pushing pen down while other tool was scraping dirt that kept falling down on the seal. Lots of differently angled picking tools were used. Then vacuuming then redo until inj holes look very satisfying.

Took me a looong time. And i cant even complain bc my injectors only spent 6-7yrs in this cylinder head. Getting the injectors out was still a real biatch. Step by step...back and forth. Rust powder was shooting out and loud squeeking (and cursing!) heard...despite my 3-days of soaking the entire area at each injector in wd40 (or pb blaster?) that was sprayed on. Such a painful couple of days. Stressful too
Do your best to make sure the cyl head doesn't get hurt when taking out injectors that stuck in there. In general.
Also when doing injector torqueing, or when taking them out, please take *extra care* to apply force/pressure in a way so the area under the injector itself does NOT get too much pressure because it can easily break off. Ask me how i know...grrrrrr! @$%&?!!!
One head is out of order now. The little area where the injector threads in, is very sensitive to accept downward force.
Someone here wrote a lot on how to position yourself tightening and how to do it when loosening them. Basically never apply much force to the wrong direction (position your bar so you won't force that area *away from the cylinder head itself and also *not pointing towards the ground).
It is common sense but i think many dont think of it.
I will, forever...my cyl d24 has a huge chunk missing now under injector #6. Someone beefed it the wrong way or was hitting a tool while fighting with a stuck injector or a breaker bar to get it loose..maybe by hammer etc??)

About how to clean them, idk.i got away with cleaning 3sets of injectors but it is really so messy and challenging (to keep it all clean) that i would leave cleaning AND ESPECIALLY setting them, to a pro. I took mine completely apart, marked them, kept them and all tiny parts all separately from each other, soaked them too, did and tried all then did my best and put them together by the greenbook and torqued them then the engines ran but on a car and pump that is getting built I would only use the best (known to be clean and well adjusted) injectors. Idk what to say about you cleaning them...you may get away with a good careful brake cleaner flush, blowing air then redo but honestly idk.

If sat years, the hard lines are also probably a little rusty inside. And the pump.

I bought the proper injector tool from eb@y so injector nipples wont get damaged at my next injector project. A regular deep socket often interferes with those nipples which is not too good of a thing. ( Now my injectors are jb welded and finally do not leak at those "accidentally loosened" nipples.)
Good luck...keep bricking...
give yourself plenty of time to work around the injectors.

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-07-2018 at 08:50 PM.
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  #33  
Old 03-08-2018, 06:08 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Thanks RedArrow--Wow, I'm glad I asked! The donor head had three heat shields stuck in there. I soaked them in PB Blaster and was able to tap in a tapered punch through the holes to extract them. I was going to order new ones from RockAuto, but they only had four in stock. So, I called a local auto parts guy (Parts Plus) and he will have them in tomorrow with a better price to boot.

I tested the glow plugs that I pulled from the bad head and all six lit right up. As for the injectors, I think I'll run them buy my friend's shop for advice. I would eventually like to build an injector tester someday.
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  #34  
Old 03-08-2018, 07:19 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
I tested the glow plugs that I pulled from the bad head and all six lit right up.
The best glowplugs are the duratherm bosch ones. Rockauto usually has them for around $5-8 each. I think part # is bosch 80010.

You will need them. And you need the best ones.
Change it as a set. I would not trust Champion and any unknown brands. And i would not mix different plugs either.
Do it while the engine is out...it is the best time to get it done. Esp if your injectors are out!

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-08-2018 at 07:22 PM.
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  #35  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:09 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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For the injectors: If you capped the inlets and avoided any shocks to the delicate needle in the other end, there is not much more you can really do to "clean" them without risking dirt entering. Hopefully you also stored the injector lines in a way to avoid foreign material from entering.

Reusing injector heat shields: There is a way to reform them, with a 1/2" or 3/8" ball bearing, an appropriately sized socket, and a vise. The idea is to squeeze it back into the original shape, judging alongside a new one. Inspect for any cracking along the circumference of the inner hole.

Red Arrow, please share where you are getting heat shields for $2.

Helpful link for refurbishing injectors:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28
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  #36  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:41 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Im pretty sure I had it from multiple sources already (ipd fcp eeuro groton etc ebay amazon) but here's one. I will search for bosch ones too.

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/PartR...or+heat+shield

Let me edit myself bc of the size of the "fuel filter " hole... LMAO

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...al-068130219my

Get me 13pcs pls so when we meet in LI I could pick it up from you. Thx

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-08-2018 at 11:53 PM.
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  #37  
Old 03-10-2019, 07:37 AM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Hey guys, I'm back. Sorry for the delay but got caught up with other things. My last post was a year ago and at that time I was going to the parts place to pickup the heat shields and filters then get the injectors tested at my buddy Don's shop. Well, while at the parts place, I told the guy behind the counter that I was heading over to Don's to test the injectors. He told me that I'd have a tough time doing that since Don is dead. So that was a setback which led to more delays and now here I am.

At this point, the head is reassembled and waiting for the injectors. I couldn't find the heat shields I thought I bought so ordered them online,-should be here in a couple of days. Now I'm cleaning up the block by running a thread chaser through the head bolt holes and prepping the mating surfaces. I made four dowels out of the old head bolts for positioning the head during installation. The Green book says to install the exhaust and intake manifolds before installing the head. That seems awkward. Today I'll work on installing the new timing belt, crank gear and dampener so that I can turn the engine back to TDC. It must've moved off the mark while I was removing the crank bolt??


So, that's where I stand. Hope everyone is doing well.


Harry
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  #38  
Old 03-10-2019, 05:51 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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While the engine was in the car I R/R the head with the exhaust manifold detached but the intake manifold still attached. It was manageable with two people.

Main difficulty was that I made the locating dowels too long and made the head interfere with other components during installation. Like you, they were repurposed old head bolts. I cut them down further to ease the installation.
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  #39  
Old 03-10-2019, 06:34 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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ngoma--I cut slots in the ends of the dowels to fit a flat tip screwdriver. Right now I'm trying to figure out how the coolant pump is used to adjust the timing belt tension.
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  #40  
Old 03-11-2019, 12:34 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yes, that seems to be the common method for fabbing the head locating dowels. My suggestion was just to not make them too long.

Two of the mounting holes in the waterpump are slotted in an arc, which allows it to pivotally swing in and out to tension and detension the TB. Don't make it too tight. Should be able to twist the TB almost 90deg by using just a few fingers.
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Last edited by ngoma; 03-11-2019 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Correction: Two, not one, slotted mounting holes.
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