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  #81  
Old 04-26-2019, 10:04 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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19misha72's interesting photos show us the lower-mount PS pump bracket, from markets that did not get A/C compressor in that location. And a different-style radiator hose flange on the cylinder head, also (newer?) different-style oil pressure sensor.
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  #82  
Old 04-26-2019, 03:41 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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So that explains the gap. I temporarily have a thick washer in there and plan correct it by installing the joist bracket. I'll check the PS pump bracket to see if that's where that nut and bolt belong. I have a feeling it has something to do with the mechanic removing parts to gain access to the valve cover because they were mixed with the valve cover nuts.

Very interesting observation about the Volvo/VW interface.

I didn't get much further this week. The exhaust manifolds are on and connected to the pipes. The intake manifold is on but I had trouble lining up the bolt holes, it took forever. The cooling system has coolant and a five gallon can full of fuel is standing by. I think all that is left is to install the vacuum pump, change the fuel filter, prime the IP and connect the fuel line to the can. I'll leave the CS for later.

Thanks for the support, everyone!
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  #83  
Old 05-02-2019, 06:15 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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We're getting close with smoke. but no cigar. I put in a new battery, fuel filter and attempted to bleed the system with a Mighty Vac and a primer bulb. All fuel lines are blead except for cylinders numbers 3 and 6. 3 and 6 are getting fuel but no pressure. The sensor behind the head is disconnected to keep the glow plugs on longer and plugs were tested before installation. The aroma of semi combusted fuel was sweet. l I'll keep you guys posted.
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  #84  
Old 05-03-2019, 10:35 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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When I put a dormant engine back into service after it had sat in storage for several years, it did similar. Days and days of cranking attempts, white smoke, no go. What it finally needed was a shot of motor oil in each cylinder. 1/4 teaspoon in each injector hole did the trick-- the engine immediately suddenly roared to life with a startling VROOM!!! on first try.

Requires new injector heat shields whenever refitting the injectors. Unless you know how to reform them.
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  #85  
Old 05-08-2019, 08:46 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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I haven't got much time for the car these days because spring is here. I began following your advice and pulled the injectors and shields to add oil to the cylinders. After doing that I turned the key to the second position and noticed the glow plugs weren't glowing but the light on the dash did illuminate. So I followed the Book's GP fault tracing procedure and everything checked out. I then disconnected the copper strip to isolate the GPs and connect directly to the battery with negative (no glow) results. A year ago they each glowed brilliantly before installing when connected directly to a 12V source. So before continuing I will attempt to resolve the GP issue. Also...I observed an inordinate amount of blow-by while cranking.
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  #86  
Old 05-11-2019, 11:52 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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So you are saying the glow plug relay isn't putting out 12v to the plug bus now, or that the plugs don't light when connected directly to the battery positive even though all 6 of them tested good in the recent past? It would be unusual for all 6 to spontaneously burn out.

What brand are the plugs and do they pass the ohmmeter test (shows continuity rather than open circuit between plug terminal and battery negative)?

How are your engine grounds? Is the cranking speed good?

What injection timing setting did you go with?

Sounds like you are close to the finish line.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 340k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 145k
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01 Audi Allroad 2.0 TDI swap in progress
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  #87  
Old 05-13-2019, 11:01 AM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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The relay is putting 12V to the bus bar. I pulled all the plugs and they've failed. They're Autolite brand. Each one has become bulbous at the tip (sounds funny) as if maybe they were over energized. Just ordered six more.
Don't remember the timing but I'll check. I think I posted posted back a few weeks ago. Cranking speed seems good with fresh battery and connected to charger to maintain voltage.

I'd like to figure out what went wrong with the plugs before installing new ones.

One step forward, three steps back. But definitely close to the finish line.

Last edited by HarryCarry; 05-13-2019 at 11:23 AM.
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  #88  
Old 05-13-2019, 02:16 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
I'd like to figure out what went wrong with the plugs before installing new ones.
Not hard to figure out. Your subsequent statement gives us the answer...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
They're Autolite brand.
You unfortunately used inferior quality GPs, known early failure, and worse; for breaking up and wreaking havoc inside the combustion chamber, and, if the pieces migrate into the cylinder, cause further problems there. Lucky for you you did not run them long enough for serious problems.

They mushroom (as you have noticed) and then start to break apart. The schrapnel bounces around the system...

Stay away from Autolite and Champion GPs (two of the worst). The only good quality GPs we have found are the Bosch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
Just ordered six more.
Six more Autolite? Cancel the order and get Bosch.
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  #89  
Old 05-21-2019, 11:11 AM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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I tested and installed six new Meyle plugs, squirted a half teaspoon of oil into the cylinders and installed the injectors with new heat shields. She's still not starting.


I cracked open each fuel line at the injectors and noticed fuel was spurting from each. I notice a lot of crankcase gas coming from the hose connected to the valve cover. So I'm thinking either there's a compression issue or I timed it wrong. I should've done a compression check while I had the chance.
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  #90  
Old 05-21-2019, 11:50 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Meyle plugs probably won't last as long as Bosch but should be able to get the engine going.

With oil in the cylinders, correct timing, and functional glow plugs these engines will usually start right up no matter what their condition. The added oil is a major starting aid since it not only helps the rings seal but takes up some combustion chamber volume, providing a compression ratio boost, plus the oil itself is combustible as a fuel. Even a heavily worn engine will usually start easily when given this treatment. Also, you know this engine used to run because it must have been running up until the point when the timing slipped and damaged it (correct? I forget the circumstances when you got it).

It is theoretically possible that while it sat since then it got some stuck rings but that is not a common occurrence with these, especially not on all cylinders. Fuel washed cylinders can be an issue also but in either of these scenarios the added oil should help give enough sealing to start.

Don't give up yet. I think you're almost there. Sounds like you have fuel to the injectors and have seen smoke, so fuel is getting in and trying to light off. The question is whether it is getting into the cylinders at the right time. I suggest checking injection timing again. It could be off by 180 degrees, in other words pump timed correctly to the crank but not to the cam. Probably everyone here has had this happen once or twice at some point since it is easy to miss.

Can you confirm your injection pump timing setting relative to the crank TDC mark, and then with the crank and IP marks at their TDC reference, check the position of the camshaft? There are two ways to do this: 1) remove the valve cover and confirm both lobes for #1 cylinder are pointed upwards, OR 2) slacken the two mounting nuts for the vacuum pump enough to see if the pump is under spring tension (drive plunger fully extended) or not (plunger fully retracted). The plunger should be fully retracted with the cam at #1 compression TDC. If it is extended, then the cam and IP are out of phase and you need to retime the IP 180 degrees from where it is now, and that will be the cause of the failure to start.

If you confirm the timing of the IP and cam is already correct, then the next step would probably be to take a video of the engine cranking so we can see and hear it, to find out if there is something else going on that we have all missed so far.

Good luck, I still have a hunch it will run.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 340k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 145k
93 Toyota 4x4 pickup 1.9 TDI swapped
01 Audi Allroad 2.0 TDI swap in progress
01 Jetta TDI 350k
02 F250 SD 5.4/4R100
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