Snapped camshaft at idle.

[Nevadan]

The prechamber wasn't "loose" as it still required a punch to tap it out and there was no visible mark on the piston, nor was the gasket deformed from any prechamber movement. See the photos for the extent of the crack. It does not extend into the exhaust port. I think I'll save this head for future welding and machining work. There's a guy here who welded and machined a prechamber: http://picasaweb.google.com/itzdshtz...15251611814002. You can tell from his blog that he has the welding and machining equipment to do the work, but at least there's proof it has been done with good results. I also have a 2.0TD that had the cracks between the valves welded and machined, it was done before I purchased the head, but again, at least I know it was done.
Considering the rarity of the head and the fact that it isn't warped I'll put it on my shelf. See the next post for the ripped off cam bearing cap base.

From the prechamber side:

From the exhaust port side:

[Nevadan]

So here's some pictures of the cam bearing cap mount that was ripped off. I cut the broken cam so I could insert it into the cam bearing to test the fit. I also clamped the cap onto the base.

Picture without the cam from the front of the engine:

Picture with the cam inserted half way viewed from the rear of the engine:

Picture with the cam in place viewed from the rear of the engine:

As mentioned previously I'm thinking a longer stud could be bored and tapped into the head itself (below the broken off piece where there's about 1" of cast aluminum), then when the nut pulls the bearing cap down it would hold the broken piece into position. The majority of the force on the bearing is pushing up into the bearing cap. I'm just throwing ideas out there as this head will be on my "spares" shelf, and may only get used if we live in the world of "Mad Max" or "Book of Eli", but I like to have my options.

[Nevadan]

So I put on a new head and was going to start the car up. Prior to starting I wanted to prime the pump and get the oil circulating so ...... before I put the injectors in I spun the engine over with the starter until the oil pressure light went out. This took about 3 cycles of 30-45 seconds each. I put the injectors in and when installing the injection lines I dropped one of the injector pipe rubber dampners on the ground. When I went under the car to retrieve it there was a big pool of oil under the crank pulley. I only had time to pull the timing belt cover and the timing belt was soaked in oil.

I'll pull the valve cover, and if necessary the rest of the belts and crank pulley next weekend and see what happened. There's only a few places it could be leaking: valve cover gasket (it's the rubber/metal one piece and maybe I didn't get the front rubber piece in place), the cam seal (it's new and didn't appear to be leaking from there since I could see the seal through the sheetmetal cover) and the main crank seal (I'm thinking it's probably this since the seal didn't seem to go in far enough even though it bottomed out against its seat).

When I purchased the crank seal I purchased two of them in case I destroyed one on installation. The one I put in was a little thicker than the one I saved, probably a little over 1/4 inch. The one I saved was a little under 1/4. After pressing it into place the outer lip didn't seem to seal tight on the shaft. It also may be that I pushed the seal in to far and the seal lip that goes towards the crankshaft has rolled back and just will not seal.

Any other ideas prior to me pulling this apart next weekend?

[745 TurboGreasel]

If you have the rubber/metal valve cover gasket, all the studs need to be screwed all the way in to the shoulder, or they keep the corner of the VC up, and all your oil dumps out.
i think sometimes the cork gaskets have studs that don't have a shoulder.

[v8volvo]

No fun, sorry to hear about that.

Leak from the valve cover should be pretty obvious. Look behind the T-belt cover and see if it's wet on the front of the head. Unfortunately given the amount of oil you describe and the conditions in which it emerged I doubt this is the source.

Hate to say it but if the whole belt is wet then my money would be on the crank seal. I actually never replace those seals preemptively -- with VAG motors, just about the only times I ever see seal leaks are where one has been replaced! Sounds like oil's running out of there and pooling up in the bottom of the timing belt....

Could you have put a nick in the seal bore when pulling the old seal out? Won't be a fun thought but unless you find another source for the leak I would pull all the T-belt components off again, pull off crank cog and yank seal, and take a good look in there. What did you use to install the seal?

At least you know you'll get a chance to really nail the t-belt procedure down, after doing it a second time....

[Nevadan]

I also doubt it's the valve cover gasket, just hoping (praying??) for a quick fix.

Now that I have the proper tools and understand the process it will be much easier this time. Just having all the bolts and fasteners cleaned and lubricated will save about 50% of the time.

I pressed the seal in with a home-made tool: a piece if PVC pipe that was a perfect fit both inside and outside diameter, a large flat washer and the crank bolt. It worked beautifully.

I'm going to measure the depth of the seal "seat" and see if I just pushed it in to far, collapsing the seal lip on the engine side. I'm also going to use the "thinner" seal I have as a spare. I will definitely inspect the seal "seat" upon removal.

When I installed this leaking seal I looked in there and all seemed fine. It was difficult to view, even with the radiator removed but it looked o.k. When I removed the old original seal I'm fairly certain I did not scar the seal "seat" since I was able to grab the seal without touching the aluminum part of the "seat".

It's always easer to make the right decision looking back!!! One of my favorite sayings when it comes to decision making: "We look through this tiny little peephole up front and have an 8 foot rearview mirror! And then the justification: The reason I changed it is there was some dried oil/dirt in that general area as well as on that quarter-moon shaped aluminum piece below the crank pulley.

[Nevadan]

Note to self and others: The firing sequence (firing order) in the Chilton manual is NOT correct. It says: 1,5,3,6,4,2. The correct sequence, per Mr. v8volvo, as posted on this site is: 1,5,3,6,2,4.

After mounting the head and turning the IP as far away from the head as possible the fuel delivery pipes/tubes didn't mate up very well. I couldn't find the firing sequence in the Green Books I have but I had the Chilton manual. That manual is WRONG and cost me about two hours wasted time. Since the fuel pipe for #4 cylinder was the tightest fit I started lining everything up with that one and of course it threw everything else off. I didn't bend any of the pipes but it was quite a maze trying to make them fit. Even with the correct firing sequence it still took a while to get them all in there and the vibration dampers in place.

Once all the lines are in place it looks SO simple. Kudo's to the engineers for making all that fit in such a tight space.