D24T.com  

Go Back   D24T.com > Technical Discussion Area > Diesel Engine and Drivetrain

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:10 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Mids, UK
Posts: 226
Default D24Tic Injector Replacement/Recon

I'm looking to get my injectors recon'd or replaced as power doesn't feel as strong as it should above 3500rpm, idle feels a bit "lumpy", and although these aren't quiet engines I don't think it should "clatter" quite as much - sounds like one cylinder might be "knocking" more than the rest.

Borrowing a DTI gauge so I can check the timing soon though, as that might be contributing.

So... whats the best thing to do in the UK for recon injectors? Are there diesel specialists I can go to? Or should I be looking towards Volvo (£££)?

Kicked myself because I missed at set of brand new (only 5) injectors for £40, which is probably quite cheap..?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:35 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
Posts: 1,614
Default

New injectors are nice but usually not cheap. Before spending that kind of money, check out all the basics. If there are questions about cam timing, injection pump timing, valve adjustment, engine compression, fuel system, etc, then get those sorted out before going to the expense of injector work. If the injectors are indeed worn, then a good injector rebuild with new nozzles can do wonders, but if the problem lies elsewhere then fresh injectors won't fix it. Start with a fresh fuel filter and some good fuel additive. If it isn't running right and especially if it is down on power at higher RPM, a new filter may be all it needs.

If you check all that out and do come to the point of needing injector work, any local diesel shop (that works on Bosch equipment) should be able to rehab your injectors for you, and many times they will at least test your existing injectors for free or for a small fee and tell you what kind of shape they're in. You can also buy Bosch rebuilds (can get you part number if you like for these) from many places online. A number of us on here like Monark injector nozzles -- I have posted the part numbers for those on here in the past, look up my posts on that if you would like those. They should be easy to find in the UK and are a higher quality product than the Bosch India nozzles, though those are probably fine too and might be easier to get your hands on. No need to buy from Volvo, they will just be selling a re-boxed Bosch product at a higher price.

Don't forget you'll need six new injector heatshield washers too -- one for each injector, always replace.
__________________
86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 155k
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-05-2011, 03:42 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Mids, UK
Posts: 226
Default

Thanks for the advice mate.

-Will definitely check IP Timing first.
-Will change fuel filter - got 2 new spares with the car when I bought it.

-How can I check cam timing? Was changed less than 2 years ago.
-What would I need to do a compression check? I have a compression tester which I regularly use on my petrol cars, but obviously not suitable for a Diesel.

-You mention using a fuel additive - is this to give everything a good clean out? What should I use? I've heard of using Techron (?) and ATF fluid to give injectors a clean - any thoughts?

I can get the Monark nozzles (DN0SD273) for £13.65 each - does that sound a fair price? I'll check how much a local place will cost to rebuild injectors with them and set the pop pressures.

At the moment I'm getting about 29mpg (UK gallons) normal driving - slightly heavy foot and ZF slush-box, which seems a little low.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-02-2011, 12:24 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
Posts: 1,614
Default

Sounds like you're working on the IP timing side of things. The noisy running could certainly have been because of the cold start device being stuck.

Did a new fuel filter make any difference?

Checking cam timing requires having the special cam locking plate (similar to VW tool, I will look up the Volvo number next time I have my books out), and you have to remove the valve cover and rear timing belt and reset injection pump timing when you reinstall the rear belt afterwards. A bit of a tricky procedure but if it's not right it will make it run poorly... should have been set correctly at timing belt replacement though, assuming the garage that did the job had the right tools and knowledge of how to do it properly on this exact engine. If they did, then no need to check it, but if there is any doubt, then it should be checked by someone with correct equipment and know-how -- and the crankshaft balancer bolt torque should be checked too, since that also requires special tools and needs a massive amount of torque. If it wasn't torqued properly and it comes loose then you can end up with major engine problems

In my '86 740 TD wagon, with a heavy foot and ZF automatic in mostly city driving, I average around 26 mpg (US gallons). Don't know how that compares with the Imperial conversion. 26 US MPG is not bad for a big, comfortable, safe station wagon that can haul lots and is a pleasure to drive.
__________________
86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 155k
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-02-2011, 05:39 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Mids, UK
Posts: 226
Default

Changing the fuel filter didn't really make much difference to be honest. The old one looked fairly clean inside it.

I can get a set of the Monark 273 nozzles for £74 inc p&p, and a local diesel specialist says they will fit the nozzles at 2400psi for around £40. As I said in my other post it almost sounds like I've got 1 injector knocking/"clacking" at 1500-2000rpm. And is even more noticeable on the tank of biodiesel it has at the moment. I think since disconnecting the cold start it has quietened down a little, but the knocking/"clacking" is still there. Only stops on over-run - i.e. when deccelerating when holding it in a lower gear (2nd for e.g.) it goes perfectly quiet when it falls from 2500 until it gets down to about 1500 and starts clacking again then.

I think 26 mpg US will be around 30 mpg UK, so about the same. Although I'm now getting about 28 since I turned the diesel screw up a bit - but at least it accelerates a bit now!

Worthwhile getting the new injectors for around £100? Is there anything else that needs replacing apart from the nozzles?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-04-2011, 02:34 PM
hagsta hagsta is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gent Belgium
Posts: 9
Default

Hi Ian 2000T
Not sure if you have fixed your Engine, but a couple of other things can cause a clacking sound as you describe. The vacuum pump can make this noise and also one or more worn out Hydraulic valve lifters,if you do not have these then also a noisy
tappet could be the problem.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-06-2018, 07:07 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: New York
Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
Posts: 900
Default Knocking

Thank you!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.