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Old 11-06-2017, 07:09 AM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Default Power Steering Pump Bracket

Going to have the power steering pump bracket welded up for the third time. Has anyone in the forum ever resolved the weakness of the power steering pump bracket. The original is weak and they aren't very common in junk yards these days. Thanks.

Dennis
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:23 AM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Just had a thought. Once upon a time there was a 5 cylinder version of this engine that Audi used. Anyone know what years this was and what cars? Were they imported into the US?
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:46 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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D24/D24T Power Steering Pump Brackets for Sale

A lot of effort has gone into this project.

There is a specific bolt tightening/untightening process to follow that minimizes the stress that fractures the bracket at that trouble spot.

Forum member v8volvo can describe it much better than I, hope he chimes in here.
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Old 11-06-2017, 04:00 PM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Appears to be a dead link.
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:47 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Fixed it. It's in the D24T.com classified section Parts For Sale in case the link still does not work for you.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2017, 10:39 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Tom Bryant had some improved versions built, info at the link ngoma provided. They are new castings and strengthened. His price for them was not cheap to recoup his costs but probably worth it since the originals break repeatedly and good used ones are hard or impossible to find.

The bracket comes in two styles, 240 and 740. The 240 version mounts the pump an inch or so lower to make room for the upper radiator hose to wrap around the mount. In order to achieve the lower mounting position the 240 bracket uses a right angle ear on the bottom instead of the straight boss the 740 bracket uses. Both versions are prone to breakage of that lower ear but the 240 style seems especially fragile. The 240 bracket can be used on the 740, but the 740 bracket cannot be used on the 240 because of that upper rad hose interference. Fortunately the replacement brackets Tom had made are the 240 version, so they will work on any vehicle.

In order to reduce risk of breakage, during installation it can help when tightening bolts to make an attempt to minimize stress on the bracket. Usually I will gently tighten the three upper bolts, then tighten the lower bolt, then loosen the upper bolts to allow the bracket to move to whatever position it wants, then retighten them, then loosen and retighten the lower bolt, and continue doing this until I see no movement when loosening either end. Using this method, I have never had a bracket break during use, but then again most of mine have been 740 style which are slightly more robust, and I also might just have been lucky. Your outcome might vary and any positive results related to the procedure above are anecdotal at best.

I believe the fundamental reason these have such a high rate of failure is because they are mounted on one end to the cylinder head and on the other end to the block. As the motor warms up and cools every time it runs, the aluminum head expands and grows taller, then contracts again when the engine cools off. The repeated stress cycles on the bracket caused by getting pulled on then relaxed with each thermal cycle probably is part of the issue. On top of that, the vibration from the engine and the PS pump is probably a factor, especially if the rubber pump mounting bushings are worn and allowing excess motion. Keeping those in good shape seems to help. They cost a couple of bucks each and are easy to replace when the bracket is off the car.
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2017, 07:16 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Im wondering whether the European version of the bracket has similar issues? (being weak? keeps breaking?)
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:59 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Two questions about power steering brackets. Broken amd unbroken.

Is it a reliable solution to fix (weld) the broken ones?
Has anyone done that successfully?

Also, is it suggested to beef up (strengthten) existing unbroken ones?

Both my non-turbo diesels have their brackets cracked/broken (at the bottom area).

Question 3...
My turbo motor has an issue: ps belt runs visibly misaligned despite all new rubber bushings in the bracket (although it ran just fine like that for many years!).

I have a spare, turbo version of the bracket; and I was wondering about swapping that in to see if it would change something...(?)
I heard that installing one is an annoying project for real, so for now, it is simply postponed till the current one goes broken. Maybe it is broken already, but I simply can't spot the crack where it gave up? I have no idea about it (it is definitely way too cold around here for projects that aren't urgent).

I thought I would ask what your general experience was with these broken brackets.

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-10-2018 at 07:03 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-22-2018, 02:15 PM
Hendo Hendo is offline
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At the risk of reopening an old thread...

I need to replace the PS bracket on my 1982 D24-powered 245 Wagon. I believe I have found a replacement bracket.

This looks like a fairly simple replacement; can anybody confirm that it can be done without disconnecting the pump from the system?

If it is a simple unbolt, replace bracket and reassemble I'll likely do it myself. If I need to drain and refill 5he system, I’ll get it to the shop.

While I’m asking questions... I see that the rubber bushings are $8.75, aftermarket poly bushings are $3, or aftermarket rubber for $1.50. Any feedback on poly vs rubber, or OEM vs aftermarket?

Many thanks in advance...

Last edited by Hendo; 11-22-2018 at 02:46 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-22-2018, 03:14 PM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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You won't have to disconnect the pump from the system. I used poly bushings but rubber may be better for absorbing the stresses that cause the cracks. Check V8Volvos tightening sequence in a previous post when you reinstall.
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