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Old 02-07-2018, 11:17 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilsontom3000 View Post
On the rear cam pulley, that is the cam pulley in the pic off the car, not the IP pulley, was just surprised to see it also had a notch on the outer edge and was slotted, albeit the rear cam nose has no slot, and theres nothing to line a notch up to.
Yes, they used the same pulley for the two positions. The notch and keyway relief do nothing in the camshaft rear position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neilsontom3000 View Post
I eventually got a decent price on a second hand Norbar off fleebay, that goes to 352 ftlbs...
Just realize that a torque wrench is not very accurate near the ends of its range. And, how much do you weigh?


Sequence of steps:

1. Torque the crank pulley first! If you already have the camshaft timed to the crank you can rotate the engine at will, but use a wrench, not the starter.

2. Set the front belt tension (water pump "hinges.") Not too tight. Two fingers should be able to twist the belt almost 90deg.

3. Time the camshaft. Have crank at TDC, loosen the front camshaft pulley bolt, tap the pulley to free it up, place the special tool in the camshaft rear slot, with a 0.2mm feeler gauge shimming the left side (closest to the IP) "up."
Tighten the front camshaft pulley bolt.

4. Set the IP belt tension by raising or lowering the IP mounting bracket. This belt especially should not be too tight or else it will elongate the IP mainshaft bore and leak no matter how many new IP mainshaft seals you install. Two fingers should be able to twist the belt almost 90deg.

5. Time the IP as referenced in the links, we don't use the plug. Unless you get lucky on the first try or two you will quickly tire of the ill-fitting wrench on the rear camshaft pulley bolt, and a rickety pulley sproket holder. Is there nobody in your area that can loan or rent you these tools? Might as well try for the crank tools also.

Do you have the green book?
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