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Torque head bolts
Hi,I am ready to fit my cyclinder head back on the block,I have all new bolts (not studs)'and a new mls gasket.I just would like to know the procedure for the torque sequence for the bolts.Am I right in saying that they also need angle torqued 180 at the finish.
Ps my engine is a d24t Thanks |
#2
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Greenbook says;
Quote:
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#3
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Thanks for putting up the greenbook issue, we should make that a sticky so it's easier to find in the future.
One thing though -- the greenbook's procedure is for the original type fiber composition headgasket -- the steel gaskets don't call for the retorque at 1000 miles and IIRC they may use a different initial torquing procedure as well. There is a PDF service bulletin from Volvo that someone posted here one time with info on the MLS gasket, I will see if I can find it....
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#4
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Here is the skinny on the MLS gasket installation, courtesy of forum member "reed" who posted it here some time ago, he works at a Volvo dealership and scanned this in.
http://www.oldsouthoffroad.com/volvo/SB21-935-0296.pdf Looks like the first part of the procedure is the same for both gasket types, but the MLS procedure stops after the 180* angle torque and requires no additional steps after running the motor, whereas the fiber gasket needs to be tightened another 90* with warm engine and then another 180 some miles down the road. Good luck, what else are you doing to the motor? Sounds like it should turn out nice. Make sure you get your block and head surfaces extra clean when using the steel gasket....
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#5
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head rebuild
Hi thanks for the info,the headgasket was in bad shape as I thought,I stripped the head down and gave it a really good clean,there was alot of gunk in the ports and around the valves,I replaced the valve seals and grinded in the valves.the engine is solid but needed a good clean inside and out,and with a new mls gasket I think it should run pretty good,I don't want massive power but just to have it running nice.I also painted the intake manifold and valve and timing gear covers,it looks alot better than before.I haven't turned the key yet, I am a bit nervous,I am going to double check everything,I think it should be ok.I also had to fabricate a couple of tools for the rear cam sprocket bolt and sprocket holder,you really do need everything the greenbook says to work at these engines if you want it to run again.
I will let you's know how I get on. Cheers |
#6
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That engine looks nice..
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#7
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Thanks,it turned out nice,I thought i would put up some of the pictures of the other work i did to the exterior of the car,i know this is probably not the place to show them,but not sure where else.I do car bodywork for a living so I gave the big car the full treatment,the roof and bonnet (hood) is already resprayed.The car looks like it came of the line again,it gets a lot of looks when i take it out,thats why i wanted to do the engine up because I did so much work to the rest of it.
Anyway I know you guys would appreciate these pictures. Thanks for looking Last edited by m5 sjs; 01-25-2013 at 09:22 AM. |
#8
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Looks brand new... those shots look like they could have come out of the Volvo press catalog. Beautiful work!
Motor looks great too -- should run as nice as it looks once you get it all together. Were you able to get the head on and get it started yet? Looking forward to seeing more of how it turns out -- we have a Showroom section here on the forum, put some more photos up once you have got it back on the road!
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#9
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Hi,thanks for checking out the photos,I got the engine going seems to run ok,although it is still a bit lumpy on first startup when it is cold,does the cold start device have to be working to get a smooth start when engine is cold?I think I need to set the valves also.I haven't took it out for a run yet,but when I do I will let u know how it runs.
Thanks |
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