Timing belt tension question: please help so I can move ahead with the frankenvolvo!

[Grubby]

Hey Guys,
Just did my first D24t timing belt, and I have 2 questions please:
1: The timing belt tension seems good, but is it OK to have about a half inch of play in the timing belt between the backside of the cam spocket and the idler? I'm used to the Volvo B230 where the tensioner really tensions the belt tight once you release it. I know this is a different timing setup, with the w-pump being the tensioner, and tensioned by hand, but I'm concerned about the slop between idler and cam sprocket. I have good tension between the cam and the water pump (it deflects about 1 centimeter with hard finger pressure applied in the middle). I did what the green book said, too, I pushed hard on the belt, letting the cam sprocket move indep. of cam, then retensioned, counterheld the sprocket, and tightened the bolt. The belt, of course finds its own tension when I turn the crank and it pulls the cam sprocket after it. Other than this concern about slop, it seems to be nicely timed to TDC after a few full revolutions and checks with the cam locking tool. I just don't know if I'm supposed to take up more of that slop on the backside of the cam sprocket by pushing even harder on the w pump?
ALSO:
2: Should I put Loctite on cam bolt? I put red loctite on crank bolt.
Thanks in advance! Man, I am excited to get this thing thumpin'!
Abe

[ian2000t]

1 - Sounds a little slack to me, although I'm no expert. I did mine tigher than that - I actually levered the water pump outwards by putting my 1/2" drive socket bar underneath and levering from something - could have been the block. Don't over do it though - mine doesn't howl, and I can still get deflection on the belt by hand.

2 - Don't think it's necessary on the cam bolt to be honest.