#21
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Quote:
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#22
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Quote:
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#23
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Steve |
#24
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Right ok, well that won't have been the reason for the extra power pre-turbo, as I removed the ball completely and haven't refitted it yet. I will refit it, but at the moment if it idles a little slowly from cold I just manually give it a little throttle.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#25
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No, the injected quantity is not changed by the cold start lever position, only timing. Advanced timing can make for stronger power, and if it is coming from having the cold start advance engaged, then it stands to reason that you would notice the difference only at lower revs, since the CS advance system only affects actual timing below about 2500 RPM. After that point the dynamic advance takes over regardless of what the CS system is doing, so the effect of the cold start device on timing and power would only be felt in the bottom end of the rev band. To achieve that effect across the entire RPM span you would need to physically alter the static injection pump timing setting in the advanced direction.
However, like too much boost or too much nitrous or meth or propane, too much advance can make for more speed and fun, but have a detrimental effect on long-term engine health. Good that you fixed it, even if it loses you a couple of ticks getting off the line in the stoplight grand prix. There are other ways of making up for that.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#26
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Where did you try attaching the guide wire and what kind of wire did you use? I have one from a lawn mower that I have set aside to use when the actuator on my own isn't able.
cars rent surfers paradise Last edited by MoeTell; 12-07-2012 at 07:48 PM. |
#27
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Me too!
My waxy wotnot is also on its way out. Up until the last few weeks it was working pretty well but now doesn't want to go all the way to the hot-running position.
(It has always drifted back to a little bit of advance/fast idle in really cold weather (0 deg C and below) when the engine is not working hard - don't think there was enough coolant flow to keep it fully actuated in these conditions...) I'll be taking the advice re keeping the spring compressed and making a tool to remove the locking ring. I'll try to get some decent piccies as I do it and post them up. Likely to be late in Jan when I get round to it though as I have the IP and rear brake pads to tackle first! |
#28
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Tip on reassembly
My first attempt at diagnosing the wax-stat resulted in an easier way to get the springs compressed....just use a temporary longer bolt/screw in the top hole to get it started. The photo is after it's back together but that's the screw I used.
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#29
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Wax-stat mechanism questions.
I've read this thread several times and still have some questions. In the first photo right at the tip of the pen is the gap between the advancing arm and the stop. The wax-stat is completely cold therefore fully advanced. Is that the correct distance? Does it only move that far once the thermostat pushes it back?
This photo shows the manual fuel cut-off valve. There's a relationship between the wax-stat moving the advance arm and the arm that connects to the fuel cut-off. It would appear that once the advance arm is forced back against the stop it may shut off the fuel. I don't have my "Green Book" on the engine yet so I'm not sure about the adjustment. This engine is running on an engine stand and I don't have any water going through the cooling system and the wax-stat doesn't work anyway.
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#30
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Mine rests at approx. the same distance from the stop (when cold) and it is apparently functioning properly, so you are probably OK there.
Not sure what you mean by the cold start lever movement tripping the shutoff lever, but yours seems to have some additional peripherals attached so maybe???
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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