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#1
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I said run, not start.
You might need the ground, a hill will take care of all the rest, as will a jumper cable. |
#2
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Quote:
Although, if we're talking about using jumpers, you don't need any permanent wiring, just jumper cable the glow plugs then jumper cable the starter. Don't even need to keep a battery or alternator in the car. On the subject of buying or converting, is the bellhousing bolt pattern on the block face the same as the 4 and 5 cylinder variants? They seem to be much easier to find, wondering how much hassle they'd be to drop in. Last edited by deimos; 09-28-2013 at 04:35 AM. |
#3
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The 5 is the same but the 4 is different. The 4's are more plentiful but I think the 5 is no more common than the six, maybe more uncommon even...
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#4
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Hm... yeah, probably easier to swap in an OM606 than the 4 then... plus the 4s don't have much power, especially not compared to a modified OM606.
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#5
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Dunno about that, OM606 is pretty long and heavy; they suck to work on too, esp after the return lines start to leak fuel into the injector wells or when you have to pull the intake manifold off to do almost anything on the LH side of the motor. Don't think there would be much that is "easy" about dropping one of those in... 4cyl VW would not be bad, there was a guy on TB that put an AHU TDI into a 245 and I don't think it was a big deal, just not a bolt-in, since BH is different. I think he used a Toyota trans and an adapter.
An Audi five would not be bad, back of it should bolt together, parts in front probably bolt on to the block and head, suspect mounts would be only big difference. Euro 2.5 TDI would probably be most straightforward way to get something more modern and capable of higher output in there, structurally very similar to the older six. Of course a D24T would be the easiest of all, cheapest, and nicest to listen to... way better fit than a POS Benz lump, and for what it would cost to even get a stock 606 in there, you could have a D24 turned up more than enough to outrun it anyway... |
#6
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I'd prefer to buy a factory turbodiesel, but if I'm going to convert a gasoline 700/900 I might as well go big, and the boneyard OM606 I get would probably live on an engine stand for awhile while I rebuild it (which I'd probably have to do with the D24T anyway.) Last edited by deimos; 09-28-2013 at 12:53 PM. |
#7
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Deimos,
Whichever route you take in re-powering your Volvo I'm sure it will be a cool experience. Please keep us in the loop whatever you decide. We're all automotive enthusiasts in here. George is right, I too recall a guy in the TDI Club Forum putting an ALH-spec TDi 4-cylinder into a 245 with a 5-speed transmission. It is a real slick conversion, I believe that car and owner are in California. I'm not interested in manufacturer or brand warfare. You're asking about re-powering your Volvo with a diesel engine on a Volvo Diesel Forum. I would expect people to chime in with a D24T suggestion. If you don't want to utilize the factory route please feel free to try something different. I for one would like to put an Isuzu 4BD1-T into a FZJ-80 series Toyota Land Cruiser. Yes there are factory diesels (in ROTW) but I think that Isuzu is the bees knees! Keep us updated on your project!
__________________
Jim 1985 Volvo 740 GLE turbo diesel |
#8
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Buy or convert.
Hello there. I just purchased an 89' 740 Turbo Wagon. The mechanic I bought it from installed a D2.4T engine and I bought it from him. I am looking into running a 2 tank WVO system as diesel here is creeping up on $1.45 per litre in the larger cities. I have 150 gallons of WVO and I am looking into having a shop that does the "Plant Drive" conversions. I have most of the components needed for the conversion and I am hopeful it will work out. Nice engine and pretty economical on fuel. Regards.
Last edited by Oilburner73; 11-08-2013 at 03:44 PM. Reason: more info |
#9
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I've installed a few kits, and came to the conclusion most of them are not even automotive grade. I go to the hydraulic shop, and spend another $200 on quality fittings. Really, in most cases, you'd be better off spending the money at Summit Racing than any kit I've yet seen.
I got a 15-20 gal aluminum marine tank in my tire well, aced the oil-water cooler, and used those lines for my tank and fuel line heat, closed loop return with manual valves for purge/bleed. Simple and 100% reliable. |
Tags |
beginner, conversion, gasser, monterey |
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