#31
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#32
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#33
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The bubbles might be coming from the input shaft seal, one way yo easily confirm it or not is to put a electric inline pump before the filter. You could also be pulling air from any of the supply fittings.
The leak from the injection pump could be from the dynamic advance piston cover. I have never seen an VE pump leak where the head meets the body. I have fixed three from leaking dynamic piston covers. You will need to remove the pump to re-seal that though.
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12mm pump heads, ARP stud kits and GTD nozzles available! http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1646 NA intake manifolds and 240 turbo pans for sale. Need d24 or d24t parts? PM me! Shipments done on fridays! 1982 242 D24+T/M46- Super pumped! Build thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1545 1984 764 D24T/ZF build thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1734 Diesel parts cars: 82 244,83 244, 84 244, 84 245, 85 745 |
#34
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I have had them leak from the head seal, though this does seem to be a much more frequent issue on newer TDI pumps than on Volvos. My '83 760 is off the road right now because of a dumping head seal, though, so it does happen.
Sounds like your hard start and rough run afterwards is probably due to the pump leaking and losing prime, but checking pump and cam timing and valve clearance would still be a good idea as well, since those are other common causes. Congrats getting it running! |
#35
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I've had to change the pump head o-ring, and it can be done on the car.
I also changed an input seal on the motor, and it was super easy not in the car. I think you could do it at least on a 700 by jacking up the back of the tranny, but it might not be worth the sturggle vs removing and retiming the pump. For the pump head, read this thread, and understand it fully before you begin. http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/v...ce6ed&start=15 |
#36
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I have heard of people doing the head O-ring on the car, I would think it would be a little scary and probably messy, but sounds like it was not that bad? Ngoma and I did a couple on the bench some years back using a similar method (masking tape around the head, cut old seal and stretch new one on w/o pulling head all the way off) but have a lot easier access with the pump sitting on a table.
Don't you think that in theory you could remove the pump, replace shaft seal, and reinstall on the motor, without having to re-time it, if you took bracket off with it? With all the tools I think it would still be faster to take pump off separate and then re-time because dealing with those bracket bolts behind the IP is such a hassle, but if you didn't have the tools (and knew it was already in time), I think you could get away with it... |
#37
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Quote:
What about the elongated bolt holes in the bracket, used to adjust belt tension? If you don't reproduce the exact same position on the reinstall wouldn't that affect timing?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#38
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Yes, but you'd probably tension it pretty close to the same.
I think I could do the head seal on car in 20 min after a practice run. there is some patience, and counting of screw-turns, but it isn't really hard or scary.some have even lucked out,and had surface tension hold the little washer in place without running the bolt down the middle, but I know at least one person lunched a pump that way, and I would not do it without the counter bolt. My technique on the timing was set the motor at TDC,so I can get the lock pin in,then clip the belt to both pulleys, then remove the pump pulley. It's keyed and only goes on one way. with the pump pulley off, you could then remove the pump without moving the bracket. the pin has enough slop, I do't think taking the bracket off will help anything, a pencil mark will do fine. I guess I have the right wrenches, because I seem to take the bracket off about half the time anyway. |
#39
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I have never been inside of one of these pumps and this procedure seems kinda freaky without having another pump to do a practice run off the car... Do I want to order the 17mm input shaft seal I found on ebay? like $15 I think...
Also looking at just buying the timing tool... any recommendations?? I need to get that front timing belt replaced anyways so think I might as well bite the bullet and get 2 birds stoned at once here Drove Ronald around last night... after 3-4 months of driving a stock single port bus he seemed a little faster than I remembered!! lol Ran great but definitely losing prime overnight... This is obviousely what led to my hard starting which led to ether abuse and on and on... glad I am on the right track now!! Thanks so much you guys it is so nice to just have a little support to give me the confidence to wade into unexplored territory! |
#40
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Oh and which head seal o-ring is it? Is the 4 cyl one different than 6 cyl? Just says ve pump head seal VW so am worried it would be for a 4 cyl ve pump...? Will prob wait till friday to order anything
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