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#1
02-01-2015, 06:27 AM
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Rought starting sometimes and rev issue.
Hello dear D24T.com users!
Well back in november i turned 18 and i got my drivinglicense back in january, so i just had to get a D24 to drive daily haha. well i found a 945 Tdic -95 with manuall transmission (M90!!!!!!!) its either belgien import or NL. anyhow the machine was pretty much an old mans car so no youngsters that have been fixing and trixing with it so all is orginal except 3'' exhaust and a bit more fuel set. not much! anyway, i have a issue where when i rev over 2000rpm the engine "hooks" on the rpm, and directly when i goes under 2000 rpm the rev goes down to idle like i should. another issue is sometimes when its cold outside i can glowplug to times with the automatic system where you turn the key and they turn it off and on agian so i really get "glowplugged" anyhow it starts to go just a little very easy but then when it just stops, like on a petrol engine if you would disconnect all the glowplugs, like the engine doesnt even want to start just a little its all dead, then i glowplug agian and agian and agian and finally it starts... when its warm it start pretty quick, like 0.5-1 sec. sorry for misspelling or bad english, in a bit of a hurry when i wrote this. btw my friend sad that it the "hook" rev problem could be from bad compression in the engine or something, but idk. if needed i will record when i coldstart it in the morning so you can see please help me out, i want to have a reliable daily! 
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#2
02-01-2015, 10:20 AM
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after reading and i have seen some diesel on the pumpside of the engine. I have decided to change the "silicone" cover w/e its called on the back of the pump so no air can leak in. puh hope its that easy and that engine doesnt have bad compression...
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#3
02-01-2015, 12:47 PM
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the big rubber ring? mad a big difference in starting for me, but I have not had one affect idle control. Eliminating leaks is certainly the first step though.
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#4
02-01-2015, 01:06 PM
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We're talking about the 17mm IP driveshaft seal? I had one leaker that affected idle. Kept stalling, did not want to idle, but would run at higher RPMs. As this area should be under slight positive pressure when running (there is a weep hole into the seal recess area so fuel can lubricate the seal) it did not make any sense that there could be air ingress there while running. Replacing the leaky seal solved the problem.
Maybe so much air entered the IP overnight that it never completely worked itself out during my testing attempts? As it would die at idle and lower RPMs I did not have the courage to drive it around much because of the driveability problems.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#5
02-01-2015, 05:00 PM
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I was thinking the 90? mm head seal.
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#6
02-01-2015, 11:23 PM
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Well its morning here now in sweden and on my way to school. No diesel today, it showed signs of life when i tried starting it, first 1-2seconds then no more diesel getting ignited..., ran out of battery trying to start it, need to get either a new pump or change the seal at the back of the pump, any guide here on the forums how to change the seal since im not really familiar with pumps
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#7
02-02-2015, 09:39 AM
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Before you go with this complex R/R seal procedure, let's verify that shaft seal is indeed the actual problem. Have you noticed fuel leaking off the back of the IP or getting flung off the pulley? A leaky fuel return line or LDA pin o-ring can also make for hard starting after overnight rest, due to air ingress into the IP.
Have you studied this sticky (Hard Starting)?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#8
02-02-2015, 04:09 PM
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Since the pump mounts in our car backward, what do you mean by "back of the pump", Input shaft or rotor head?
The fastest way I have of diagnosing a leak is to hook up an electric lift pump inline before the fuel filter. these seem good for the money. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1612229...lpid=82&chn=ps
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#9
02-03-2015, 01:51 AM
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well last night i tried starting it again with powercables from another car next to it. nothing happend for good 2 min then i thought about the "straw" method. if i would blow in the hose to the tank the only way the diesel would go is towards the engine, right? well i went to the back of the car by the gastank and unscrewed the "tank lid" guess what i heard... sounded like a fucking blackhole in space. so much vacuume so instead of trying to blow in to the tank i just opened the lid and tried starting, and after 5 sec of running on the starter it fired right up. so now the issue is fixed with hard starting, but still the pump is leaking and the rev issue is still there... and yes the pump is leaking on the sprocketshaft at the back of the pump toward the back of the egine, so the bosch seal have to be change, and i found a VE pump seal at a dieselpump re-builder also known as "dieselmeken". anyhow starting issue is fixed but i have no idea about the rev hook issue. thanks for you help guys!
later today im gonna go trought all the return lines, btw should i even change the ones between the nozzles?
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#10
02-03-2015, 05:28 AM
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If your drive seal on the pump is leaking it's probably drawing air into the pump which will explain your being unable to rev the car. Replacing the pump seals should solve this though it's probably worth having someone knowledgable do the rebuild if you're not confident. Dieselmechen is the guy who builds pumps for blacksmoke racing isn't he?
Glad to hear you have the starting issue fixed  Richard
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