D24T.com  

Go Back   D24T.com > Technical Discussion Area > Diesel Engine and Drivetrain

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 08-02-2015, 06:12 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default 84

I dont think it is an 81 d24. Or at least not the head. The stamp says 84. I dont know how to properly read all those markings (all over the engine) but it does show `84`.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150725_153341.jpg (97.5 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 20150725_161943.jpg (95.4 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 20150725_161939.jpg (93.8 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 20150725_153348.jpg (97.1 KB, 21 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 08-02-2015 at 06:18 PM. Reason: picture was added to the post
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-03-2015, 08:45 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default 81

Some confusion here as oil pan shows 1981. (?) Time to talk to previous owners for history.

I have 4 questions for the experienced. :`)

1,
Is it highly suggested to use an original VOLVO gasket?? No issues with aftermarket?

2,
What is the torque specifications on the oil pan bolts? Looks like I can`t find it in the `83 d24 manual.

3,
www.volvooemparts.com (North Point Volvo) lists the oil pan gasket as #1257662 for 1984 d24 240.
Did earlier d24 diesels (`80) use the same? And how about the d24t engines?

4,
The oil dipstick tube needs a new o-ring. Looks like there is room for two... Why. What is the original setup?? Suggested to use a (high-heat) sealant/glue also? Which one?

Thanks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150903_200611.jpg (86.6 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 20150903_183940.jpg (98.7 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20150903_181205.jpg (93.5 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 09-14-2015 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Pictures added
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-05-2015, 12:51 PM
BluevanACD2005 BluevanACD2005 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 143
Default

1. I used Victor reinz last time, no leaks that I've noticed. It's just a flat mating surface, so just make sure its clean and dry, I used a little RTV too.

2. I couldn't find the specs either, but just made them snug and made sure they were all decently tight by going around and across multiple times.

3. Don't know the answer for that one.

4. I'm not sure why its so wide, but I put a new o ring on it and took up the extra space with a little gob of RTV on each side of the o ring. I used the black permatex... It's supposed to be oil resistant and I have had good results. I doubt that area gets that hot. Maybe 225 F at most. It's away from all the exhaust stuff and on the outside of the block. Just my opinion... I haven't taken an IR gun to it or anything haha

Spenser
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-10-2015, 07:24 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default Oil pan related

By black Permatex did you mean Permatex `Black Silicone`?
About torque;I will do the same as you, unless someone finds torque info somewhere.(rare Volvo workshop manual pages??idk)
About o-ring(s); I bought a kit and will use 2 Vitons plus the sealant. Thx for the reply.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-11-2015, 01:58 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: WA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
Posts: 987
Default

Sounds like you're making some progress!

No worries about using an aftermarket gasket for the pan, they are just a simple flat paper gasket. The Elwis and Reinz gaskets I've used before always come as a 2-piece gasket with edges that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. I use a bit of sealant on both sides around where the two halves meet to ensure sealing there, and also at the joints where the front cover/oil pump housing meets the block and at the rear where the rear main seal carrier bolts on... my favorite is TDI oil pan sealant (gray Reinzosil) but likely anything you have will do just fine. Bolts just need to be tight enough all around to squeeze the gasket and not too tight so as to pinch it, and be uniform... the "calibrated wrist" method works fine.

Pan gasket is the same for D24 and D24T and I don't think the early motors have any difference vs the late, though a call to the Volvo dealer would no doubt clear that up if there's any doubt.

I think I've found some square section O-rings on some dipstick tubes when I've taken them out so that may be what was originally used there. Anything that will fit and seal up is fine of course. Think I used a couple last time I had one out, and maybe a little bit of sealer too.

What are your eventual plans for this beast?
__________________
1986 745 D24T/ZF
1983 764 D24T/M46
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-12-2015, 08:36 AM
BluevanACD2005 BluevanACD2005 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 143
Default

Quote:
By black Permatex did you mean Permatex `Black Silicone`?
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-maker-detail

Spenser
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-14-2015, 07:57 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default Old stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Sounds like you're making some progress!

What are your eventual plans for this beast?
That progress is SuperSlow, thanks to a trillion factors at home, at work, PLUS this engine keeps surprising me with newer and newer issues to solve. A true disaster it looked, inside and outside. Probably spent yrs uncovered, or, in parts, or both. idk. I`m multitasking, going through several crucial details but it was the fun fixes only, for now, then will concentrate on others. Getting it safely started as a first step... before making any plans for it. I`m a d24 student lol, and it`s a true project for real. Tricks, tests, observations and the tipical stop-and-go parts-hunting. Also the tools.
Badly, it needs serious cleanups inside and outside. Good news is that All is documented (picts) so one day in future it all jumps into this thread.

I would love something unique when/if it runs ok. Being realistic, it won`t happen any time soon. But i had to get something to wrench on !!! because my wagon is built sooo professionally and runs sooo reliably that I`m not touching things that are not broken. This crappiness `81 is a great risk-free challenge and a lifetime lesson/experience )))
This pict motivates me. Great to see a clean running engine on a fun rustcar, isn`t it? Im eyeballing a similar rust-body at the warehouse... And a WW2 Jeep. I must stfu from now on, till I measured compr. :O)))
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1930_Ford_Model_A_Rat_Rod.jpg (92.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg overlay-4.jpg (77.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg overlay-3.jpg (88.4 KB, 6 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 09-14-2015 at 08:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-15-2017, 05:24 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default Update

Twenty-six months have passed... so it is time to update this old thread on the old 1981 d24!
Soon after dealing with this "experimental project", I met the owner of a nice blue Volvo 1984 240 sedan who had enough of trying to start up the d24 "powerplant" lmao so he made very different plans for his brick and kicked the diesel out of it to make space for the 302 motor... so I bought the "unknown condition" d24 that they never managed to start up, unseen.
The resurrection of the 81 immediately seized but that time I didnt know it will take over 2yrs to write about it.

Well, revival of the unknown 1984 d24 that tricked so many owners by refusing to start up, seemed more interesting. Soon, a busy day of clean-ups, check-ups, fresh fluids, creating a minimalist style "engine harness", checking belts, crank and valves etc, flushing and retiming the pump and cleaning injectors, adding a low pressure pump for bleeding, it fired up and ran good.

In the following months then I took them both apart, all accessories came off, I cleaned, painted, refurbed and replaced parts of both engines only to learn "the d24 stuff" and to exercise main projects.

Reading the D24 Greenbook and spending long nights on this forum, reading a lot of good stuff from you guys,
I had a really good time.

I'm planning to finally remove the head of the 1981 this weekend. The edge of injector hole is broken off/ chipped off very badly. Cyl #6. Injector wont thread in since half or more is missing. Someone mistreated this motor or just hD bad luck while fixing. Or tinkering.

I wondered,
Theoretically, can a d24 start up and run with one injector not there? CrZy question.

The head needs to come off anyway but I was wondering. And I attempted to start it up. Everything was set to factory specs, good injectors, flushed and timed injection pump, all new belts and gaskets, new bosch glowplugs, valve adjustment, good cranking power and speed etc.. I had a feeling it would start.

These engines are kept for learning and exercising "the d24 stuff" ..."disassembly-assembly-then redo" type of fun, also great to learn confident&proper usage of the rare diesel-specific Volvo tools.

Pictures later.

Last edited by RedArrow; 11-15-2017 at 05:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-15-2017, 06:23 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 584
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
I'm planning to finally remove the head of the 1981 this weekend.
Here's a trick I learned after breaking a head bolt while trying to remove it:
Before attempting to unscrew them, give them a good direct hit with a heavy hammer and a good punch that fits into the bolt head recess without interfering with the "teeth." To help break up the bond that may be holding the threads to the block. Also, for the stubborn ones, try working the bolt back and forth in small amounts, like when tapping threads. Trust me, you don't want to break one of those bolts!


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
The edge of injector hole is broken off/ chipped off very badly. Cyl #6. Injector wont thread in since half or more is missing. Someone mistreated this motor or just hD bad luck while fixing. Or tinkering.
That can happen when you're not careful about orienting the ratchet handle when removing or installing the injectors. Orient the handle so you apply force in the direction towards the engine, not pulling away from it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
I wondered,
Theoretically, can a d24 start up and run with one injector not there? CrZy question.
Didn't GM do something similar with the Northstar engine where it could cut out cylinders at certain times?
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t
1985 745 gle d24t
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-16-2017, 05:37 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NY
Vehicle: `86 745
Posts: 478
Default Punch

Thanks for that advice. Yes, im expecting it to be that hard.
And here's the chipped piece. I had it in the partsbox that came with the 1981 d24. Pretty sad. Injector stays loose in there.
Best fix??
And the injector itself, too ( i think i remember one of six), was cracked all across.

(Maybe not even worth repairing...well...the head needs to come off first and I'll take a look at it)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-16-08-28-16.jpg (7.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-16-08-28-26.jpg (4.4 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-16-22-33-49.jpg (7.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-19-17-05-02.jpg (24.5 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 11-19-2017 at 02:05 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.