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  #1  
Old 04-18-2013, 06:36 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Front susp

Not surprised. Left front has a fresh leak now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxrS1...ature=youtu.be
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LuLt...ature=youtu.be
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File Type: jpg 20130418_133705.jpg (92.3 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 04-18-2013 at 06:47 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:24 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Strut structure struggle

I could use a great reliable spring compressor. I`ll have to look around in a few stores. Which ones work well? Autozone sells cheapo ones for high bucks... I checked the left front of vehicle for loose connections and badly worn bushings but could not find any dangerous thing... except for the monster spring of course.
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File Type: jpg 20130423_210434[1].jpg (90.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20130423_210038[1].jpg (91.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20130423_210410[1].jpg (94.2 KB, 7 views)
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2013, 01:19 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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The clamshell ones are best, but are like $300
I have a couple sets of W89322 that work fine, and made some adapters to allow driving them from the other end.
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2013, 10:59 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Default

I have this
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-...sor-43753.html

and (similar to) this
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html

They both work. The clamshell style is less bunglesome, and seems more secure.

Tip: grease the threads for longevity.

Last I checked, Autozone had the dual screw type as part of their tool loaner program.
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2013, 05:53 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Tested quality

Thank You
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:33 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Odd, What is making the noise? I changed almost everything in the front end when I put that together just about a year ago. New struts, mounts, balljoints, tie rod ends I think, cone bushings. You are sure the leak is from the strut tube?
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2013, 09:02 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Strut tube

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
The spring compressor worked fine!
I recently ordered Bilstein Touring inserts but I could not wait for it to arrive so I took the strut apart yesterday. Now I know for sure that the leak is from the strut tube...
The upper strut mount&the bearing is in good condition but the gland nut is pretty `old looking`& very rusty. The threads on it look so-so but not 100% great... I had too much clunking/knocking noises for a long time because it somehow became loose. I`m sure it did because last time while I was tightening `it shot itself up`and completely came out of the housing (making it harder* to remove the strut assembly). Threads of housing do not show major wear or damage. That`s the good news but I have to do the job again when new inserts arrive. Temporarily I put the thing back together. I noticed that the gland nut does screw in ALL THE WAY into the strut housing nicely and it looks/feels safe&tight. (threads ok? )
I really do not like to see half of the thread being out of the housing so I tried this. Especially because I know that it came apart by itself once already.

I decided to have it secured all the way into the housing BUT now I have to deal with something: it resulted me an issue that I could not solve right away and I`m asking your opinion on this matter.

There`s a removable spacer under (or IN?) the strut housing tube. I can`t get it back into its position (i think) because of the gland nut being secured all the way in the housing....so now I can`t safely connect the strut with the ball joint... there`s a 5-6 mm gap in between them! (strut tube lower end --- ball joint).

Any idea on what is the spacer really for and how/where to position it? Is it important to have it there or not? I tried to fit it both ways (regular and upside down too) but I just can`t make it fit or if I do, the ball joint can`t be tightly connected which I do not like. Something is wrong for sure (-with me) but i`ll redo both struts anyways. When I had the strut in parts, I just found the spacer on the ground (fell off) so Im not sure how it is positioned. Kill me for this stupid question but IS IT SUPPOSED TO BE *IN* the tube? I`m worse than lazy to remove&see the other strut just to figure this out (because I will have to do it soon anyways).

I am wondering that the `spacer` being out it should give me a lot more gland nut thread engagement... And I would really like that gland nut all the way in! When the new shocks come, I would do the same on the right side as well. Currently half of thread is visible (=out) there too. I feel better if this works out well. Great idea or a big no-no?
PS. Now I have the gland nut all the way in but a gap between the ball joints and the strut housing. If removing the spacer is NOt a great idea, shall I just go ahead and loosen my worn/dangerous gland nut back to gain the 5-6mm back for the spacer to fit in nicely? I`m sorry for thinking loud about it. Please comment.
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File Type: jpg spacer under OR in strut housing tube.jpg (51.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 20130529_215159[1].jpg (93.7 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg stupidity is not funny but dangerous.jpg (96.1 KB, 7 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 05-30-2013 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Added a question
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  #8  
Old 05-31-2013, 03:08 AM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Ball joint on first.
Spacer in the bottom of the tube (not all cartridge/strut combos need it)
install cartridge
the Gland nut must clamp the top shoulder of the cartridge against the bottom of the housing, it MUST NOT bottom on its threads. If it's threaded tight, and the cartridge can move at all, you needed the spacer.
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