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Old 11-05-2017, 11:37 AM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Default Settings for pump timing question.

It has been a while since I have messed with this car. I had given it to my son a year or so ago and he being young and hard headed drove it with a coolant leak. When I first built it I was unable to find a metal layered head gasket. Anyway he blew the gasket. I now have it back together to the point of setting the pump timing. I remember I think that here stated that 1.05mm was a good performance setting with no problems for the engine. I was thinking 1.00 would be a good setting for a little more pep. Anyone??
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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Old 11-05-2017, 12:12 PM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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I decided to shoot for .098, but after torquing the pump bolts down and another revolution to check it I am at .092, which is a tad above what Alldata says, and since it is going back to my son I guess I will leave it there. Could you tell the difference between .092, and .098 performance wise anyway?
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:23 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Could you be off on your decimal point placement? Assuming you are talking mm, then I guess you meant .92mm. Alldata probably specs .86mm or nearby.

To your question: I probably couldn't perceive difference between .92 and .98mm. I figure there's at least that difference in the parallax viewing error introduced sighting the flywheel TDC mark thru the bellhousing cover pointer.

I usually aim for between .85 - .90mm and call it good.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:48 AM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Yeah. My decimal placement is off. Must have been thinking in inches as I typed. I figured the setting would be okay. Actually my base setting was around 87 which would have been okay by Alldata. As long as I have you here another question I have is about the cold start device. The wire on this thing that connects to the throttle lever is looking pretty bad. How hard to start will this engine be if I were to just leave it disabled (In the warmed up position)?
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2017, 08:42 AM
verdigo verdigo is offline
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Yes. Looks like my brain was having trouble making the change from American to metric. So yes my decimal placement was off. I better go have a look at that dial indicator
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83 D24T 245 .50mm oversized pistons, 3 inch exhaust, but otherwise stock except the boost is turned up to 20 psi. 81 VW Caddy 1.6TD with some minor head work, and big exhaust.
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2017, 12:26 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by verdigo View Post
How hard to start will this engine be if I were to just leave it disabled (In the warmed up position)?
Good call. The warmed up position is the preferred default setting in the case of inop. cold start mechanism. Otherwise, the IP timing is running too advanced during general operation.

The usual failure mode is a failed waxstat capsule. If the cable is frayed (and even if it is not), you should safety wire the adjustable stop on the end of the cable so it doesn't disappear when the cable breaks. Unobtanium.

IP cold start mechanism safety wire.JPG
example of "safety-wired" cold start stop

My experience with inop. cold start mechanism has been fine, in cars with all GPs functioning, decent compression, good battery, starter, and 5w-40 full synthetic motor oil, in temps down into the teens F. In low temps, the first minute may produce a lumpy idle and extra smoke.
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