245 DL Turned Turbo Diesel! - Page 4

Slobodan · #31 10-10-2011, 01:27 PM

Good news. I have gotten new head bolts, new gasket and an '83 Cylinder head to setup on my D24T.

Now I just need to finish some other projects.
like M47 swap in a 245 DL in exchange for some bike work.
Finish up this D24T swap in a 740.
Do a head gasket on a D24 and swap that motor into 265.
All that must be done before I can start in on my car.

Why do I put others before me?

Slobodan · #32 10-30-2011, 07:14 AM

well today is the day I get my 245 td out of storage and repair the head gasket!

Slobodan · #33 11-13-2011, 10:08 PM

Got the head off, everything is clean and okay looking. Put down a new head gasket and slapped on the '83 TD head and new head bolts.

Comp test turned up 50psi

HOW CAN THIS BE? I drove the car 55 miles to my house to fix it.
So I squirted some oil in the cylinders re tested the compression 400 450 500 500 500 600. Wow thats more like it. And then while I was bleeding the air out of the fuel lines I heard the compression go away.

Why does this happen?

piper109 · #34 11-14-2011, 05:12 AM

The rings might be a bit sticky.
When the pistons go down, the rings get pushed in a bit. If they are sticky, when they come up, where the bore is a little bigger, they no longer tightly seal.

Try putting some Marvel Mystery oil in the bores for a couple of days to try to loosen them up.

Steve

Slobodan · #35 11-14-2011, 10:32 AM

Okay well I squirted some engine oil in the intake runners, cranked it by hand. Got nice compression.
Still no starty.
I've set injection pump timing to .90mm
I've rechecked it and it was .90mm
confused and frustrated I retimed the pump to .85mm
Got it to run. but man it runs smooth! however I screwed up.
I put the engine together out of sequence; example:

Cylinder head on.
torque 15/25/33/44/55 180degree - I like to torque my head bolts in small increments and give plenty of resting time.
Performed comp test. as posted above.
put the valve cover on.
then I timed the pump. Not paying attention to the camshaft's phase.
Hence I timed the pump 180 out. damn. Atleast I figured out how I fucked up.

Slobodan · #36 11-14-2011, 05:06 PM

mini update:
Timed the pump the proper way with cylinder #1 on it comp stroke. and injection pump to .88mm
Hot damn she runs smooooooooth. and it feels like she is more responsive now rather than before I changed the head and head gasket. pump timing before the head job was about the same .85mm.
Got it all nice and hot. and did the 90degree angle torque just as the green book recommends. All I need to do now is drive it 1000 miles before the final head bolt retorque.

v8volvo · #37 11-14-2011, 10:34 PM

Glad to hear it is back on the road!

I have had to fix ones that have gotten timed 180 out too... good trick to remember is that you can tell where the cam is without taking the valve cover off -- insert the vacuum pump drive rod into its hole, and if it goes all the way in you are at #1 compression TDC... if it still protrudes out a ways then you are at #1 exhaust TDC and the cam is 180 off. Saves some time if you have one that looks like it's timed to the crank right, but you are not sure about the cam. Easy mistake to make, but at least it is an easy one to correct too.

I keep talking about a NW Volvo Diesel get-together... now that yours is back on the road, maybe once Anders gets his 244 finished up we ought to get something organized here in the Puget Sound or PDX areas. I would enjoy a chance to have a look at your cars.

Slobodan · #38 11-15-2011, 06:06 AM

hey a get together would be cool. put some faces to the screen names.

I don't have a vacuum pump on my engine. I just put the pump at #1 and rolled the crank over 1 turn back to Zero mark. and set the timing once again. Kind of blindly but Now I know how a D24/D24T will start and sound like timed 180 off. Nothing like personal experience!

I don't have a vacuum pump on this motor because I find them to be ugly and take away from the serviceability. since most the servicing that needs done requires you to remove the vacuum pump. Plus it blew up on me. my brakes work pretty well with out it aswell. I am tempted to rig up the cruise control pump from a 740 to turn on every time I hit the brakes so I get heater vent control. but don't know.

Jason · #39 11-19-2011, 01:15 PM

No vac pump? My brakes sucked when I first installed the engine and had a vac leak before I found it. Car wouldn't stop worth a crap!

Jason

v8volvo · #40 11-19-2011, 11:46 PM

Maybe next summer will be the time for a get-together... that will give me enough time to get a few of my own projects done too. ;-)

How did you eliminate the vacuum pump? Did you make a block-off plate? There is a fair amount of oil that runs through that opening, ask anyone who has ever had a leaky vacuum pump O-ring... curious as to your method. The pumps are not difficult to rebuild. It is true, they have to be removed for service on a lot of jobs (though if you have the correct Volvo long dial indicator extension you can time them with the pump in place).... but removing the pump is pretty quick and easy if you put the engine to #1 TDC first so that tension on the spring is relieved. And I agree with Jason, even with just a small vacuum leak these cars are quite hard to stop..... I hate to think how it would be with no assist at all. Add to that no heater controls... A fogged windshield and weak brakes do not a good combination make! I would hate to be the guy driving in front of you on I-5 in the rain... :-P

I am surprised that you were able to get the motor to run at all with the timing 180 off... the last one of those I had to fix, they had only been able to get it going with the timing out by shooting a bunch of ether into it! It ran for a while that way..... after I corrected the timing it ran on its own fuel too, but the ether damaged it -- popped the metal headgasket just a few miles after it had been installed! Only case I know of where someone has been able to blow an MLS headgasket in a D24T.