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  #1  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:19 PM
bryancald bryancald is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal
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Default CSV Settings - Can I do this with the IP installed on the engine?

While rebuilding my pump a few months ago, I mistakenly loosened both CSV cable ferrules.
Now that it's getting colder, I'm realizing just how much I screwed up.

Is there a way to ballpark set the valve with the pump still in the car, or do I need to send it to somebody?

One more question:
I've read the posts about people tweaking the timing values on their D24T's but does anyone have a better than stock (California) for a N/A D24?

Thanks,
Bryan
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  #2  
Old 12-10-2011, 02:00 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Location: West Mids, UK
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If I'm right, the only adjustment is just how far along the cable it connects to the lever on the pump?
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2011, 11:02 AM
piper109 piper109 is offline
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First of all, yes, the adjustments can be made with the pump in situ.
The cold start does 2 things, 1 it advances the injector timing slightly, 2 it raises the idle slightly.

When the engine is fully warmed up, the CS lever should be all the way back against its stop. The cable then should be adjusted so there is a little slack , with the toggle engaged.

When the engine is cold, adjust the little ball in its slot so that it pushes against the throttle lever to raise the idle to where you think it should be when cold, noting that when the engine is hot, there should be an air gap between the ball and the throttle lever, meaning that the throttle lever is back against its normal stop.

When you want to time the engine, the cold engine should have the CS arm in the warm engine position, so you turn the toggle 90 degrees and slide it into the slots on the rear half to make the cable go completely slack. When you have finished, turn the toggle back again so the cold start can work properly again.

Hope this helps,

Steve
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  #4  
Old 12-12-2011, 06:02 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Sorry to crash this post a little, but does anyone have a diagram of what is inside the CSV unit? Mine has never worked (was stuck in cold position when I bought the car) so I took it off.

I got a second hand one (but it's just the end with the waxstat in - no other internals, and not the casing of it the "pump side" of the plate).

I put all the internals and "pump side" casing onto the new waxstat and dropped it into boiling water... but it didn't move at all.

I tried putting just the wastat end into the boiling water, and it looks like the waxstat just becomes less stiff when it warms - but surely that means it would allow the cable to be pulled when warm, rather than pulled when cold..? I think there may be a peice missing inside my original one, or at least something not fitted right?
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:24 PM
piper109 piper109 is offline
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That thing is a pain in the arse to work on. The waxstat is opposed by a nasty spring which pulls the cable. Taking a complete one apart gives you a nasty surprise. You have to be clever to hold all the pieces together in the right place to put the screws back in. Actually the easiest thing to do is to use two long screws of the correct thread, close the thing up then replace the long screws afterwards with the correct ones.

"michaelovitch" has uploaded the Volvo green book onto "scribd". You can get the .pdf up on your screen and scan the pages till you find the section that covers this gadget or you can pay a small amount and download the whole thing.

Steve
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:55 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Yeh, I know. Managed to take it apart a few times, think I got the art if trapping the device against the floor with my knees while I get the allen screws in. If my knees slip, half of it might end up in outter space though!!

Have got the greenbook pdf's (TP30224-2 recon; TP30420-1 repairs pt.1&2). The only one that mentions anything more than disconnect/reconnect cold start is pt.2 of the repairs.

And I quote the complete section for "Cold Start Device":

Quote:
General
Cold start device may onty be adjusted on a special
test bench, when connecled to injection pump.
However a service check can be carried out on an
installed injection pump.
Note lf cold start device does not function the following will occur
cold starting difficulties
blue whiie exhaust smoke
- engine will not start at temperatures below -10"C
(-14"F).
AM2
Operation check
Measure idle speed when engine is cotd and hot.
Cold engine (below 20"C = 68"F) = approx.3.3 r/s
(200 r/min) more than warm engine idle.
With warm engine, lever on cold slart device should
not contact lever on injection pump.
ldle speed (warm engine) = 12.5 r/s {750 r/min).
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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