Coolant hose failed

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

Why am I thinking that easiest way would be to get the hoses onto each end, let them meet at middle where u would see either a compression fitting or a copper connector/ adapter/

Yes this would work, simple to execute. No need for a compression fitting, I see hose size adapters in various sizes all the time at the auto parts store, usually in the "Help" section. A straight-thru section of tubing with different OD sizes either side (ex. 1/2" OD one side, 3/4" OD other side). Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get exact exact sizes, as the rubber hoses are able to stretch or clamp down quite a bit.

Originally Posted by RedArrow

Would it be useful having some type of a valve in there?...pointing up maybe? that could be an access point for later service, if some `checkups` needed.

Can't think of any reason for this. Remember, extra valves, hose connections, clamps, etc. introduce more points for failure.

Drain about a quart into a container should be sufficient to not lose any when replacing that hose. Later you can filter it (I use easily available coffee machine filters) and re-add it.

Trapped air bubble is not the big problem you're making it out to be. Here's how to avoid it:
When filling coolant system, leave the hose disconnected from that IP coldsart waxstat housing (the upper fitting).
Fill coolant system. When coolant flows from the housing fitting connect and secure the hose.
Continue to fill the coolant system until full.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

A straight-thru section of tubing with different OD sizes either side (ex. 1/2" OD one side, 3/4" OD other side). Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get exact exact sizes, as the rubber hoses are able to stretch or clamp down quite a bit.

Not yet found the right thing; having removed the failed hose for measuring i figured that heater hose size 1/2 InnerDiameter works at cold start device side, 3/4 hose ID size works right at upper rad hose. Some adapter will be fabricated/found asap.I`ll ask v8 to sell me one of his used ones too.

Originally Posted by ngoma

Remember, extra valves, hose connections, clamps, etc. introduce more points for failure.

Very true, I completely agree. No need for extra junk. We dont need complicated things in these ancient machines. Thanks God the Only computer in it is my laptop.

I removed the hose, measured both ends, bought heater hoses 1/2 and 3/4, tried them on, next step is getting some adapter (to connect them at middle) which I couldn`t locate today anywhere, car shops and plumbing supply stores didn`t have the right one. Unbelievable it is. Air out, old hose back, hunt continues.
Hose is hard at the end, also cracked a bit under clamp, rusty, scratched, has a hole that leaks. Nipple at CS device has some missing edge which is not a big deal I think. Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale.
ps. I`d prefer a 1-piece adapter, not a soldered copper thing. joke: to avoid the extra weight (uglyness) of the clamps added so car can run faster.
ps.2. i`m thinking if it works to have a 2or3inch copper piece pushed into the smaller diameter hose (1/2), than pushing this whole thing into bigger 3/4 ID hose then put 2 quality clamps on. Basically rubber-on-rubber type of connection with an inside stabilizer copper hose that would not let it collapse when clamps are tightened. IDK. might be a funny looking risky setup, never did it before on any of our diesels. Anybody does/did same thing before?see picts 2 posts above.

Also `bothers me` that the direction of flow there is `fat to thin`. (towards CS device)

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale.

Granular green on the outside of the fittings is most likely dried antifreeze coolant. It may have been seeping from there. Otherwise, you'll want to investigate any other apparent corrosion. Change antifreeze at recommended intervals; don't use well water or hard water (or mineral water); check engine grounding connections & wires (that one behind the A/C compressor/ power steering pump is susceptible to corrosion) and do a check for electrolysis.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Granular green on the outside of the fittings is most likely dried antifreeze coolant. It may have been seeping from there. Otherwise, you'll want to investigate any other apparent corrosion. Change antifreeze at recommended intervals; don't use well water or hard water (or mineral water); check engine grounding connections & wires (that one behind the A/C compressor/ power steering pump is susceptible to corrosion) and do a check for electrolysis.

Yes, I will, last one is a great idea, informative website. I cant recall any coolant leaks there but a few drops at a `T` somewhere near/under VacuumPump long ago, caused by a rusty clamp down there...

I use Zerex G-05 only. If I had to add fluid for some rare reason, I used distilled water only, not mineral or purified etc junks. I`ll want coolant replaced soon (i wish i had more time), radiator flushed and one more thing that`s important. As far as I remember, PO told me that rear hose behind block hasn`t been replaced when engine was out so I`ll have a posting about that when time comes...

I`ll check all ground points, thanks, although that has been done pretty well when my ignition switch became an angry b.tch, so I got stranded in a hotel bsmt in Daytona Beach, FL Not bad...and I had to analyze lots of things to see electric issues , if any. A full disassembly of ign switch later solved the problem. WD40 & dashboard shine was found inside it. (yes, me)
So grounds are ok but will check again. Removed&Cleaned them that time...

Most of the time my alternator is pushing out 14-15V , I mean, that`s what I always see on instrument cluster gauge. Needle Might be at too high. Why?* idk. I like the idea of that coolant sponge that absorbs the extra. *Battery might be shit? Car starts always for the very first crank, even in -20celsius. I`ll check battery too.

[RedArrow]

Above mentioned heater hose started dripping coolant constantly (when engine running)...so...Homemade solution got installed today, I hope it`s not too `jerry-built`... (?)
Thicker hose (upper radiator hose side) is 3/4 ID, thinner hose (coldstart device side) is 1/2 ID. They are connected at middle by a copper junction (3/4 to 1/2 1-piece copper reducer used with 1.5 inch of 1/2 pipe soldered into it.
Swedish ABA clamps... BUT THE PIPES are totally straight&smooth--> I know the best would be to ROLL BEAD the tube!!
RIGHT? (creating an edge so hoses wouldn`t have any chance of sliding off)

[RedArrow]

Killing time, fixing/rerouting some wiring, cleaning under hood, fixing-installing the never-worked-before `engine light`, then testing how nicely it works; I look down-->what do I see?
Picture #4. Yes, the rear hose, covered in greasy poo. Ugly?Yes. Dangerous? What?!=yes!! Hose in Bad cond?idk yet.
Searching for reasons, Thinking I`m in need of a new valve cover gasket, etc, checking inj.pump to see any leaks etc, I explored another issue that also helped my d24t getting all that oily crap on it.... Pict #5.
Is that hose still available? How about our rear heater hose?
Thanks for commenting.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

...issue that helped my d24t getting all that oily crap on it.... Pict #4 and #5.
Is that hose still available?
Thanks for commenting.

Talking about hoses again...
the one that runs from valve cover towards turbo... The d24t crankcase vent hose became very brittle, it cracked at both ends. After taking a pict, I got rid of it &installed a heater hose as a temp fix, `cause thanks to this crappy hose: the passenger side of engine always got oily mess on it... from underneath the upper clamp...oil escaped, travelled back by the side of valve cover, then down, reaching near rear belt, rear coolant hose etc, leaving oily residue on&around manifold etc.
I`m trying to find the correct part number so I`ll be able to order it. Any info where to order? THX
ps.
hose was put on plastic joint with metal piece being INSIDE the hose.
See picture #4 & #5 in posting #11.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

I know the best would be to ROLL BEAD the tube!!
RIGHT? (creating an edge so hoses wouldn`t have any chance of sliding off)

Good work. Should be OK. Max coolant pressure is 75kPa (less than 11 PSI) if you're using the black expansion tank cap. Retighten the hose clamps when it is hot and you're good to go.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Good work. Should be OK. Max coolant pressure is 75kPa (less than 11 PSI) if you're using the black expansion tank cap. Retighten the hose clamps when it is hot and you're good to go.

Yes, I have the black one.

Since the fix I drove over 3000 miles and no issues.

The later mentioned `vent hose` (from valve cover towards turbo) deteriorated a lot, so I used a thick-wall heater hose to replace it, temporarily.