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  #11  
Old 06-29-2010, 05:24 PM
lmwatbullrun lmwatbullrun is offline
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Default size range?

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Originally Posted by TinMan View Post
My suspicions were that the kit wasn't correct, but I wasn't positive.

Is there a specific size range for the shims that I should keep my eye out for? There are several kits on ebay that have different size shim ranges. I'm a bit like Imwatbullrun in that I like to have what I need on hand even if I might not need it for quite a while, so I may just buy myself a kit if I find one.
I have not yet adjusted the valves on my beast; that is this weekend's vehicle chore. Jason may have some insight on this as he does it for a living in addition to doing it because he likes it......
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2010, 07:06 PM
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Jason Jason is offline
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Hard to say on that, kind depends on what you took out, and if you have ground the valves or seats, or replaced the valves etc... Its really just a guess and test. Put it together and see where you are at.

Jason
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2010, 11:43 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinMan View Post
My suspicions were that the kit wasn't correct, but I wasn't positive.

Is there a specific size range for the shims that I should keep my eye out for? There are several kits on ebay that have different size shim ranges. I'm a bit like Imwatbullrun in that I like to have what I need on hand even if I might not need it for quite a while, so I may just buy myself a kit if I find one.
When I adjust the valves on higher-mileage engines I always find myself using the thinner shims. In fact several times I have run out of the thinner sizes in my shim kit and had to get more since the thinner ones are just about all I end up using. Usually, if it has been a long time since the valves were last adjusted and the head has never been rebuilt, you will be taking out shims that are in the 3.55-3.80 range and putting in shims that are more in the 3.25-3.65 range.

If you are getting a kit I would make sure you have at least 2 or 3 of every size between 3.25 and 3.75 for your older engine. You will not need anything above 3.80 unless you are building a fresh head.

Remember that if you don't have exactly the right shim, or your measurements are right between two shim thickness increments, always err on the looser side (i.e. a thinner shim). A little too loose is better than a little too tight.
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2010, 10:20 AM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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v8volvo, would you by chance be willing to measure the length of the Volvo gauge holder tool you have? I'm emailing back and forth with a seller on ebay to find out if an indicator holder set he sells is long enough to work with the D24T. I'm hoping it is long enough so I don't have to pay $80 to get one from the Volvo dealer.

Thanks!
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  #15  
Old 07-12-2010, 11:03 AM
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Jason Jason is offline
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The pump is no different than whats on the 4cyl 1.6 diesel. If the holder and dial indicator is supposed to work on the 1.6, it will work on the 2.4 as well. The head just has a couple extra injector lines comming out, otherwise (for the most part) its the same thing.

Jason
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SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #16  
Old 07-12-2010, 12:30 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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A holder designed to work on the 1.6 can be used on a D24T, but the longer Volvo one is better because you don't have to remove the vacuum pump to use it (the extra length extends the dial indicator far enough forward that they don't interfere with each other). If you already have a holder for a 1.6 you can use that, but if you are going to buy a new holder anyway, I would try to get the longer one since it really is much easier to use. Removing the vac pump isn't a horrible chore but it's extra work, it is messy and oily and always gets motor oil dumped on the heater hoses below, and you risk the vac pump drive plunger escaping and then you have to take extra time and care to make sure you don't re-install it facing the wrong way (which can wreck the camshaft)... plus you may disturb the seal and then have to deal with replacing that.

The long one should not be too hard to find, since it was used on 2.0L Audis as well (they have the same setup as a D24/T). You might try calling Baum Tools in Florida, they are a VW tool supplier and I'm sure they will be able to sell you the longer tool for a good price. Just tell then you need one for an Audi and they will know what you're talking about.
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  #17  
Old 07-12-2010, 04:46 PM
lmwatbullrun lmwatbullrun is offline
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Default have a short one I borrowed from a VW dieselhead friend-

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
A holder designed to work on the 1.6 can be used on a D24T, but the longer Volvo one is better because you don't have to remove the vacuum pump to use it (the extra length extends the dial indicator far enough forward that they don't interfere with each other). If you already have a holder for a 1.6 you can use that, but if you are going to buy a new holder anyway, I would try to get the longer one since it really is much easier to use. Removing the vac pump isn't a horrible chore but it's extra work, it is messy and oily and always gets motor oil dumped on the heater hoses below, and you risk the vac pump drive plunger escaping and then you have to take extra time and care to make sure you don't re-install it facing the wrong way (which can wreck the camshaft)... plus you may disturb the seal and then have to deal with replacing that.

The long one should not be too hard to find, since it was used on 2.0L Audis as well (they have the same setup as a D24/T). You might try calling Baum Tools in Florida, they are a VW tool supplier and I'm sure they will be able to sell you the longer tool for a good price. Just tell then you need one for an Audi and they will know what you're talking about.
And it works just fine with the pump in place. All I did was loosen the clamp holding the dial indicator to the shaft that screws in, and let the indicator rotate freely as I screwed the shaft in. When I had the indicator shaft seated properly, I adjusted the position so the indicator was reading properly, and tightened it down. Did have to bend over a bit to read the dial, as it was a bit past vertical, but that was not a problem for me. Did not have to remove the vac pump at all. And did not have to buy an $60 dollar indicator. (You'd never know my ancestors were Scottish, would you?)
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