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Don't fix it with thin walled aluminum pipe, that will be a possible corrosion issue long term. Those pipes are suitable for air only, not coolant. Since this hose goes from the IP to the head, stiffness isn't a concern so you can replace it with stiffer than stock hose or pipe.
If I were you, I would just get a brass or copper size adapter that adapts from the size on one end of the hose to the other. Then you can run regular off the shelf coolant hose from any auto parts store. You could solder this yourself from copper pipe fittings, or buy one at most industrial hose supply stores. In the short term, you can make the hose survive until you get a replacement going by wrapping it in a layer of "hose repair tape" as sold in truck stops, then wrap diagonally in two directions with dental floss, and then wrap again with a layer of hose repair tape. I've done this on hoses before, and suspect even the worst hoses would survive months of normal use with this treatment. I never drive an old diesel anywhere without this tape and dental floss in the glove box. Another option is to just remove the cold start device and cap off it's hoses. I don't know how well that would work in your climate, but in warmer areas I think it would be fine.
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'84 760 D24T/M46 '86 Isuzu Trooper Turbo Diesel '01 VW Golf TDI Last edited by casioqv; 08-19-2014 at 09:32 AM. |
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I have a handful of good used hoses -- that would probably be your quickest option. Send a PM if that would be of interest to you.
This piece is NLA from Volvo, unfortunately, but also not hard to make your own if needed, as casioqv suggested.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
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I do not know sizes either, could one of you measure inner&outer diameters at both ends of hose, please? (Or, at the point where it goes onto) I`d have to remove &measure myself but I wouldn`t get car off the road until I`m ready for the fix (time&proper hoses---measurements needed). Also, I got worried some about those air pocket in cooling system issues I was reading a lot about, here on the forum. Isn`t this leak (near, or...) at the highest point of the entire cooling system?... that suggests to me that it might be a `lucky spot` to have a hole at, therefore it might not be `so` rocket science to get it off, putting in new unit (2hoses with an adapter (or a T) between them) without losing much coolant, maybe, then using your best d24t-pro way/method to get all air out, guys (suggestions welcome!) Probably I should do a flush too but let`s deal with 1 issue at a time. I didn`t have overheating at all, just noticed that ugly hose , the clamp eating into it , plus now it`s leaking. Why am I thinking that easiest way would be to get hoses onto each end, let them meet at middle where u would see either a compression fitting or a copper connector/ adapter/reduced/splicer Would it be useful having some type of a valve in there?...pointing up maybe? that could be an access point for later service, if some `checkups` needed. Interestingly, I found a picture of a TD volvo, called SoDak, on a forum, there I saw a pic showing same hose being home made, 3sections joined by `50lbs of clamps` or a T? ...looks it`s been functioning properly &holding on safely. Comments needed . Thanks. Quote:
Last edited by RedArrow; 09-02-2014 at 04:46 PM. Reason: typed incorrectly |
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Size matters
Fantastic! Thank you in advance. Who else would have NLA brickparts at home?V8volvo! Thank you for offering the part! I`ll buy one of them I think.
would you measure inner diameters of the hose please? (I have to visit H0meDep0t anyways, I`ll still look around a bit there ) Solution or not? to push them together according to picture? using a copper pipe inside smaller id hose. ? Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 08:39 PM. Reason: added pictures |
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Drain about a quart into a container should be sufficient to not lose any when replacing that hose. Later you can filter it (I use easily available coffee machine filters) and re-add it. Trapped air bubble is not the big problem you're making it out to be. Here's how to avoid it: When filling coolant system, leave the hose disconnected from that IP coldsart waxstat housing (the upper fitting). Fill coolant system. When coolant flows from the housing fitting connect and secure the hose. Continue to fill the coolant system until full.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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NLA Volvo hose 1257446
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I removed the hose, measured both ends, bought heater hoses 1/2 and 3/4, tried them on, next step is getting some adapter (to connect them at middle) which I couldn`t locate today anywhere, car shops and plumbing supply stores didn`t have the right one. Unbelievable it is. Air out, old hose back, hunt continues. Hose is hard at the end, also cracked a bit under clamp, rusty, scratched, has a hole that leaks. Nipple at CS device has some missing edge which is not a big deal I think. Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale. ps. I`d prefer a 1-piece adapter, not a soldered copper thing. joke: to avoid the extra weight (uglyness) of the clamps added so car can run faster. ps.2. i`m thinking if it works to have a 2or3inch copper piece pushed into the smaller diameter hose (1/2), than pushing this whole thing into bigger 3/4 ID hose then put 2 quality clamps on. Basically rubber-on-rubber type of connection with an inside stabilizer copper hose that would not let it collapse when clamps are tightened. IDK. might be a funny looking risky setup, never did it before on any of our diesels. Anybody does/did same thing before?see picts 2 posts above. Also `bothers me` that the direction of flow there is `fat to thin`. (towards CS device) Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 08:48 PM. |
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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coolant system tricks
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I use Zerex G-05 only. If I had to add fluid for some rare reason, I used distilled water only, not mineral or purified etc junks. I`ll want coolant replaced soon (i wish i had more time), radiator flushed and one more thing that`s important. As far as I remember, PO told me that rear hose behind block hasn`t been replaced when engine was out so I`ll have a posting about that when time comes... I`ll check all ground points, thanks, although that has been done pretty well when my ignition switch became an angry b.tch, so I got stranded in a hotel bsmt in Daytona Beach, FL Not bad...and I had to analyze lots of things to see electric issues , if any. A full disassembly of ign switch later solved the problem. WD40 & dashboard shine was found inside it. (yes, me) So grounds are ok but will check again. Removed&Cleaned them that time... Most of the time my alternator is pushing out 14-15V , I mean, that`s what I always see on instrument cluster gauge. Needle Might be at too high. Why?* idk. I like the idea of that coolant sponge that absorbs the extra. *Battery might be shit? Car starts always for the very first crank, even in -20celsius. I`ll check battery too. Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 09:30 PM. |
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Lucky me I saw what`s happening.
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While waiting for car to warm up& thermostat to open so I can get air` out (after installing my jerry-built hose junction) , I experienced that the direction of flow of Zerex is towards the ip/coldstart device, of course. Thank you forumers for all of your ideas. I hope my posting helps other brickers dealing with d24/d24t issues, so we can save many for later generations. )) My before-and-after trip `hood-opening rituals` saved my @s$ again. And the car. Get out there and check things under hood.I mean, constantly. You have a 20+ y old BRiCK! )) Last edited by RedArrow; 09-01-2014 at 05:14 AM. |
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20 years old? I wish! You're off by about 15 years!
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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