#31
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Quote:
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Last edited by 745 TurboGreasel; 07-16-2014 at 12:06 PM. |
#32
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OK figured the mounting out. Now on to the timing. Is there reason I can't just use a magnetic base for the dial indicator, rather than the special adapters that thread into the pump?
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#33
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rear timing belt
well i guess i can use the mag base because it seems to be working. any tricks for installing the rear timing belt without removing the cam sprocket? thanks
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#34
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OK, Thanks, good to know.
IP belt replacement w/o removing camshaft pulley? Preferred method for timing IP calls for loosening the camshaft pulley to rotate it on the camshaft. That's at least halfway towards removing the pulley (to R/R the belt). But I guess you could try loosening the IP mounting bracket bolts to the block, and raising the IP/mount to slacken the belt enough to remove it. Probably a good idea to at least recheck the timing after retensioning.
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#35
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I was hoping to not have to loosen the rear cam sprocket as I don't have the holding tool. I have read through several posts regarding IP timing, and am having some issues.
to summarize: - I removed the IP and had it rebuilt at a local shop - I have re-installed it and am attempting to time it - I have installed a dial indicator with a 6" extension. I am using a mag base to the pump bracket. I did not pull the vacuum pump, but it sounds like that is the easiest way to verify the engine is at #1 TDC. Questions: - When I rotate the pump thru a full turn, I only get .06 (1.5mm) total travel. Is that enough? (I am right in the middle of my indicator, and it has an inch of travel) - As I rotate the pump toward its 'high point', it becomes difficult to rotate, then it 'releases' to a 'low' spot. In fact it is hard to keep the initial alignment with the marks on the bracket. Is that normal? - Following the green book, I align, back off to find zero, then align and lock. I read .023 (.58 mm). Too low, correct? Then what? The book says to install the belt and loosen the cam sprocket and rotate to the desired setting, but how if the pump is locked at this point? Sorry for all the basic questions, but this is new to me and I'm trying to get this done for my daughter before school starts. Thanks! Bill in AZ |
#36
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#37
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No, the engine was professionally rebuilt before I bought it and I assumed that everything was adjusted. Bad move? It ran pretty smooth once I got it running, but it started stalling, and by process of elimination we decided the pump needed to be rebuilt.
Since it sat for a while in the sun, I have changed a lot of the gaskets including the VC. If I pull it to check the cams, do I need to replace the gasket again? |
#38
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Most professionals working on these engines, or even a regular VW diesel have no idea what they are trying to do. that's before they try to do something cheaper, faster, or easier. Mainly it's easiest to check when you already have the lid off.
The 1 piece gaskets are pretty reusable, the cork ones just suck. |
#39
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ok pulled the VCG and checked the valves. Turns out I was 180 out for #1 TDC ha ha. All valve clearances came in around .009 intake and .017 exhaust, so it looks like they were set properly. And yes I had purchased the cork gasket.
I finally got the pump timed. I locked the pump pulley and rotated the housing until I get .035". It was here where the correct 5194 tool is better than the mag base because it is hard not to disrupt the indicator when loosening one of the pump mounting bolts, I had to re-zero a few times. Tomorrow I will start to connect everything and then we can see if it worked! thanks so much for the help. |
#40
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If there is blood on the car, it will work
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