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I have a handful of good used hoses -- that would probably be your quickest option. Send a PM if that would be of interest to you.
This piece is NLA from Volvo, unfortunately, but also not hard to make your own if needed, as casioqv suggested.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#2
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I do not know sizes either, could one of you measure inner&outer diameters at both ends of hose, please? (Or, at the point where it goes onto) I`d have to remove &measure myself but I wouldn`t get car off the road until I`m ready for the fix (time&proper hoses---measurements needed). Also, I got worried some about those air pocket in cooling system issues I was reading a lot about, here on the forum. Isn`t this leak (near, or...) at the highest point of the entire cooling system?... that suggests to me that it might be a `lucky spot` to have a hole at, therefore it might not be `so` rocket science to get it off, putting in new unit (2hoses with an adapter (or a T) between them) without losing much coolant, maybe, then using your best d24t-pro way/method to get all air out, guys (suggestions welcome!) Probably I should do a flush too but let`s deal with 1 issue at a time. I didn`t have overheating at all, just noticed that ugly hose , the clamp eating into it , plus now it`s leaking. Why am I thinking that easiest way would be to get hoses onto each end, let them meet at middle where u would see either a compression fitting or a copper connector/ adapter/reduced/splicer Would it be useful having some type of a valve in there?...pointing up maybe? that could be an access point for later service, if some `checkups` needed. Interestingly, I found a picture of a TD volvo, called SoDak, on a forum, there I saw a pic showing same hose being home made, 3sections joined by `50lbs of clamps` or a T? ...looks it`s been functioning properly &holding on safely. Comments needed . Thanks. Quote:
Last edited by RedArrow; 09-02-2014 at 04:46 PM. Reason: typed incorrectly |
#3
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Size matters
Fantastic! Thank you in advance. Who else would have NLA brickparts at home?V8volvo! Thank you for offering the part! I`ll buy one of them I think.
would you measure inner diameters of the hose please? (I have to visit H0meDep0t anyways, I`ll still look around a bit there ) Solution or not? to push them together according to picture? using a copper pipe inside smaller id hose. ? Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 08:39 PM. Reason: added pictures |
#4
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Drain about a quart into a container should be sufficient to not lose any when replacing that hose. Later you can filter it (I use easily available coffee machine filters) and re-add it. Trapped air bubble is not the big problem you're making it out to be. Here's how to avoid it: When filling coolant system, leave the hose disconnected from that IP coldsart waxstat housing (the upper fitting). Fill coolant system. When coolant flows from the housing fitting connect and secure the hose. Continue to fill the coolant system until full.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#5
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NLA Volvo hose 1257446
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I removed the hose, measured both ends, bought heater hoses 1/2 and 3/4, tried them on, next step is getting some adapter (to connect them at middle) which I couldn`t locate today anywhere, car shops and plumbing supply stores didn`t have the right one. Unbelievable it is. Air out, old hose back, hunt continues. Hose is hard at the end, also cracked a bit under clamp, rusty, scratched, has a hole that leaks. Nipple at CS device has some missing edge which is not a big deal I think. Both nipples were covered with hard, thick residue that looks like limescale. ps. I`d prefer a 1-piece adapter, not a soldered copper thing. joke: to avoid the extra weight (uglyness) of the clamps added so car can run faster. ps.2. i`m thinking if it works to have a 2or3inch copper piece pushed into the smaller diameter hose (1/2), than pushing this whole thing into bigger 3/4 ID hose then put 2 quality clamps on. Basically rubber-on-rubber type of connection with an inside stabilizer copper hose that would not let it collapse when clamps are tightened. IDK. might be a funny looking risky setup, never did it before on any of our diesels. Anybody does/did same thing before?see picts 2 posts above. Also `bothers me` that the direction of flow there is `fat to thin`. (towards CS device) Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 08:48 PM. |
#6
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#7
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coolant system tricks
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I use Zerex G-05 only. If I had to add fluid for some rare reason, I used distilled water only, not mineral or purified etc junks. I`ll want coolant replaced soon (i wish i had more time), radiator flushed and one more thing that`s important. As far as I remember, PO told me that rear hose behind block hasn`t been replaced when engine was out so I`ll have a posting about that when time comes... I`ll check all ground points, thanks, although that has been done pretty well when my ignition switch became an angry b.tch, so I got stranded in a hotel bsmt in Daytona Beach, FL Not bad...and I had to analyze lots of things to see electric issues , if any. A full disassembly of ign switch later solved the problem. WD40 & dashboard shine was found inside it. (yes, me) So grounds are ok but will check again. Removed&Cleaned them that time... Most of the time my alternator is pushing out 14-15V , I mean, that`s what I always see on instrument cluster gauge. Needle Might be at too high. Why?* idk. I like the idea of that coolant sponge that absorbs the extra. *Battery might be shit? Car starts always for the very first crank, even in -20celsius. I`ll check battery too. Last edited by RedArrow; 08-24-2014 at 09:30 PM. |
#8
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Volvo 1257466 NLA heater hose
Above mentioned heater hose started dripping coolant constantly (when engine running)...so...Homemade solution got installed today, I hope it`s not too `jerry-built`... (?)
Thicker hose (upper radiator hose side) is 3/4 ID, thinner hose (coldstart device side) is 1/2 ID. They are connected at middle by a copper junction (3/4 to 1/2 1-piece copper reducer used with 1.5 inch of 1/2 pipe soldered into it. Swedish ABA clamps... BUT THE PIPES are totally straight&smooth--> I know the best would be to ROLL BEAD the tube!! RIGHT? (creating an edge so hoses wouldn`t have any chance of sliding off) Last edited by RedArrow; 07-20-2015 at 04:43 PM. |
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