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  #51  
Old 08-14-2010, 01:10 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Location: houston tx
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fixed my glowplug issue... the car was sending a constant signal to the relay to stay on... forever, so I put in my own switch and indicator to bypass it all... while i was down there, i gutted everything behind the dash that was related to being comfortable lol.

here is how the switch came out: I used an old control panel switch I pulled from a factory scrap job a long time ago.

off

on
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  #52  
Old 08-16-2010, 03:46 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Pulled the thermostat out and removed its guts, then put it back in place.

that should fix my getting-hot-fast problem... ill replace it with a lower temp when i move.

unfortunately the HG is still rather blown... so it sprays water like a fire-hydrant under boost lol, but its sure scurries down the road in a hurry, makes me wonder what itll be like when the HG is back to normal.
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  #53  
Old 08-19-2010, 03:21 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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just cut my springs.. did 2.5 coils and it rides perfect.. IMO it can go lower but the cross-member might start to drag =( ill post pics when that giant ball of fire begins to show its ugly face
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  #54  
Old 08-19-2010, 04:35 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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now I need some spacers
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  #55  
Old 08-19-2010, 04:41 AM
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Jason Jason is offline
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Nice, the stance is just right.

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #56  
Old 08-20-2010, 06:09 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
Nice, the stance is just right.

Jason
IMO it needs to be lower.. but thats just how i like things... here is my 83 corolla, ive pulled the expensive suspension off for storage for now, but heres a pic of when I had it "slammed" which is how Id like the volvo to be eventually...




the kit:
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  #57  
Old 03-09-2011, 03:37 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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soo, im about to head home "houston from NC" and ive collected some goodies for the engine! while I was taking apart some medical lasers, I came across 2 radiators in a few units that were HUGE! i plan on making a manifold for em and replacing the one I have now... itll measure 16x29 and about 5" thick...

oh, and I found some 5" dia stainless pipe for a new stack...
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  #58  
Old 03-12-2011, 11:16 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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was working on my cooling system for the diesel... the water lines connecting the cores in the radiator are filled with stainless spring shit to keep them open and not collapsed... unfortunately they are causing alot of drag on the water.. which is kinda good from a coolant stand point however just 1 pump and a filter only push 1.7GPM... when the pump is capable of 4.4 grrrrrr, so I added another pump in series and itll do 3.5gpm which will work... however now my silicone hoses near the first stage are bulging at 16psi lol.... however I have the radiator configured so the water has to take a 60 ft detour "actually calculated" to get back to the pump lol... this is the longest possible and will displace the most heat...

was thinking of using 1 pump per core... which would release most of the stress on the first half of the hoses...
and ill still be able to keep the configuration....

more testing tomorrow with hot water to determine configuration settings... maybe I can configure bypass solenoids for different driving conditions... day to day driving stays on 1 pump and 1 core, but if the engine reaches a heat limit of 185 it kicks on another pump and flips the cores into series to ULTIMATE COOLING POWER!!!!

looks like this:
1 pump with filter

2 pumps without filter "since filter didnt really restrict the flow"
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  #59  
Old 03-14-2011, 05:30 AM
Ruby Rhod Ruby Rhod is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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3.5gm is VERY low for the engine. The water pump moves well over 10gpm.
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  #60  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:36 PM
casioqv casioqv is offline
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I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, along with the tropical clutch. With the tropical clutch, you'll get better cooling than even an electric fan conversion.

Also, no radiator can keep the motor cool if you have a blown head gasket...
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