Head gasket replacement

[745 TurboGreasel]

Originally Posted by genegr

If I get the flywheel set on the mark and number one at top dead center, mark the belts and pulleys will I be able to unbolt/bolt everything(fuel pump) back on and get it to run? \

Your odds wold be very bad, but if you have great deal of skill and experience that would help some.

[genegr]

The vacuum pump seems to be in the way of most work, injector and fuel pump work. Is there any tricks to removing and reinstalling it? Not very many post on here related to it.

Thanks

[Goteborg Vapenfabrik]

Its held onto the head by two fasteners and is under spring tension, loosening the top and bottom fasteners at equal rates will keep the vacuum pump from getting jammed or damaged, the lower fastener is difficult to see, also the plunger is a slide fit and can fall out. You can have it off in a few minutes.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by genegr

The vacuum pump seems to be in the way of most work, injector and fuel pump work. Is there any tricks to removing and reinstalling it? Not very many post on here related to it.

So sorry the search function here did not turn this up for you:
http://d24t.com/showpost.php?p=8492&postcount=13

[genegr]

Thanks everyone for your help. Getting the tools together and I will check the settings and try a couple of valve adjustments first to get the hang of it.

[genegr]

I thought I read on here somewhere to replace the head bolts with studs. Was that correct and are these available from the dealer (Volvo or VW)or aftermarket?

[anders]

I never put the TTY bolts back in, used or new. I always use studs when I have the head off, heck I have installed studs in three engines without any reason other then insurance.

ARP is the brand I use, I believe there is also race ware?
If your interested in studs I can supply you a set of ARP's for $285.

[monkeh]

Regarding the vac pump, setting engine to tdc helps get it back on. Taking it off, at tdc prevents the inner spring launching the pump across the engine bay.