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  #1  
Old 10-01-2014, 07:44 PM
Volvoguru850r Volvoguru850r is offline
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Default Performance/aftermarket oil cooler.

Mine went out, I could go back with a factory piece I suppose. The VW 4 cylinder diesel oil cooler looks very similar. Does it interchange?

I would really like to do away with the factory setup and do a aftermarket oil to water cooler. How much does it really cool the engine oil temperature?

Also if I did a aftermarket oil cooler I'm not sure how I would plumb the oil lines to me aftermarket cooler.

If you have any pics of your setup, I would love to see it!
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2014, 08:08 PM
R.Mojica R.Mojica is offline
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I plan to do away with my oem one and delete the coolant portion and use a regualr oil cooler maybe use the spare 760 turbo oil cooler I have.
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Old 11-25-2014, 11:40 PM
Fridgewagon Fridgewagon is offline
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B280 and 92+ Volvo 7/9 4cylinder redblock gas cars use a lovely copper cooler that I've never ever seen fail. I just use those. Water/oil heat exchanger. Fixed many Hitler's revenge (VW) cars gas or diesel with those. Outlets are straight instead of slightly angled, but fit has generally been fine.

Half the time with a VW people think it's that thing mixing oil/water when it really needs an HG though.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:59 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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You can also adapt a sandwich plate from an earlier gasser Volvo turbo that allows you to mount an external air-to-oil cooler. Several theoretical advantages to this, including reduced heat rejection to the cooling system when the oil is hot and increased coolant flow thru the rad. (I say theoretical because nobody [to my knowledge] has attempted to specifically isolate and quantify the effects of those changes on cooling performance so far, although anecdotally, the last car I did this to went up I-70 from Denver on a hot day with foot to the floor and temp gauge didn't move -- a fairly difficult trick for these units usually, but that car had a fresh rad and other work as well.)

The gasser oil-air setup requires using the threaded nipple from the gasser motor in the diesel's oil filter mount extension in order to make the pieces fit together, since the coolant-oil sandwich plate from the diesel is thicker, and then you need custom hoses and you have to mount the cooler matrix somewhere. And the other issue with the gasser sandwich plate is that it incorporates a thermostat that fails in the cold position, in which case the cooler is bypassed and the setup becomes functionally useless... I just disabled the tstat on that particular car and set it up for full flow all the time, since the car was heading to live in TX, but in a cooler climate you'd want to have some kind of thermostatic control over oil temp rather than running max cooling all the time. The oil-water exchanger is nice in that sense, despite its (relatively slight) risks. They're the same as what's used on all kinds of different VWs and available brand new for cheap if it's really what's wrong. Or retrofit something nicer if you're inspired.

As Fridgewagon said, though, the truth is that headgaskets in these motors have a higher failure rate than the oil cooler sandwiches do. If you pull the cooler off, pressure-test it before you conclude that it's the cause of your issue. If there's oil in the water, better odds that you'll be needing to have the head off in the end.
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Last edited by v8volvo; 12-01-2014 at 10:32 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2014, 06:46 PM
Volvoguru850r Volvoguru850r is offline
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I'm not getting water in the oil for 100% sure. They simply caped off the hose at the back of the engine and the one coming off the t stat housing
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:32 PM
Fridgewagon Fridgewagon is offline
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I've replaced a good few of the Hitler's Revenge (VW) heat exchangers with the Volvo Gas coppery one instead of that low grade aluminum-foil piece of inferior VW crap on VW cars. Never a problem again.

I've never had the T-stat fail in the volvo Air-oil one. You must have gotten a real real goopy one! They mostly just work and work in clean oil and have rock solid oil temps in most of the turbo volvos I've ever driven all over the place hot or cold towing or not and seem to work fine. But it is year 30 for many of those, so maybe they all just expired?

Earlier 240T are 75*C and later are 95*C as well a 700T. 240T is CI FI with no coolant temp sensor, and it only has to enrich for ~2mins max on the warm up regulator, or about as long as it takes for the intake valves to get warm (injectors are variable nozzles aimed at the back of the intake valves after all).

I like the oil-water heat exchanger well enough. Takes forever for the oil to heat up in N/A cars (gas or Diesel, but N/A diesel even worse), and given these things don't do well with thick oil anyway in the winter, without a block heater, even with some 5w-40 Delo Synthetic (a great diesel oil), or something similarly appropriate (Mobil 0w-40 diesel or something), it's still having to pump that stuff around cold for a very long time. Turbo might be different story, turbo I'd consider adding the air-oil setrab cooler (gas volvo) or a pair of them, but will probably just use the B280/92+ gas volvo update and pitch one more piece of VW junk from it when/where I can and quit there, since it's easy and I don't have to have hoses done up for it or actually go to any effort.

Last edited by Fridgewagon; 12-04-2014 at 09:35 PM.
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