|
|
|
|
#1
05-16-2010, 10:07 PM
|
|||
|
|||
I was thinking since the volvo is.... nearly the oldest car ive owned "81 starlet has it beat" I wanted to put old gauges in it lol... I found this guy that has a BUNCH of oldd WW2 aircraft gauges and is selling them from 20$ to 90$ about 80% of them are in good working condition.... ammo counters compass brake speed knots etc...
 
|
|
#2
05-17-2010, 05:38 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
You need to get a fan on the radiator itself pulling through like it should have... Also, you can get an oil cooler adapter from a gas volvo engine with hose fittings on it. It will sandwhich between the oil filter and filter mount.
Jason
__________________
  Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
|
|
#3
05-17-2010, 09:12 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
thanks! videos today!
|
|
#4
05-17-2010, 08:23 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
no videos today =( i forgot... i wanted to take it on a lengthy road test, so I had to swap out the front pass. tire, remove the condenser, tighten down the leaky valve cover some more, figure out why its getting hot =(
I noticed that the engine was getting pretty hot when driving "about 3/8" from the red" so I filled the resivoir and popped the top radiator hose off and allll the water from the resiv. flowed into the radiator! freakin air bubble trapped in there. By the time i had done all this, i forgot about my camera.... fail I plan on getting an inline fill neck and re-rout the upper hose straight back and over to the engine, right now it sits up just a bit so the pump has to push the water up into the radiator =( anyone in need of a FULL ac system? hoses, condensor, pump, evaporator "if i can figure out how to remove it" my fan only works on speed 1, so i dont really use it... windows work just fine =)
|
|
#5
05-18-2010, 03:54 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
We need videos.
Does it run cool now that you got the air purged from the system? Jason
__________________
Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
|
|
#6
05-19-2010, 08:49 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
If you mark everything, and make damn sure shit don't move. You should be fine. but its easier to have the right tools. To set pump timing, and what not. There are some interesting things about these engines. like the front cam gear.. No key way to index. Its a tapered fit. and when refitting the gear the bolts torque spec is 33ftlbs.
head bolt torque 33 44 55 180degree run engine till warm 90degree run car 1000miles 90degree further. rear cam gear is 75ftlbs but you shouldn't need to remove that one. the manifolds are around 15 ~ 16ftlbs I would remove the cam shaft in order to lessen the risk of damaging the valves during removal of head. cam shaft cap nuts torque - 15ftlbs Would be a good idea to get head shaved.... but take it to a machine shop that has worked on these heads. Do not worry about the cracks between the valves. its normal. head work will probably run you around 400$ on the high side. especially if you've overheated the engine a couple times. Use new head bolts. or get ARP head studs. If you can find one, Get the metal head gasket... much better. I've done a couple head gaskets on these engines. I haven't done them the right way because the owners didn't have the money but wanted it running. So we did it the ghetto way. And so far so good. but then again. They didn't have just one head to choose from. That is if you do have a blown head gasket. I like doing the head gaskets on these engines because everyone else is like "What the hell?? how do you do this? " I say its easy watch this...
__________________
Redblocks are fun and easy but Greenblocks take skill. '79 245 with D24TIC + M47
|
|
#7
05-20-2010, 06:32 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I drilled a hole in the pipe connecting the radiator to the engine to vent the boost gases "if any" took it out and got it warm "taking it easy for once" then I did a HARD 2nd pull to 20psi, that fitting looked like a waterhose on full blast! lol, theres no doubt that the HG is blown to bits, but it still pulls good under boost lol... im scared to death of that pump! im probably just going to keep everything together, mark the front timing belt top and bottom, take it apart, clean the hell out of the head and block, clean the pistons free of any rediculous buildup and smash it all back together! i got to looking around on google... who makes a good stainless HG? and any idea what the head stud's measure? im gonna have to price all this out =/ damn, ive gotta spend money now, shit 
|
|
#8
05-19-2010, 09:33 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
weaksauce video, but you can see at the first of the video where the temp gauge usually sits =( then later on in the 4th gear pull, you can hear the clutch slipping like banana's
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wga2NFuHbR4
|
|
#9
05-20-2010, 07:02 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
|
|
#10
05-20-2010, 09:34 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The only place that has the stainless head gasket is volvo. Tasca used to carry them, but upon calling them, they only had one headgasket in stock, and the guy had no way to verify if it indeed was a steel one or a fiber. After the one was sold, he said the number was comming up as permanent back order or pretty much NLA. If you can get a steel gasket through a volvo dealer, that should be fine with new head bolts. Otherwise, you will probably want to do arp head studs if you plan to really run it hard. You could do both but thats overkill. ARP studs have held 40lbs of boost on a 3 notch standard head gasket.
Jason
__________________
Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
|
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
