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Old 06-12-2010, 01:16 PM
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Jason Jason is offline
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Default World Class T-5 swap "how to" w/pics!

Well, I had a post going detailing the T-5 swap, and while trying to delete some clutter and move it over to the performance section and make it into a sticky, I deleted the whole damn thing!

First things first: The swap will require above average mechanical skills, some fab work, you'll need a welder, and machine work is required if you use the adapter I used. There is one available that doesn't require machining of the bellhousing, but it cost $125 more than the one I used... That pretty much comes down to whether or not you have access to a machine shop, or a friend that can do it for cheap.

You will notice that I titled the thread "world class" T-5 swap. There is TONS of T-5 info on the net, but the main thing to remember when buying one used or rebuilt is to get one that is a "world class" T-5. These are the later T-5s found in V-8 mustangs, some SVO turbo mustangs, etc. I found a few different sites that listed the part numbers and what the gear ratios were, along with whether it was a world class trans or not. The world class designation is a overall stronger and better trans. It has taper roller bearings, better syncros, stronger gear sets, and naturally a higher torque capacity. Since your looking at buying a old trans from the 80s to early 90s anyway, might as well wait around for one that is a world class, the difference in price is going to be minor if anything. Mine came off craigs list for $100 out of a '89 5.0 Mustang.

Here is a parts list. If you are swaping from a auto like I did, you will need to find a M46 bellhousing (make sure its for a turbo diesel if you are doing this in a 7xx series car). A flywheel, a clutch/brake pedal assembly and clutch cable as well. Since you are using the M46 bellhousing, all the volvo clutch stuff is the same, except for using a Mustang throw out bearing (or stock volvo is you get the expensive adapter that doesn't require machining).

You will have to get a clutch disc made. Clutchnet can make you a Volvo 9" disc in whatever type friction material you want, with the T-5 10 spline center. I'm using a stock TD pressure plate with a 6 puck and it has PLENTY of grip!

Mustang shifter if you trans doesn't have one (mine still had to stock one stuck to it). I would just get a stock one, I had to cut and weld mine at a different angle for it to work and not hit the console. An aftermarket shifter may not be the correct angle/shape. I doubt you will want to hack up a expensive aftermarket one. The shift distance between gears is shorter than the M46 anyway, so its kinda like getting a short throw compaired to what you started with!

Mustang slip yoke or front chunk of the drive shaft. You will have to get the front section of the driveshaft made to go from the T-5 slip yoke to the volvo u-joint. The local drive shaft shop here had a u-joint piece that was the same as the T-5 joint but made for a 2" drive shaft. That piece, and the drive shaft work (shortening, welding, balance) was only $80.

Misc metal like tubing, thick sheet metal for fabbing a mount plate, etc...


Here's where we are starting, this is my trans after being rebuilt, no bellhousing attached:



First thing that needs to be done is a shifter extension setup needs to be made. The shifter needs to be moved back almost 7" to come out in the same location as the M46. I know some guys just make a L shaped shifter that makes a sharp 90 degree turn right where it comes out of the trans, but I wanted it to have he same shifting feel. Doing it that way will make the shifter move more in an up and down motion, rather that front to back. After some measuring, I found that if I moved the shifter back the distance of the length of the shifter base plate, it was the perfect amount needed. I fabbed up a new shifter mounting plate that covers the old hole and allows the shifter to be bolted to it. The shifter's front bolt holes are not bolted to the rear holes on the trans.

For shifting, I used a pice of tubing and a old socket that was the correct ID for the plastic shift ball bushing to fit into. I popped out the plug in the back of the shift housing, and the rod sticks out through that hole. I welded everything together, making sure the rod was inline with the shift cup where the shifter ball would have engaged. If its not, the shiftmovement wont be correct.



Here we have the driveshaft, with the T-5 slip yoke piece at one end.


Adapter plate:


Adapter plate mounted to trans:


Bell housing after being machined to accept the adapter plate (5.250" hole milled into center)


Complete trans:


Clutchnet 6 puck with mustang T-5 10 spline center:


Here is the rear cross member. Its bolted to the original location, I used a couple small pieces of 1.5" tubing to support a piece of thick sheet metal that I drilled to fit the stock mustang trans mount. It has a simple mount with two long studs pointing straight down. It was easy to build the mount for since it wasn't at a odd angle like the M46 mount, and also wasn't very far away from the cross member. I used the Mustang mount as its quite a bit beefier than the M46 mount.


Shifter location, comming up through the same spot as the M46:


Starting with my auto console, I cut out the center area and glued in a universal shift boot. If you started with a M46 you won't have to screw with this type of stuff:




For the imput shaft, I left in the stock M46 pilot bearing as there was only a .028" difference in diameter. I just packed it full of grease. The T-5 has a big support bearing right at the front of the trans on the imput shaft, so it really doesn't rely on the pilot bearing like some transmissions do. So far, I haven't had any strange noises when shifting or when the clutch is in. I used a stock Mustang throw out bearing, and just slid it onto the sleave. The distance worked out just right with the stock volvo clutch fork. It just sits against it, as the mustang throw out has a big flange on the end. Normally throw out bearings are attached to the arm, but it really has no where to go when the clutch is not depressed. So far, no problems.

End result is a much stronger trans, and a real 5th gear that is pretty tall for great highway cruising. I can cruise at 65mph and only spin 2500rpm or so!

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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