Pinzgauer D24TIC

[Nevadan]

Super nice video! I really like the way that runs offroad. The engine sounds strong also. VERY NICE WORK!!

[Hecklebone]

Hi all,

Headed up into the mountains this weekend my D24T over heated. I was blowing about 19 psi and WOT in top gear. My EGT was around 1100.
I don't have my liquid/air intercooler hooked up yet. I suspect packing a lot of really hot air in, is what causes the heat to grow rapidly.
Any other thoughts on how to address it?
Other than cooling the intake air more, I can't help but think that I need to back off boost to keep the temp down.
I also blew the end cap off of the larger intake manifold. when I tear it down to hook up the intercooler - I'll have someone weld a plate over that end.

[ngoma]

What about dropping down a gear and revving it a little higher?

[Hecklebone]

Well, I was going 65 reving about 4200 rpm.

[745 TurboGreasel]

I can run 1200F pretubine all day and not overheat. If I run higher, engine heat builds till I let off. I can see peaks of 1450F which is probably a bit high, but I hope inter-cooling will help. My pump also pulls to 6K, but I generally shift well before that.
I have a fresh late 940 radiator, big exhaust, and all my factory duct work.
Factory turbo at 14 PSI 16 PSI radiator cap.
Without an EGT gauge, gearing down to 3200-3500 will usually get you there.
Having a fast response EGT gauge and driving by that seems to work well. Mine is autometer cobalt electronic.

[745 TurboGreasel]

Hecklebone I was wondering if you have any info on military maintenance schedule or service manuals for the D24T?

[Hecklebone]

Unfortunatley, no i do not. The two sets of manuals i have make no mention of PM.

[Hecklebone]

Hi All;

Here is a photo of my modified intake manifold for the Pinzgauer. I cut off bits that were rubbing on the cowling - very noisy. Shaped and welded on these plates, now it doesn't rub and make a ton of noise. I also cut off the end flange where the rubber cap went and welded it shut.

[PINZ 716]

Interesting thread

On V8volvo question about manual gearbox’s. The timing marks on a manual Pinzgauer diesel can be found by removing the rear bed floor plate to gain access to the gearbox. Then take off the gearbox vent box located on the N/S/F on the top of the gearbox 3 10MM bolts and washers.

You will have to lay on the rear floor with a light then you will see the marker which is a bit on the round side (Not as clear as the auto box one which is more of a point) you will just be able to pick out the timing marks on top of the flywheel as well its the O which you all know is the correct TDC mark

I have had a Pinzgauer running OK but a bit flat when driving it with .20 on the dial gauge.

The front crankshaft pulley with the is the location key sheared is the main cause of camshafts breaking

On the overheating I assume that you changed the water pump when doing all this work. One of the biggest problems with these vehicles is the Radiator.

Also I assume that you replaced the thermostat VW have uprated them and the drain back hole should be fitted at the top.

VW have been modified the Rad cap to the 1 bar one on thes engines.

The P80 had a lot of overheating problems and Steyr changed the set up on the P90 by fitting a larger Rad and changing some of the piping. This cured most of the problems with another small update on the P93

Have you checked your rad. I would change that after the thermostat and water pump. Even to the point of changing the Rad first after checking out that the other 2 are working..

If I get another Pinz I would strip the engine down and check over everything before running it after the problems that I have experienced with working on them.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by PINZ 716

On V8volvo question about manual gearbox’s. The timing marks on a manual Pinzgauer diesel can be found by removing the rear bed floor plate to gain access to the gearbox. Then take off the gearbox vent box located on the N/S/F on the top of the gearbox 3 10MM bolts and washers.

You will have to lay on the rear floor with a light then you will see the marker which is a bit on the round side (Not as clear as the auto box one which is more of a point) you will just be able to pick out the timing marks on top of the flywheel as well its the O which you all know is the correct TDC mark

Aha, great info, I never did figure this one out so thanks for posting this! On that 5-speed Pinz, since I couldn't find any crank reference location, I ended up just assuming -- hoping! -- that the cam was timed correctly to the crank, set the cam to TDC using the slot in the rear of the cam as the reference, then was able to get the pump in range from there... Engine started and ran well after tweaking by ear a bit, so it worked out OK but I would have been much happier to have had some numbers for baseline. Fortunately seems like the vast majority of these have autoboxes with timing bits easily visible.

Originally Posted by PINZ 716

On the overheating I assume that you changed the water pump when doing all this work.

Water pump was off when we redid the motor, but it went back on when the motor went back in, no problems with it. Have you known of a water pump failure in one of these motors that caused overheating? Unless the impeller were to spin on the shaft, I don't think the water pump could have much of a role in engine temp problems. I have had several that got noisy bearings after a couple hundred thousand miles and one that leaked, but no real catastrophic failures or impeller separations like what happens to TDIs with the plastic impeller. I did put an Italian water pump with a plastic impeller in one of mine 4 or 5 years back as an experiment but no problems yet and I don't really expect any -- impeller was a nice thick piece, not flimsy like a TDI. Most of the good pumps, though, have a press-fit cast iron impeller that I would be very surprised to see come free from the shaft. The water pumps for these seem to be pretty robust overall; on someone else's car I usually replace them just because, but on my own I have almost always reused what's already there unless there was an obvious problem and even then I tend to just put on another good used one, since they are abundant.

Originally Posted by PINZ 716

Also I assume that you replaced the thermostat VW have uprated them and the drain back hole should be fitted at the top.

Interesting. IIRC we put in a slightly cooler 80C t-stat when we had this apart, since my experience is that this is helps a lot for keeping temps stable during high-load operation. Do you have any further info about the t-stat you're describing? Almost all of the thermostats I have used for these motors have come without an air bleed valve, including ones sold at the Volvo dealer - which makes reasonable sense given the thermostat's location, and the times I have drilled a hole in t-stats that didn't have them I have noticed no difference in ease of burping the system or cooling performance so I gave that up. However, it sounds like the tstat you are mentioning from VAG has some changes, maybe including a bleed hole? Do you remember what temp it was rated for?

Would be great to know more, especially if you have a part #... if VAG/Steyr made changes it will be interesting to know what those were and see what effects the revised part may have. IMHO lazy thermostats are behind a large percentage of overheating problems with these, so if they have something with fancy characteristics, faster reaction, etc, would be interesting to try it.

Welcome to the forum, glad to have you aboard!