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  #1  
Old 12-01-2012, 11:30 AM
jayartibee jayartibee is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Vehicle: Bespoke Land Rover hybrid 'TD6'. www.taffylandy.weebly.com
Posts: 16
Default Hello from a Land Roverer in UK

Hi all
I am lucky enough to have a Land Rover Series/Defender hybrid with a D24T sourced from a Volvo 740.
I've joined with three initial questions.
a) is it possible to convert the pulleys to poly-V? My alternator belt seems to scream a lot when cold or under load and I don't want to make it any tighter.
b) how do I adjust the idle speed?
c) last year I replaced the front four glow plugs. (Back two very difficult to get to) One of them was a pain to get out and indeed seriously damaged the thread. I am not confident about next time. Can I tap out the hole to take a larger plug?

I hope you guys can give me a hand.
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2012, 06:35 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Welcome to the D24T forum.

Here are my first answers to your initial questions:

a) is it possible to convert the pulleys to poly-V? My alternator belt seems to scream a lot when cold or under load and I don't want to make it any tighter.

Alt belt needs to be pretty tight. How old is the belt and is it a quality brand?


b) how do I adjust the idle speed?

Idling too fast or too slow? Normally, idle speed adjustment is via the idle stop screw near the top of the IP, running alongside the valvecover side. There is a tab on the IP throttle lever that contacts the end of the screw, and the front end has the slot cut in it for a flat screwdriver to adjust effective length and a 10mm nut to lock the screw position. Difficult to get tools in there between the injector lines.

c) last year I replaced the front four glow plugs. (Back two very difficult to get to) One of them was a pain to get out and indeed seriously damaged the thread. I am not confident about next time. Can I tap out the hole to take a larger plug?

I think installing a helicoil might be a better idea. Treat it like stripped sparkplug threads in an aluminum head gasser.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2012, 11:28 PM
jayartibee jayartibee is offline
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Vehicle: Bespoke Land Rover hybrid 'TD6'. www.taffylandy.weebly.com
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Thanks V much. I will have a look next time I am spannering. How much deflection of the Vee belt at the widest point should there be?
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Last edited by jayartibee; 12-01-2012 at 11:33 PM.
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:09 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Neat setup, looks like that motor is really tucked in there tight!

As ngoma said, the alt belt has to be way tighter than you think it should be. For the faulty glow plug threads, yeah, helicoil is really the only option, since plus-size glow plugs aren't available. If it were me, I would be cautious about it, maybe even think about yanking the head and having the job done by a machine shop, unless you tap the hole exactly straight you'll have issues with the glow plug's taper seal leaking compression out -- but if you're confident you can do a precise job, then it shouldn't be too bad. I would probably take the injector out of that hole, set the relevant cylinder to TDC compression, and have a vacuum cleaner running in that location the whole time while cutting the threads, to ensure that any metal pieces were removed.

Idle speed is as ngoma described basically, but there are more complicated factors involved too, I suspect if you're asking about it then maybe your situation is more tricky. In the absence of the pump's external appendages, the idle speed is set by the throttle lever stop screw ngoma mentioned. However, there are two other things that can render that screw unable to affect things the way you want it to. If your cold start thermostat has failed or the cold start linkage is not adjusted correctly, there's an additional ball stud on the cold start advance arm that bumps idle up a couple hundred RPM, and that could be holding the idle up when warm too (if tstat is failed) and preventing the throttle lever from returning to its regular stop screw. If the cold start thermostat is frozen, it will remain in the "cold" position (advance+high idle) at all times, quite a common malady. You can temporarily resolve it by releasing the cold start cable end to disable the CS mechanism, and permanently fix it by replacing the wax thermostat, Bosch part # 1 467 202 302.

Or alternatively (perhaps concurrently!), if the linkage rod from the throttle "spool" assembly (the rotating device that the throttle cable attaches to) is adjusted to the incorrect length, or the sliding ball stud that it attaches to on the throttle lever is set in the wrong position, then the low idle speed can end up being set by where the spool hits its own low stop, which could be in a place that prevents the throttle lever from hitting its proper low stop screw on the pump. This is very common, and again has the result of making the proper low idle stop screw on the IP useless for adjusting idle speed. Volvo has an elaborate procedure for setting up the linkage down to the nth degree, but the only really important thing is that the rod and ball stud be configured such that when backing off the throttle, the throttle *lever* reaches its stop screw on the pump *before* the throttle spool reaches its own stop, and ideally there should be a good couple mm of clearance remaining at the throttle spool's stop when everything is at rest. Then you also want to make sure that when the accelerator is floored, the spool reaches its full throttle stop right around the time that the throttle lever is about to touch its high idle stop screw. It's a kind of fiddly process of adjusting rod length, moving ball stud around, etc until you have got it right, but this is something that can actually significantly improve the motor's driveability if the adjustment was far off (which can sometimes prevent the engine from reachin full throttle!).

Does your truck have a manual or automatic trans in it? I'm aware that Land Rovers were some of the only other vehicles to use the ZF 4HP22 automatic that was used with the D24T, suspecting you may have taken advantage of that compatibility?
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:56 AM
jayartibee jayartibee is offline
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Vehicle: Bespoke Land Rover hybrid 'TD6'. www.taffylandy.weebly.com
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Thanks very much for your long and detailed response.

I'll see what the belt tension is like. I was concerned about wear on the alt bearing.

Re the throttle, I don't think I understand what the cold start does. I don't think it's working at any rate. Is it supposed to simply raise the RPM until it warms up a bit? I don't think the throttle stops are set up right and will look when it's out of the garage.


The truck has a defender manual gearbox with an adapter ring to mate it with the D24t. Goes well. It was disappointing to start with until we realised the hose between the aneroid fuel adjust thing and the manifold wasn't connected!
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2012, 11:53 AM
jayartibee jayartibee is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Vehicle: Bespoke Land Rover hybrid 'TD6'. www.taffylandy.weebly.com
Posts: 16
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I think my throttle linkage is quite different to normal - no 'spool?
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:47 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Vehicle: 85 745, 84Suburban 96Ram
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Your adapter 'kit' has eliminated the Volvo throttle spool entirely.
cold start pulls on its cable when cold, advancing timing, and raising the RPM to about 1500, but they seldom work.
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:36 AM
jayartibee jayartibee is offline
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Vehicle: Bespoke Land Rover hybrid 'TD6'. www.taffylandy.weebly.com
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I've put some details of the vehicle here

http://taffylandy.weebly.com/index.html
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2013, 09:56 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Nicely done site, looks great!

Fun to read your description of the sounds your truck makes when it's working hard.... probably not too many other Land Rovers out there that deliver such a nice song! The LR 200tdi and 300tdi motors seem to run well enough, but compared to a D24T their auditory qualities leave something to be desired....
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