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  #11  
Old 08-09-2016, 10:09 AM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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A malfunctioning cold start device should not prevent it from starting. Double check the alignment marks on the injection pump sprocket and the injection pump bracket. If they are way off at TDC, you willing need to rotate the camshaft sprocket in the manner described previously. You could be off a full millimeter, too far or not far enough.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2016, 08:24 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamdrives View Post
Finally using a prybar, I was able to gently rock the pump against the block, and it moved.
Not a good way to time the IP. Good possibility of cracking the high pressure injector hardlines, or pre-stressing them for future breakage. If you must rotate the IP, loosen all the hardlines first, then retighten them afterwards, not too tight (16 ft-lbs? Check the forum or greenbook for exact spec) to not deform the fittings.

This post has a better method of timing the IP. There are others here on the forum. We need to make a sticky for IP timing.

http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=6253&postcount=16
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2016, 04:51 PM
adamdrives adamdrives is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goteborg Vapenfabrik View Post
A malfunctioning cold start device should not prevent it from starting. Double check the alignment marks on the injection pump sprocket and the injection pump bracket. If they are way off at TDC, you willing need to rotate the camshaft sprocket in the manner described previously. You could be off a full millimeter, too far or not far enough.
The alignment marks from the injection pump to the pulley? They are very close. A millimeter or two off could be an issue?

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Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
Not a good way to time the IP. Good possibility of cracking the high pressure injector hardlines, or pre-stressing them for future breakage. If you must rotate the IP, loosen all the hardlines first, then retighten them afterwards, not too tight (16 ft-lbs? Check the forum or greenbook for exact spec) to not deform the fittings.

This post has a better method of timing the IP. There are others here on the forum. We need to make a sticky for IP timing.

http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=6253&postcount=16
Yes, I was able to get the correct timing by loosening the camshaft bolt as discussed on previous page.

I'm concerned that I may have damaged the threads from over tightening the hard line connections. if I'm not able to stop the leak, I'm not sure what my options would be. All I can think of is trying to remove the lines and get silicon tape around the fittings.

I did more fault tracing in the pre-heating circuit, and found that all six glow plugs are dead. i'm not sure if this is unhappy coincidence or the result of me grounding out the strap to glow plugs against the head when I was fooling around with a pry bar Either way, the replacements are on their way so I will hopefully be able to try again this weekend. Any tricks for getting out #6 glow plug? I had to practically crouch on the battery to gain access.
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  #14  
Old 08-11-2016, 05:24 PM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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Sounds like your injection pump timing is right. The alignment marks would be much further apart than what you described if that was the problem. There is a fuse in the control unit or "glow plug relay". A test light or basic multimeter would easily tell if the bus bar is getting 12v when the ignition switch is on. There is also the audible "click" when the control unit is working.
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2016, 09:46 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamdrives View Post
I'm concerned that I may have damaged the threads from over tightening the hard line connections. if I'm not able to stop the leak, I'm not sure what my options would be. All I can think of is trying to remove the lines and get silicon tape around the fittings.
Teflon tape not likely to help in this situation. Teflon tape is for tapered pipe thread; these fittings are more like brake line fittings, kind of a reversed inverted flare. The seal takes place between the male flare and the female cone seat. The threads only hold the connection mechanically.

Thread tape is appropriate for use on tapered threads, where the sealing force is a wedge action from the deforming threads.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2016, 08:59 AM
adamdrives adamdrives is offline
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After replacing the fuel filter, coolant temp sensor, and bad glow plugs, and double checking all my connections, she started! Very exciting moment as she coughed to life and idled for a few moments before I shut her off. I've been waiting for this moment for a long time!

There are a few troubling issues, however. The glow plug indicator light doesn't seem to turn off--it runs and runs. For the first start attempt, I left the key in position two waiting for it to shut off. When it didn't, I tried starting anyway, and it did start. I tried again a few times, and each time the glow plug light did not turn off after 10-15 seconds. Is this normal? If I recall correctly, before I replaced the plugs the light would run for a little while then shut off. Of course the plugs were bad at that point, but either way I believe this indicates an issue with the relay. All the wiring is new and correct. If I'm correct in thinking that the plugs are running too long or never turning off, this could also explain why they were all dead when I got the car.

The next issue is that the low oil pressure light stays on when the car is running. The car came with a bad (seized) turbo, so it seems likely it was ran with no/low oil pressure. Before I had been able to start the car, I had noticed that with the turbo disconnected there was no oil coming out of the turbo feed when cranking the motor. With everything hooked up, I left the oil feed to the turbo cracked open and started the car briefly to look for signs of oil, thinking it might need to run to build sufficient pressure, as a member here had suggested. This doesn't seem to be the case. There is no sign of oil at the feed. Hopefully the PO didn't run the car for long with no/low pressure. The motor definitely "clacks" loudly when run, but this is my first diesel so I'm not exactly sure how it should sound. My plan is to tee in a pressure gauge at the pressure sender as I saw in a post on this forum, and see what I'm getting, but first I'm going to look through the greenbooks and see what they have to say about pressure. I've never had to deal with oil pressure issues before, but I imagine it's likely the pump or a blocked passage.

Also, are there any tricks to installing the #6 plug? I used a combination of magnets, screw drivers, tape, shaved down sockets and my fingers to inch it in little by little, and then used a similar combination to get the small 8mm nut on, but the whole process incredibly awkward and time consuming, i.e. one flat at a time. Is there an easier way? I wasn't able to actually tighten the last 8mm nut, only get it snug enough that was I satisfied it would be making good connection to power.

Last edited by adamdrives; 09-04-2016 at 09:02 AM.
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2016, 07:29 PM
adamdrives adamdrives is offline
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Looks like I jumped the gun with low oil pressure, after talking to a member who suggested blipping the throttle after a moment or two of idling I have plenty of oil pressure. Enough that when I forgot I had left the turbo feed cracked to check for pressure, it pumped out 3 quarts on to the parking lot where I work on the car It only ran for a few moments before I shut it off, so I'm not worried about damage, but it did leave a nice dark stain which I will have to try to clean up.

I changed the oil and took it for a short drive today, and boy is it a blast to drive! The high compression/turbo sound (the car came straight piped, side exit) is seriously addicting. It's not fast but it feels very strong and mechanical.

On my list for tomorrow are to look into glow plug relay isse, no tachometer and no coolant temp. The speedometer also reads too high, but that's not crucial right now. The PS pump also has a small leak in the reservoir, I was hoping it was from a line but it is the actual reservoir. All in all I am very pleased!
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  #18  
Old 09-12-2016, 06:41 AM
BluevanACD2005 BluevanACD2005 is offline
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Great job!

-Spenser
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  #19  
Old 09-12-2016, 07:51 PM
adamdrives adamdrives is offline
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Maybe it would make sense to move these updates into a new thread, idk. I like having everything in one thread for continuity.

Since the last post I got the coolant temp gauge working, it was the sensor. Tested by grounding sensor wire to block, gauge showed full hot. So that was an easy fix. Glow plug relay seems to function intermittently--sometimes it will stay on in pos 2 when I know the motor is warm, other times it goes out when the motor isn't dead cold. As long as the plugs aren't being energized while the car is running, I can live. The tachometer was just a bad contact to the cluster issue. My dad had a spare Saginaw PS pump, so no leaks whatsoever! At least not significant ones. The turbo inlet drips a little.

I re-did the timing to the enthusiast recommended 0.95mm (as opposed to greenbook california 1985 0.75) and the car runs quieter, smokes less and starts up more easily, which was unexpected. It actually seems a little lower on power compared to before, but maybe it was the extra noise that fooled me. I got the car registered and took a drive on the highway, and overall the car feels solid minus some squeaks in the suspension. Not bad for a $400 non-runner. I plan to do struts and shocks and replace all worn bushings in the suspension anyway so I can drive this every day if I want, or sell it.

The only real issue right now is the speedometer reading about 3x faster than the car is going, which messes with my tach and will become an issue when I start driving it more in terms of keeping on track of oil changes, etc. I've heard that a swapped rear end with a different number of teeth causes this issue. The car came with a spare (good, afaik) rear end so I may crack open the two and see how many teeth they have. I can tell how fast I'm going but I'd like to know how far I've driven it.
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  #20  
Old 09-12-2016, 08:34 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamdrives View Post
The only real issue right now is the speedometer reading about 3x faster than the car is going...
So like when you are going 40 it reads 120? Does the odometer also read 3x higher? Like if you travel 10 miles it shows 30? Did the previous owner swap out the rear end?
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