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  #41  
Old 05-02-2013, 08:33 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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I decided to replace the clutch based on a simple test, which now I'm not certain was accurate. I had the car on jack-stands and put it in gear (1st then 2nd then 3rd) then stepped on the brake. The rear wheels stopped but the engine was still turning and there was that "clutch slipping" sound. I repeated the same test after installing the new clutch and the rear wheels still turned, although it took a little more power to do so (Both tests were performed at under 1,500 rpm's). It seems the engine should stall so I'm not sure what I'm overlooking here. I also just wanted to inspect the clutch since the car has 203,000 miles on it and it felt soft when I drove it home.

I need to put in a new clutch cable also since the original doesn't appear to hold correctly. Someone put a small hose clamp on the cable at the base of the adjuster to hold it in place.

I came to the same conclusion on the pilot bearing and put the original one back in after cleaning and greasing it. I'm going to post additional photos on my job following this post. I was able to order a "National" bearing from O'Rielly but it hasn't come in yet. They said it would take 10 days and it was a "factory" order, ie. they had to manufacture the thing. When it arrives I'll compare the two and post here. If it's not the same I'll get one of those on a group buy.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #42  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:10 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Default On the road!!

So I "stole" the plates off my '85 Jetta and took my 745 out for a 30 mile drive to burn the oil off the manifolds and see how it ran and I was impressed! It was at night and initially I was leaving quite a bit of smoke under acceleration but it cleared up a little towards the end of the test. I'll adjust the fuel screw and LDA settings once I put my new nozzles in this weekend.

Here's the update on the clutch replacement.

Per v8volvo, his suggestion about the pilot bearing is correct. Here's the two pictures I took of the original INA and the "replacement" Kolb. The stock INA part number is clearly visible as well as the seal that v8volvo mentioned. After cleaning the original I just greased it and put it back in.



__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #43  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:13 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Here's the "modified" clutch alignment tool made with painter's masking tape to make the alignment tool fit the pilot needle bearing. Hey, it worked!



And here's the pilot bearing puller I got from Harbor Freight. It worked VERY well and the cost for the kit with four different sized pullers was $70.00.
__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #44  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:20 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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After acquiring a clutch kit from Autozone, O'Riely (AP pressure plate with Valeo disk) and AutohausAZ (Sachs) I decided to go with the Sachs pressure plate and disk and returned the other two.

Here's the Sachs and Valeo disks side by side. The Sachs disk is like the original disk I removed which has the extra "layer" of small springs. I'm not sure how important that is and I'm sure the Valeo disk would have worked.





Thickness compared to original Sachs disk:

__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #45  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:25 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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This picture shows the two pins on the flywheel that may serve a purpose, but I don't know what it is; maybe to hold the pressure plate in position prior to installing the alignment tool. The original Sachs pressure plate was able to fit around these pins. The replacement Sachs as well as the AP plate required a small amount of grinding to make room for the pins. I thought about removing or cutting off the pins but just ground the plate instead.

__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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  #46  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:50 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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What is the Sachs part number for the friction disc? I haven't been able to find one from any of the suppliers I have tried.... I used to be able to get the complete Sachs kit, part # 271265, but can't get it anymore.

About your findings performing your power-brake test -- did you have someone watching both rear wheels? Volvos use a very heavy brake bias towards the front and a dual-circuit hydraulic system where each rear break is on a separate circuit, which depending on the condition of everything can lead to a little more application force on one wheel than on the other -- plus you have the open differential which, in my cars at least, always seems to have a noticeable bias towards the right side rear wheel. I wonder if the scraping sound you heard was one rear wheel still spinning?
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  #47  
Old 05-02-2013, 10:51 AM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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I'd be worried if I couldn't stall the car in every gear using the brakes.

I know Volvo uses some flywheels with a flat surface, and some have a dished grind. If you use the wrong parts, or a machine shop has ground your dished flywheel flat, there isn't enough surface area, and it slips.
To me, this disc looks burnt to hell in one ring, and new in the rest?

I think I have a Sachs disc I can still read the numbers on, I'll dig that up later.

Where was the red powdered metal coming from?
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  #48  
Old 05-03-2013, 07:30 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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I'm going to create a new thread for the clutch job and try and summarize everything there. The thread is here: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?p=6868#post6868
__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg

Last edited by Nevadan; 05-03-2013 at 07:54 AM.
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  #49  
Old 08-02-2013, 05:39 PM
petercz petercz is offline
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And this is my camshaft... I was driving down the highway 80mph when it happened

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  #50  
Old 08-03-2013, 07:48 AM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
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Ouch!!!! I know the feeling.

So I'll be the first to ask: What caused it and why?
__________________
J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg
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