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  #11  
Old 11-30-2009, 04:23 PM
77volvo245 77volvo245 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvoStevo View Post
Are those the same as the ones found in 240s? If so, I think I have a couple extra in my garage.
No, the 340 radiators are not the same as 740s. The D24t radiators are longer.
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2009, 09:32 AM
axL_ axL_ is offline
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Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
You've got an all-metal radiator in that car, those are rare. Take care of it. I'll buy it from you if it ever goes bad or you want to trade for a good normal one.

whats so good about those radiators?
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2009, 01:30 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Originally Posted by axL_ View Post
whats so good about those radiators?
Just that you can rebuild them as many times as you want so they will essentially last forever. All the new ones you can buy nowadays are the cheap crappy aluminum-core kind with plastic end tanks and hose necks. Those can't be rebuilt and the plastic necks get brittle and can easily be broken off. When parts for these cars get more rare -- as they are already beginning to do -- it will be good to have parts that can be rebuilt and fixed rather than ones that have to be replaced because they are not rebuildable. Soon enough, there will be NO new radiators available for D24Ts and so your only option will be to adapt something that doesn't fit quite right, have a custom unit built for major $$, get something from a junkyard that is already half broken...... or, if you are lucky and happen to have an all-metal radiator, just have your existing rad recored and put it back in with little expense and hassle. That is why the metal radiators are desirable.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2009, 02:38 PM
77volvo245 77volvo245 is offline
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Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Nice find. Glad the car got picked up by someone who will care for it.

The HG is not really that big a job, especially if you have an engine hoist to aid in removing the head with. I'm doing one today, took just a couple hours to get the head off yesterday and will put it back together this afternoon. How did it fail -- oil in the coolant, or losing compression, or external leak? Either way it would be good to repair it ASAP, otherwise damage to hoses, bearings, etc may result from the fluids mixing. The car I took apart yesterday had about half a quart of oil in the water, and some of the hoses have been damaged as a result. Don't forget to do a new front timing belt, tensioner, and water pump at the same time.

How many miles on it? Running and driving? Looks identical to my white '83 sedan, which also has a red interior. I didn't like the appearance at first, but the look is growing on me.
This was Tyler's old car and he did most of the work. What I was told he took material off the the head gasket for some reason and I think that why it failed. There is excess pressure coming out from the water reservoir, it seems not to overheat while idling. I only drove the car around the block once it seems to drive decent. There is no water in the oil or anything like that. The car only has about 35K, Kevin posted a video of it running in the showroom if you have not seem it yet. 740 are really growing on me now but I still like my 240s.
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2009, 09:51 PM
Slobodan Slobodan is offline
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Did the head gasket on it. Put a composite 2 notch on there with a reamed out 80 head and N/A cam shaft. The JunkYard head had the shims WAY to tight! I had to loosen them all up ALOT. used ATF to clean the valve seats. man... We hit 700 PSI on one cylinder and the rest were ~500PSI this was before I ran it and DEAD cold outside temp was 30F. but then again, once we got the head on and torqued I put ATF down all the intake ports and rolled the engine over by hand a couple times forwards and backwards with injectors in. Then I took the injectors out poured more ATF down the injector ports and let it set for a couple days, then we turned it over again and let it sit some more. we spun it over a while with the starter to get the excess ATF out and to lube up the valves and get them cleaner checked the valve lash like 3 times during all this and they got looser and looser. this junkyard head decked out perfectly flat. but some of the valves had this junk on them. it seems weird but just needed cleaned.

All in all not bad. Soon I'll have the AFTER video up.
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2009, 11:38 AM
77volvo245 77volvo245 is offline
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I found an 1980 240 n/a diese! at the junk yard. The car has been sitting for awhile. Alot of moss on the car the tags say 2003. The timming belt wasn't broken I tired turning over the car by hand and wouldnt budge. The block was really clean I pulled the valve cover off, and I was amazed the head has been recently been rebult. I took off the head and I notice the hold motor is a rebult. This head saved me alot of Money and time than going to a machine shop and getting the head resurface, and waiting for a week to get it back.

I change to oil yesterday with lubro moly fully synthetic diesel engine oil. Its slowly getting back on the road again. I will post more pictures later. Thanks Kevin for helping us...
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  #17  
Old 12-29-2009, 05:04 AM
piper109 piper109 is offline
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I remember when Tyler did the headgasket on that white car. It was about two years ago.
He borrowed my tool to lock the crankshaft pulley in position so he could change the timing belt.
He had overheating problems afterwards too, pulling heavy loads up long hills I think. He used an Evans waterless coolant at one time.
I think you will find it still has the automatic transmission rear axle so at 80 mph you will be turning 3700 rpm. My auto to stick swap 745 is just the same. Makes the car quite peppy and the engine does not seem to mind the rpm.

Steve
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2009, 04:31 PM
77volvo245 77volvo245 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper109 View Post
I remember when Tyler did the headgasket on that white car. It was about two years ago.
He borrowed my tool to lock the crankshaft pulley in position so he could change the timing belt.
He had overheating problems afterwards too, pulling heavy loads up long hills I think. He used an Evans waterless coolant at one time.
I think you will find it still has the automatic transmission rear axle so at 80 mph you will be turning 3700 rpm. My auto to stick swap 745 is just the same. Makes the car quite peppy and the engine does not seem to mind the rpm.

Steve
Kevin and I tried to unbolt the crank pulley and it was way to tight. We could not even get it off with an impact gun. Im not sure what we are going to do. I need to have him do the final stage 3 of the torque spec on the head bolts. While we are at it, going to replace water pump and timing belt. Kevin has a crank holder tool but needs to find it.
Since the headgasket replacement there has been no problems of overheating at all. The gearing of the rear end did felt different from my 240 with a D24.
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  #19  
Old 12-30-2009, 05:55 PM
77volvo245 77volvo245 is offline
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Been cleaning the engine bay. I was thinking of keeping the A/C thought it would be nice to have, but it was always getting in the way. The D24T radiator was in very poor condition so I rerplace a radiator from a 960 instead. The radiator from the 960 is the exact same size only a little thinner and was able to use the E-fan from that radiator. The 960 radiators don't have a spot for overflow tank on the radiator So I bypass it though the VW water oil cooler.










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84-D24T
84-764 D24T M46

86-245 B230 366K
83-244 Turbo B21FT M46
72-145 B20 M40
77-245 B21ft project
78-242 B21f BW55 97K
79-242GT B21F M46 165K

Biodiesel Processor For Sale
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  #20  
Old 12-31-2009, 05:44 AM
piper109 piper109 is offline
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Interesting that you are using the electric fan. I have looked at doing that on my 92 conversion.
I still have the turbo gas radiator which is a wee bit thinner than the diesel but I also have an intercooler in there thats not being used. The electric fan was standard in 92.

In order for it to fit, I will have to remove the mechanical fan pulley and shaft on the alternator bracket and get a shorter belt to run the power steering pump directly off the crankshaft.

My biggest problem is that the std cooling fan is controlled by the gas engine ECU so I would have to arrange a temp switch on the plumbing somewhere and the rad has no orts for a switch. It looks like you have a big fitting assembly in the top rad hose. Is that how you do it? What switch do you use?

It is also switched on by the a/c and I have preserved that system (not hooked up) although the a/c does not get enough cooling without the helper fan in front of the rad at present.

I presently just have the 1985 stock mechanical fan and shroud on the 92 rad.
Canning the a/c is not an option for me in SC.

Steve
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