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You might want to try to get the engine oil circulating before letting it start the first time. You can remove the glow plug and injection pump power fuse (fuse #13 in the interior fusebox ahead of the shift lever on 1985 and up cars, might be different on earlier ones) to disable the engine from starting, and with the fuse removed, crank the engine over on the starter for a few stretches of 30-40 seconds to get the oil pump primed and build some pressure throughout the engine before letting it run on its own. The cam bearings and turbo bearing in particular will have a hard time with a dry start after so much time sitting. Then when you put the fuse back in it should fire right up assuming everything else is working. You might want to plan on changing the engine oil after it gets warmed up for the first time too, the old oil will have absorbed significant water from condensation over the last 3 years of seasonal weather changes and oxidation occurs over time also. The timing belt(s) will be an important question after sitting for years. The rubber deteriorates and the belts aren't really worth trusting more than 7-8 years or so. Unless the belts were changed fairly recently before the car was parked, they may be due or overdue now. Might want to pop the cover off and inspect at least the front timing belt for obvious cracks or brittleness moving the belt by hand before cranking the engine. If it looks and feels pretty good it will probably be safe enough to start it and move it a short distance, but new timing belts would probably want to be high on your list of items to refresh if you do more work on it later. There have been quite a few members here who bought these cars after they sat a long time and then had the belt snap and trash the engine shortly after they put the car on the road. And last thing, the area that in my experience seems to suffer the most from sitting dormant is the hydraulics of the brake system. Full fluid flush would probably be a good idea, and even with that done, you might end up with a few sticky calipers, might have to replace a few. Good to keep an eye out for this and hopefully find any issues before they strand the car or wear down a pad and chew up an otherwise OK rotor. Glad you're getting it going again, good luck and let us know how it goes.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
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Thanks everyone for your thoughts. The car did start easy and run well prior to parking it. I had a work trip overseas that had me park the car. Then when returning life caught back up and I lost immediate interest in the Volvo.
Now that I have moved from a townhouse to a single family home with some acreage it makes we want the Volvo back! Here is the list I made while an a long work conference call. Code:
Volvo starting / driving checklist 1. Check engine fluids and top-off where needed [ ] Engine oil [ ] Transmission fluid [ ] Coolant [ ] Power steering fluid 2. Power [ ] Connect battery jumper and check voltage at the battery [ ] Turn ignition to pre-start and verify glow plugs turn on [ ] If not, tap on GP relay; repeat 3. Prime engine with oil [ ] Disconnect fuel cut-off solenoid [ ] Turn engine over for 15-20 seconds; wait 5 seconds, re-engage; observe low oil light 4. Start engine [ ] Re-connect fuel cut-off solenoid [ ] Cycle glow plugs once; start 5. Check tires, lights, and brakes [ ] Check tire air pressure; add air as needed [ ] Check headlights, markers, brake lights, and reverse lights [ ] Replace bulbs as needed [ ] Drive the car locally and verify brake performance Quote:
The front timing belt is an unknown. When I bought the car in 2007 it had a new belt according to the service paperwork. The car came with a large folder of receipts. Now here we are ~12 years later. I'll take a look at the belt and report back my findings. Quote:
Thanks!
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Jim 1985 Volvo 740 GLE turbo diesel |
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Take the battery home a few days beforehand and charge it overnight.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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