--Moved-- New from PDX

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Qualitatively, how "quiet" should one run? This one doesn't sound like a bag of rocks, but it certainly is a far far cry from a perfect mercedes OM603 running really good fuel on a fresh set of Monark nozzles. Maybe a little loud, petty snappy. Has good service records, and it actually has ~200K mi on it.

Sounds about like most healthy freshened up Rabbit/Jetta diesels I've seen really carefully freshened or some with under 30K on them from my memory (my memory is getting dim), just more of it (6 holes).

Sounded terrible pulling the cold start lever forward, like...alarming.

Should sound pleasing, not alarming, yet louder than a gasser.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Are these "made in France" "Monark" nozzles still available?
http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=103...onarch+nozzles

Don't know, I got some from Sean Watts / Hessian Imports (for Monark Nozzles)

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Qualitatively, how "quiet" should one run? This one doesn't sound like a bag of rocks, but it certainly is a far far cry from a perfect mercedes OM603 running really good fuel on a fresh set of Monark nozzles. Maybe a little loud, petty snappy. Has good service records, and it actually has ~200K mi on it.

...

Sounded terrible pulling the cold start lever forward, like...alarming.

Should be rather quiet. D24 is usually a little louder than D24T but both should be quieter than a 4cyl VW. These engines had/have a reputation for refinement and silence, compared to others from the era. Similar noise level to an OM603, though the noises are quite different. Clatter on cold start is normal but with a warm engine, should be not much louder than your typical piston-slapping worn-out redblock gasser Volvo. In qualitative terms, shouldn't usually sound "alarming" regardless of noise level. If it does, that's reason to check things out.

Do you have the means to check static injection timing? That's the first step and only takes about 10 minutes (with tools). You can buy the stuff cheap on ebay, or borrow it from several members here who can loan tools, or likely some folks local to you in the PDX area.

Better to know than to speculate. If you find it's not 100% spot-on, then you can reasonably assume the cam timing is not right either (typical indicators of belts having been done in the past without correct tools/techniques), and it would be a warning sign to check the torque on the crank pulley bolt as well. Getting those things right is critical to it operating and surviving as well as it should. It sounds like you have a healthy one so, worth the bit of effort to dial it in.

Checking valve clearances should eventually be on the list too -- but I'd put timing first.

[Fridgewagon]

Dial indicator, yes.

Cam wheel and crank tools have a line on genuine. Though would buy those and the funny scalloped out socket to remove the injectors.

Do you need a lens grinding set or similar to lap the injector pieces super smooth? Like super fine sand paper on a flat granite measuring table or similar when shimming up the Monark nozzles for pop-off pressure?

Parts available where for the cold start device? I remember seeing numbers and a source for those and the glow plug relay bits.

Have a snap-on torque wrench good for ~280ft-lbs, so with the volvo extension dealie for the crank bolt it is probably enough? I know it's supposed to be 330 at the bolt. I forget what they say to torque it to if using the extension bar. Was always least painful to torque those with the car on a rack from underneath.

I always used to borrow those or my boss had the set of them.

It's a little loud and a little fast. Cold start disabled, timing needs to be verified. Smokes a lot at high(er) RPM under load. I'm hoping a fresh set of Monark's will cure that a fair bit. Parked until I put new floors in my new (to me) house.

Borrowed the funny scallopy socket to remove the injectors to compression test it. Had a pretty even 500psi or whatever, minimal leak down, the core engine itself seems pretty healthy, no oil smoke or alarming oil consumption, good power, a little loud, alarmingly loud when the advance lever is pulled as though the cold start were pulling it into the "cold" position.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

...the funny scalloped out socket to remove the injectors.

Not sure I've seen this. Usually use a 1-1/16" socket. Torque to 52ft-lbs, careful to always pull (or push) the ratchet lever towards the head, to avoid breaking off the injector boss cast into the head.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Do you need a lens grinding set or similar to lap the injector pieces super smooth? Like super fine sand paper on a flat granite measuring table or similar when shimming up the Monark nozzles for pop-off pressure?

Yes, see HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Parts available where for the cold start device? I remember seeing numbers and a source for those and the glow plug relay bits.

See Cold Start Waxstat

and

cold start removal

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Have a snap-on torque wrench good for ~280ft-lbs, so with the volvo extension dealie for the crank bolt it is probably enough? I know it's supposed to be 330 at the bolt. I forget what they say to torque it to if using the extension bar. Was always least painful to torque those with the car on a rack from underneath.

Why underneath? This photo shows how easy from above. Sorry, photo actually shows loosening. Tightening similar, just place crank pulley holding tool on other side of radiator fan bearing boss.P1010235.jpg

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

It's a little loud and a little fast. Cold start disabled, timing needs to be verified. Smokes a lot at high(er) RPM under load. I'm hoping a fresh set of Monark's will cure that a fair bit.

What color smoke? Might be fuel filter or IP adjustment rather than injectors? What else is making you condemn the injectors?

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Borrowed the funny scallopy socket to remove the injectors to compression test it.

Make sure you have new injector heat shields for reinstall (or at least reform them w/ 1/2" ball bearing)(photos somewhere in this forum).

Your consistent 500PSI compression test results are optimum, really the main thing these engines need (compression, fuel, and air), should be a good runner once you get the details sorted out, regardless of the bad rep (sh***y turds!) these engines get on the other Volvo forums!

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

...a little loud, alarmingly loud when the advance lever is pulled as though the cold start were pulling it into the "cold" position.

I forget if you said you had the neccessary +12VDC at the altitude compensator?

Most answers are scattered about this forum, sorry for the lack of a good index. Will require some dedicated searching time and a good internet connection. It is what it is.

[Fridgewagon]

Ok, got out the dial indicator and double checked the crank pulley bolt was super tight. Timing is at euro spec, but not alarmingly off. Injection pump isn't timed per the book method judging by its position relative to the bracket (too close to the head if that makes sense...I think I've seen v8volvo mention that)

Let the heavy duty crane heat gun blow into the intake for several minutes (since I know I have at least two dead glow plugs after disconnecting the bus bar) and it lit right off in a snap. I didn't want to burn up my starter or wear the motor out on a nice 30 degree day.

Swapped out the Fram fuel filter for a Bosch filled to the brim with fresh Lubro-moly diesel purge. That sure turned the volume down (general engine racket ) and made the test drive a lot snappier? Any other issues to be alarmed with there?

Block doesn't look to be painted green, rebuilt? If rebuilt i sure hope they did a good job. It runs real nice and quick. Has fresh cooling hoses oe with American clamps and a bypassed engine harness, somi wouldn't be shocked if it's been out.

Car is from Sacramento river valley ca so the car has zero rust, but the engine doesn't leak and the timing and cam cover has rut spots, not much evidence of blowby out the crankcase vent hose. Block is all greasy and nasty around the injection pump. Had a receipt for injection pump rebuild and reinstall for $2000 in the glovebox.

Hot starts fine with no glow plugs with the coolant temp ~100f, but "warm engine", so probably a little easier warm start than just a hot summer day. Takes maybe just a little longer when slightly warm if you don't glow it manually (my only choice since my relay is stuck on at the moment, but his is a second car and mostly parked until dialed in)

Adjusted the valves, nothing alarmingly out. Looked at timing belts and they look like fairly recent contis, but will change at 50k interval. Changed oil filter to Mann made in Germany from fram and very slightly overfilled (like barely above the cross-hatch on the stick, nothing radical) with Delo 40LE fully synthetic 5w-40. Old oil was fairly typical of a diesel IMO...still slippery, stinks like crayons, but a little sooty. Replaced air filter, flesh fluids and a bath in kerosene and the steam cleaner at the heavy equip hot wash. Had to turn the pressure and heat down to keep it "gentle".

Changed the glow plugs with Bosch durathherms. Cleaned the treads. What a pita to change the #6. Got it out carefully and bled a little. Removed vac pump, slathered new glow threads in a dab of anti-seize and wiped with microfiber. Will need to start cold tomorrow to see if it starts right up cold with 6/6 instead of 3.5/6.

Glow relay stuck on. How to repair or get it working right for a dual relay '83 265 diesel or buy new. Wiring diagram?

Need an engine harness and some special tools. Want to rebuild the head and get a good look at it and give it a good refresh. Tbelt near interval
What are the best brand water pumps?

Would like a block heater.
Would like to add the Volvo (gas engine) water to oil heat exchanger with D24T adapter.
Would like to add head studs.

Belts slip a little and starts to run a little warm even in winter towing up hill. Custom radiator?
Add larger 700 clutched cooling fan with a good pusher fan with custom aground with larger opening?

Headgasket possibly failing? Can you verify these with dye, leak down, coolant pressure test and smog (3-gas analyzer) on coolant reservoir like a normal gas engine?

I think the reason the 2 series get the small fan is so the shroud/fan doesn't interfere with the auto trans cooling lines with the more slanted motor. Since mine is a stick that isn't really an issue.
It looks like 2 and 7 top radiator hose are different and radiator is different maybe? I remember radiator being the same in years past.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Injection pump isn't timed per the book method judging by its position relative to the bracket (too close to the head if that makes sense...I think I've seen v8volvo mention that)

Best method we have arrived at is not the greenbook method, but rather to leave the IP tightened in a neutral position (lined up with the mark on the bracket seems to work fine) with the injector lines relaxed/retightened, and adjust the timing by rotating the rear camshaft pulley on the camshaft. Tighten the pulley, rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt) forward to TDC again, check the dial indicator.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Had a receipt for injection pump rebuild and reinstall for $2000 in the glovebox.

Lucky! Still has the yellow paint on the adjustment screws? Who was the rebuild shop?

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Changed oil filter to Mann made in Germany from fram and very slightly overfilled (like barely above the cross-hatch on the stick, nothing radical) with Delo 40LE fully synthetic 5w-40.

Full synthetic oil really helps these. Some of us overfill to improve an extended oil pressure lamp condition at startup. The oil pickup tube has a long horizontal run and if its o-ring is losing its seal the oil can drain back out of the pickup tube.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Changed the glow plugs with Bosch durathherms. Cleaned the treads. What a pita to change the #6.

Yes GP #6 is never easy, worse when the IP is positioned overly close to the head, as yours is.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Removed vac pump...

Make sure you reinstalled the actuator rod back in the correct orientation. Backwards can cause excessive wear on the cam.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Will need to start cold tomorrow to see if it starts right up cold with 6/6 instead of 3.5/6.

What was the result?

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Glow relay stuck on. How to repair or get it working right for a dual relay '83 265 diesel or buy new.

I'd be temped to upgrade to the newer relay. Revised circuitry allows for better warm starts, and afterglow. For now you could pop the cover and see what's up inside.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Need an engine harness...

Probably not affordable, check Dave Barton. They are not so complex; you could likely redo the deteriorated portions in a few hours.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

What are the best brand water pumps?

Most all available are the stamped steel impeller type. Not sure we have arrived at a "best" pick. Someone recently planned to send some used OE out for rebuild and testing.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Would like a block heater.

Easy but probably not necessary (West coast?) with good compression/battery/starter/GPs.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Belts slip a little and starts to run a little warm even in winter towing up hill.

What altitude? Could the radiator have a blockage? Does running the heater help? Some drop down a gear (higher revs/same MPH) to control overheat.

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

Headgasket possibly failing? Can you verify these with dye, leak down, coolant pressure test and smog (3-gas analyzer) on coolant reservoir like a normal gas engine?

Checks presence of hydrocarbons, correct? Should work. Check for radiator hoses getting hard too early upon startup (cap tightened). Also check for small bubbles emerging into the coolant reservoir (cap off). The leaky headgaskets I have seen leak oil and coolant out onto the side of the block, just under/behind the vacuum pump.

[anders]

Originally Posted by Fridgewagon

I think the reason the 2 series get the small fan is so the shroud/fan doesn't interfere with the auto trans cooling lines with the more slanted motor. Since mine is a stick that isn't really an issue.
It looks like 2 and 7 top radiator hose are different and radiator is different maybe? I remember radiator being the same in years past.

The 240's have a smaller radiator, and different locations for the cooling hoses (opposite of the 7xx cars) the radiators are completely different between the two. The clutched fan will fit in a 240 with the existing fan shroud, the fan is only 1" or so bigger.

From October to June I run without a cooling fan, and that is in some stop and go traffic and I have never got my engine hot, but I also know my cooling system is up to par.

[ngoma]

RE: Your question on water pump. I recently heard that if you order a WP for an Audi 5-cyl diesel you get one with the nice cast impeller, and with less 2 teeth on the cog pulley (so it spins a bit faster). I saw one. Looked to be high quality.

How's progress?

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by ngoma

The oil pickup tube has a long horizontal run and if its o-ring is losing its seal the oil can drain back out of the pickup tube.

I want to correct this. The oil pickup tube has a paper gasket, not an o-ring. Not likely to fail, therefore not likely be the cause of oil drainback/extended oil press lamp at startup.

New thinking is that worn/sloppy oil press relief valve is the main cause for oil drainback.