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  #21  
Old 05-20-2010, 06:32 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobodan View Post
If you mark everything, and make damn sure shit don't move. You should be fine. but its easier to have the right tools. To set pump timing, and what not. There are some interesting things about these engines. like the front cam gear.. No key way to index. Its a tapered fit. and when refitting the gear the bolts torque spec is 33ftlbs.

head bolt torque
33
44
55
180degree
run engine till warm
90degree
run car 1000miles
90degree further.

rear cam gear is 75ftlbs but you shouldn't need to remove that one.

the manifolds are around 15 ~ 16ftlbs

I would remove the cam shaft in order to lessen the risk of damaging the valves during removal of head. cam shaft cap nuts torque - 15ftlbs



Would be a good idea to get head shaved.... but take it to a machine shop that has worked on these heads. Do not worry about the cracks between the valves. its normal. head work will probably run you around 400$ on the high side. especially if you've overheated the engine a couple times.

Use new head bolts. or get ARP head studs. If you can find one, Get the metal head gasket... much better. I've done a couple head gaskets on these engines. I haven't done them the right way because the owners didn't have the money but wanted it running. So we did it the ghetto way. And so far so good. but then again. They didn't have just one head to choose from.


That is if you do have a blown head gasket.

I like doing the head gaskets on these engines because everyone else is like "What the hell?? how do you do this? " I say its easy watch this...
wtf! its just tapered on the front? i swear, this engine is the sillyest thing ive ever worked on lol.

I drilled a hole in the pipe connecting the radiator to the engine to vent the boost gases "if any" took it out and got it warm "taking it easy for once" then I did a HARD 2nd pull to 20psi, that fitting looked like a waterhose on full blast! lol, theres no doubt that the HG is blown to bits, but it still pulls good under boost lol...

im scared to death of that pump! im probably just going to keep everything together, mark the front timing belt top and bottom, take it apart, clean the hell out of the head and block, clean the pistons free of any rediculous buildup and smash it all back together!

i got to looking around on google... who makes a good stainless HG? and any idea what the head stud's measure? im gonna have to price all this out =/

damn, ive gotta spend money now, shit
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  #22  
Old 05-20-2010, 07:02 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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startup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwHlPJ3rTjw
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  #23  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:34 PM
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The only place that has the stainless head gasket is volvo. Tasca used to carry them, but upon calling them, they only had one headgasket in stock, and the guy had no way to verify if it indeed was a steel one or a fiber. After the one was sold, he said the number was comming up as permanent back order or pretty much NLA. If you can get a steel gasket through a volvo dealer, that should be fine with new head bolts. Otherwise, you will probably want to do arp head studs if you plan to really run it hard. You could do both but thats overkill. ARP studs have held 40lbs of boost on a 3 notch standard head gasket.

Jason
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  #24  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:35 PM
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BTW, the head studs are made for a 1.6 vw diesel by ARP, you need 1-1/2 sets. If you call them directly, you can buy them individually rather than two sets like you would end up buying from a distributor like summit or someplace.

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2010, 07:30 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
BTW, the head studs are made for a 1.6 vw diesel by ARP, you need 1-1/2 sets. If you call them directly, you can buy them individually rather than two sets like you would end up buying from a distributor like summit or someplace.

Jason
aah, i was trying to figure out where to get em, but now I know they are for the 1.6.... diesel? i assume..

ill call volvo today and see if I can get the HG still lol. I intend on pushing the full ammount of boost "20-30psi" or whatever that little turbo can fully put out with no wastegate. Ive got no idea what condition the rod bearings are in... are they pretty durable? or is about 200k their lifespan lol, keep in mind is been pretty well taken care of until I got it, and i believe its got 268k...

ALSO, i dug around and I cant find really any other clutches except exedy OEM, what do you guys prefer and where can I get one... or more like what does it cross fit since I can never find anything SPECIFICALLY for the d24 and M46 tranny lol
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2010, 09:41 AM
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I'm running the stock turbo diesel pressure plate, (german Sachs) and a clutchnet 6 puck with a sprung center. It grabs HARD as evidence I have a blown M46 to show for it after only 3 days. They also have some other discs like organic, kelvar, etc... Unless your really trying to push this thing, I would maybe get the step down from the 6 puck. Clutchnet also sells upgraded pressure plates, but they are pretty pricey. They also told me they can rebuild your stock pressure plate with stronger springs. Thats cheaper than buying outright, but then again the stock german pressure plate is pretty hefty. Lots of the turbo redblock guys use the TD pressure plate as an upgrade. The lower end of these engines is pretty stout, and being non turbo it should have had an easier life on the bearings assuming the oil was changed and they used something decent. If your not already, you should be running synthetic 5-40 like rotella or something.

We are taking my friend Alex's 83 760 out to the track tonight sporting a 3" hood stack, t3/t4 turbo, head studs, and 28lbs of boost! I don't think the clutch is going to hold it very well. Should give you an idea of the potential with average bolt ons and a tweaked pump. We will post video up tomorrow probably!

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2010, 09:42 AM
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I can sell you a german TD pressure plate through the shop I work at (archway, in the vender section). You should check some of the other places too.

Jason
__________________


Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #28  
Old 05-21-2010, 06:37 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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i was digging around, and a google spider threw me to this site... ive seen these phoenix things popup from time to time when looking for clutches.... any news on if they are garbage? says its a TD plate... but im kinda wondering if itll hold 40psi
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2010, 07:09 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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great, just drove the volvo around the block and now the valve cover is making a "scraping" noise X_X grreeaaattt
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  #30  
Old 05-22-2010, 04:26 AM
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Haven't heard of pheonix... I would stick with something proven like a german plate.

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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