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Old 03-20-2018, 12:37 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Default Help! Sudden loss of power, loads of smoke and rattles

I reset the timing last night from 0.88 to 0.98mm.

Ran fine this morning, no rattles, no smoke, until a mile from the office, when I pulled away on a hill around 3000rpm, it suddenly lost all power, started smoking lots (white/blue, smells of unburnt diesel) and sounds like a tractor.

I'm thinking (hoping) the timing has somehow slipped, but could it be something more serious, like a pump problem? It's just had a rebuilt pump with a chinese 12mm head (300 miles ago). Someone told me to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles to "run it in" as some people have had problems with them. So, I've kept 3-3300 rev limit.

Car still starts, but sounds way too advanced, and won't idle on it's own. Can't see any signs of headgasket problems, or anything exploded/leaking.

Can't check the timing until tomorrow morning at least. What do you guys think? Video below:

https://youtu.be/eQAXlfIDs5s
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2018, 02:59 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Forum is slow nowdays....

I saw your video.
That is such a long cranking to start one of these! Is it the case daily because you are low on compression (harder to start when warm/hot?) or was it the first time for the car to start that "hard"?

You said you'll recheck timing asap. I think doing that will reveal something.
I guess it was the very first run after you changed timing (is there a chance you are 180 off?)
Hope you get it figured out quick!

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-20-2018 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:13 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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No, normally starts very quickly - and did this morning before I drove to work.

That long cranking on a hot engine is definitely "something new" - along with the rattle and smoke.

Last night I altered the timing from 0.88 to 0.98, and it started fine last night and this morning. Drove the first 13 miles to work perfectly - no smoke, no rattles, smooth as usual.

Just the last mile, something definitely changed. Wasn't a slow transition, it literally went from running great, to running awful in a split second. I HOPE the timing has somehow slipped!
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:15 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Is there anything in the pump that could cause this?

Fuel line is free-flowing, no air bubbles in the lines etc.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2018, 10:49 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian2000t View Post
I'm thinking (hoping) the timing has somehow slipped, but could it be something more serious, like a pump problem?
Not sure how this could happen, most of my experience with timing "slipping" is when tightening the rear camshaft pulley bolt, the pulley shifts position and ends up with slightly different timing (usually slightly more in the retarded direction). Thinking about it, to "slip" timing while driving, either of the camshaft pulleys, or the crank pulley, or possibly the IP bracket would have to change position. Maybe also waterpump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ian2000t View Post
It's just had a rebuilt pump with a chinese 12mm head (300 miles ago). Someone told me to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles to "run it in" as some people have had problems with them.
What kind of problems did they have? Similar to yours?

Opening up the IP (you changed the hi-press head) always brings the possibility of foreign material entering the IP. What were your workshop conditions like? When working with IP or injector internals, clean room environment is crucial. I heard of a Bosch VE type IP knocked out by a fiber from a thread from a shop rag.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ian2000t View Post
Car still starts, but sounds way too advanced, and won't idle on it's own. Can't see any signs of headgasket problems, or anything exploded/leaking.
Did you forget to relax the cold start cable when setting the IP timing? That would cause more advanced timing when running at operating temp.

A clogged fuel filter made mine smoke gray lots, loss of power and unable to rev. Happened pretty quickly.
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Old 03-20-2018, 11:58 PM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys.

Fixed it last night on the work car park, thanks to my wife bringing tool supplies!

It was just the timing slipped. Cam to crank timing ok, but the rear sprocket on the cam turned around 45.... Or possibly the belt jumped? I have no idea how, as the sprocket was tightened in it's new position (couldn't turn by hand), and the belt doesn't look damaged or loose.



Reset it back to it's proper position and timed it to around 0.9-1.0 and it's running great now.

Can't understand how it was even running that far out. Just glad it's a cheap fix that only took an hour in the work car park.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2018, 03:14 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian2000t View Post

It was just the timing slipped.
...
Can't understand how it was even running that far out.
Easy fixes are comfy. Great news!!
The suggested 100-110Nm is indeed a lot of torque on that rear pulley.

How does the car feel with the 10-11% increase? It must be very noticable...does it drive/smoke much differently?

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-21-2018 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:54 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Easy fixes are comfy. Great news!!
The suggested 100-110Nm is indeed a lot of torque on that rear pulley.

How does the car feel with the 10-11% increase? It must be very noticable...does it drive/smoke much differently?
Yes, very happy it was a simple fix. You wouldn't have thought so with the amount of smoke and noise it was making!!


Well, the timing is actually now "wrong". When I reset it to 0.9-1.0 last night it was done very crudely, and with the cold start connected. I basically just wanted to know that it would start and get me home. I think it's now more retarded than the 0.88mm it was originally once the cold start has relaxed.

So, I'll look at re-timing it back to 0.98-1.00mm again the weekend... and I'll tighten the pulley properly!!!
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2018, 04:49 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Timing slipped so much

How does it run now?
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2018, 04:55 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Played with timings from 0.88 to 1.05. In my case, the best setting with the 12mm pump seems to be 0.96. Feels strongest on boost, and also giving marginally better MPG.

Feels good, just a shame about the soggy autobox, and restrictive turbo and downpipe now!!
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg
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