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  #31  
Old 01-05-2014, 11:53 PM
raw raw is offline
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cheers for that reply, definitely makes sense. i think the same theory is used to make sure that wheel braces tighten wheel nuts to roughly the right torque isn't it?

right, so what happened on saturday morning?

the day started with 'fire, to destroy all you've done...' (i posted this on VOC last night and i will make it clear on here that i have no knowledge of who that song is by and don't know any of the song other than that line, which is featured in the background in 'hot fuzz')



in my case it was to remove the evidence of me having sheared off an EGR pipe stud.

having made surprisingly easy work of that i moved on to some cleaning:



as you can see it was already starting to rain by the time i got this pipe clean enough to notice that damage. its not all that clear but something has cut pretty deep into now of my intercooler pipes! will have to find a replacement one sometime and i don't see any chance of the intercooler being upgraded any time soon so a standard replacement may have to be found.

anyway, by now it was raining properly, so i took over the kitchen worktop (after protecting it from damage of course - definitely didn't have to be told to do that one and i've certainly never managed to drill a hole in it before which wouldn't have anything to do with why i'm forced to be so careful now - and i started working on a little modification that i've been planning for a while and thought i'd implement while all the parts were off already.

a while back i faffed about with the fan from the V70 that i broke trying to make it fit my fan shroud and still clear the fan pulley on the D24. saturday i decided i'd make it fit while i had all the bits off, especially since my viscous coupling had seized solid. this was what i ended up with after a bit of cleaning (i decided that the fan shroud was wwayyy to dirty to be in my engine bay)



a few screws and some filing:



add a fan:



job done, it actually looks fairly decent surprisingly!

missing in all my photos for some reason is the bracket off the V70 which will hold the relay and the thermostat which i stuck together as theres no fixing method on the thermostat.



there you go, one new electric fan shroud and complete wiring for it. total cost so far, one thermostat off ebay for less than a tenner including postage

remaining issue, i don't think its actually far enough forward to clear the standard fan pulley, hence i'm removing the standard fan pulley all together and fitting a shorter belt to just go to the alternator alone.

simples

Richard
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  #32  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:17 AM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Looks like the TIC does not have the blow open deals on the side of the shroud the older cars do.

for the IC hose, You could wrap it in the as seen on TV silicone 'emergancy repair tape'.
I fabricated about 3 inches of my crank vent hose out of it after a chunk fell off(it was really hard n brittle), and it held for a year, and was still good when I found a fresher hose.

A tire patch wold probably work fine too.
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  #33  
Old 01-07-2014, 01:33 PM
raw raw is offline
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So the old girl is living again, running smoother than ever, quieter and it's amazing how much more refined it is with no fan! Electric fan all fotted and wired too and works, set the thermostat to 80 degrees and it seems to come on when you give it a bit of a pasting, and then go off when you are gentle which seems about right to me at the moment, maybe I'll adjust a little if someone suggests I may be wrong.

No obvious leaks either and all sounds good �� PSF still leaking obviously as I haven't gone near it and still haven't fitted the bed gearbox crossmember either but exams need to come first at the moment. Interestingly the steering feels a lot lighter without the fan ok the front and I think I need to turn the idle down a tiny bit too!

Richard
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  #34  
Old 01-13-2014, 01:11 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Nicely done, looking good! Interesting to see that later style belt setup in detail. Surprising they made so many changes to the front of the motor just for a couple final years that they were building it. Wonder what the benefits were, other than making it a little easier to work on.

Good to hear it's running well. Did you find a good way to torque that crank center bolt? Don't want to risk running too long without that all the way tight -- would ruin your day if it slipped!
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  #35  
Old 01-13-2014, 11:27 PM
raw raw is offline
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I did the crank bolt with a three foot bar, thick wall steel pipe over that as an extension, and as toght as I could get it with the car in fifth, with someone standing on the brakes. It was tight enough that the car was starting to move so I hope it's right enough, but my torque wrench only goes to 200Nm so that wasn't much help!

Richard
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  #36  
Old 02-14-2014, 12:20 PM
CRB CRB is offline
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Good stuff RAW.
Your song is 'Fire' by The crazy world of Arthur Brown.
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Now playing....BBCRadio 6Music.....
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  #37  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:12 AM
raw raw is offline
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hi all, update time!

CRB, I was informed of this over on the VOC forums when I posted the same post, though I personally only know it from where it appears in 'Hot Fuzz'.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the setting of the electrical fan? After some more use I've been finding that actually the fan comes on fairly regularly when you stop the car, but is almost always off when moving forwards, and goes off after about a minute or so, so I think it's doing the job. Certainly the temperature gauge hasn't done anything unusual and the car hasn't seemed particularly hot or cold, the heater works quicker on a cold morning since the warm up time is reduced and the fuel economy is averaging 37MPG which is pretty respectable I think. I wound the idle back down and need to reset the pump timing and the cold start device, since I am a fool and adjusted the timing when it wouldn't run right after the belt job, before remembering that the cold start was still disconnected and that advances the timeing when cold - now the timing is too advanced.

Been working on the car the last couple of days, trying to find the cause of a rumbling noise I've had - see the 700/900 section for a thread about it if anyone's interested - I think I may have today found the true cause for this!

Lesson's I've learned/been reminded of today:

If you point fire at something it usually gets hot
Hot, burning underseal invariably falls on your hands
Hot, burning underseal sticks to skin quite well
Safety Specs, while good when using machine tools, are worse than useless under a car - I think about the only thing that would keep dust out of your eyes under there might be swimming goggles
Red Oxide Primer is not a nice paint to use, but at least it dry's fast!
Don't get Power Steering Fluid in your eyes
Car need's to pay a visit to the LSUMC garage and I need to learn to use the welder :/

Richard
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  #38  
Old 02-23-2014, 12:58 PM
raw raw is offline
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So, what's been going on!

Well, I've been at uni and my car's been in service being used for getting to and from places by mom's fiancée and doing it without problem it would seem, although I came home on friday to find that the rumbling noise I had left was certainly getting louder - I know the state of our roads is bad, but I don't think road noise would get that much more noticeable so i figured I'd better have a look to work out what it could be!

I went to jack the car up, and decided that the fact that the rivets are coming out of my cheapo old axle stands, that were only rated to 500kg each to begin with, told me they had done their time and that it was time for me to move on. A quick search on the internet showed me that £23 could have me a nice pair of 1000kg each solid welded ratchet type stands from the Halfrauds Advanced Professional Lifetime Guaranteed Range, so i gingerly drove to Rugby, since it was the nearest Halfords big enough to have some in stock. Got myself a trade card while I was there and ended up paying £19 for them I think, not a terrible deal really, though I'll get another pair and a new jack sometime, probably from SGS Engineering on t'internet.

Back home and about that noise, now my first suspicion was the centre prop bearing, which I've changed before, but I have no idea why I thought that was what it was tbh, it was just my first guess given what the noise was. After a little inspection it seemed less likely, I could neither see nor feel anything wrong with the bearing apart from the fact that the dust cover things are still loose - clearly need to be less sparing with my epoxy resin!

Next I thought the worst - remembering that my diff makes an odd clunk clunk kind of noise when the rear wheels are rotated (and half hoping I'd 'have' to change the rear axle and conveniently stumble upon a 3.31 ratio 1041), I guessed that the noise, which in fairness does kind of sound like the noise the axle makes but sped up, was something to do with my differential. I changed the diff oil in the hope that the condition of the oil would tell me something - it came out clean and smelling about as good as 75W90 Hypoid Gear Oil ever does :P This I was kind of glad of seeing as I only put it in there about 6000 miles ago! On test-driving afterwards, I believed that it seemed to have quietened down a little, but it's definitely still there and LOUD, and I may have been imagining the change tbh :P

Back home research into diagnosing possible differential issues went on, and I decided it might be the carrier bearings in the axle, though it did seem a little odd to have a problem with a 1031, seeing as I always thought they were pretty bombproof?

Rather than waste the last of the light though, I got the front up and set about changing my gearbox crossmember since i got a nice now one that I'd painted up so it looked nice and new, and the old was a little past it's best to say the least.

Old on the right, new on the left:



As above, not the missing bits where rust has attacked the old one, and how well the wax oil hides my welding :P



Also note how despite me belief that the M90 crossmember was the same as the Auto crossmember and they were all the same, these aren't :|



Thinking NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harmonics), I decided I'd better not fit it with no bushing's at all, so in the absence of whatever are meant to be used, I attacked the ones from the old crossmember with a knife, and made some little rubber washers to go between the crossmember and the car:



Then as I fitted this it went dark, so photo's from yesterday stop. So much for trying to take plenty :|

This morning started late :P but when it did it started with deciding to rectify my long standing power steering leak (since I still haven't taken the car back for an engineer's report about the engine swap since I was given an MOT on account of the last words I heard from the tester having been, 'I'll give you a pass cos I know you'll go and fix that, NOW.')

The offending fluid union (with drip proving that not all the fluid had leaked out :P):



Some may notice that despite being disconnected from the rack, the bolt part of the union remains firmly in the other bit, whatever it's called. That would be down to the 'sealing' washers, that have embedded themselves in the thread of the bolt and decided it's not coming off. In the end i had to resort to one of my decent wood chisels (you know, the ones that are actually sharp and hence hidden from others who might use them inappropriately :P) in order to pry the thing free :| This shows the remains of the washers:



I now started on something else, that I shall come to later after finishing this part of the story so that things make sense. Suffice to say at this point, that I haven't been being the most logical or methodical person today!

Couple of sealing washers and boshed the unions back on, topped up the system, bled and no leaks The liquid on everything is degreaser sprayed everywhere in an attempt to clear up some of the power steering fluid that has coated most of the offside of the car since this leak.



More in a moment

Richard
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  #39  
Old 02-23-2014, 01:52 PM
raw raw is offline
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So, more did happen today than just fixing a power steering leak, I managed to get an awful lot of undersell in my hair and eyes, and poke a few holes in my floor as a reward :|

Now, I've known about this one hole for a while, so i decided to catch it and stop it going any further until i can deal with it properly sometime in the nicer weather. It turned out to be a little more than I expected tbh, but its not the end of the world I suppose:



As is always the way when you decide to, 'just sort that little bit there,' I noticed this looked a bit crusty:



And thought I'd just check this bit too... Oh, that'll be another hole then!



See what I meant when I said I wasn't being particularly methodical?



Other side of the jacking point:



At this point I had a cup of tea and decided I should be a little more logical. Clearly I need to go over the whole of the bottom of the car and check it over for rust, and deal with what I find, repaint and retreat and then the car should be good for another 24 years In that case, as I've started here, I may as well do this area I thought...

Out came the burner - reminds me, need more butane - and a scraper, and I set too deundersealing (Insert Expletives Here) God knows how people strip the whole of the bottom of a car, this is without doubt below working on transverse engined cars in my list of automotive ways to spend a day :| I only got the one chassis rail done from it's end to the back of the wheel arch.





I was going to do the floor between the sill and the rail too, but the carpets were getting warm, and I couldn't be bothered to take them out today, so that's a job for next time! Notice the disappearing light in the background :|



Finally I decided to call it a day for today, so I painted over it all with a couple of coats of rede oxide and called it a day.









I will paint over it all with stone chip and chassis black and I'll be Waxoiling the chassis rails come summer when they dry out properly, but since I'm going to have to cut chunks out of the bottom of the car red oxide will suffice until the welding gets done.

So far the bits that need fixing are, this:



And this:



Ok, this time that's it for now. I'm hoping to do the welding at the car club at uni, and learn to do it myself. If anyone has any ideas on what the best way to do this would be then hints would certainly be appreciated

Richard
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  #40  
Old 02-23-2014, 02:19 PM
raw raw is offline
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Oh, Forgot to mention one big thing!

Car is off the road for the moment! While the front end was in the air, I noticed that the N/S/F wheel bearing is knackered, really badly, and very noisy :P Hopefully this is the source of my rumble, as it's under warranty from GSF still! By the time I next come home - weeks away now - Hopefully I'll have a new one and will also have received a known good Glow Plug Relay to test if that explains my Glow Plug issues

Richard
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