#11
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I like the idea of using the manual timing advance vs. the thermo widget.
I have a rabbit pump on a shelf, and a complete D24T engine on a stand. If there is anything I can take a pic of or compare between the two, LMK. |
#12
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Hi George,
I had assumed that the Bosch engineers had chosen to keep things consistent from pump to pump.....silly me I should have known better! Clearly your VE knowledge is way ahead of mine and thank you for applying the correction. Your explanation is very cohesive and easy to follow. Are you in Europe for vacation reasons or VW reasons? Either way, enjoy the food and liquid refreshment. Just pretend that 1 Euro = 1 dollar, unless you are in UK of course. A well lubed pub lunch will dull the pain :-) Cheers, Steve Quote:
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#13
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Tried the new waxstat in a housing last night on the hob. Only took it to 70C so not to overheat it, and it extended about 20mm I think, then retracted when cool.
First time I have EVER seen one of these move lol!!! Now the fun part of putting it back on the car, and bleeding the air out of the top hose.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#14
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Its not fun putting that thing together with the big spring. I have found it to be much easier with two long bolts that you take back out and replace with the correct ones 1 at a time. Mind those knuckles !
Steve |
#15
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Yep, will try that method if I have some bolts with the right thread (most of mine are UNF though).
Failing that, I'll empty the swear jar ready!!
__________________
1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#16
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If you have access to a spare injection pump (even one off a different engine, i.e. 1.6L VW diesel, older TDI, etc), the pump head screws (the ones that hold the iron pump head onto the aluminum body) are the same thread as the cold start thermostat housing screws, but longer. They can help to get the process started of putting it back together.
Or better yet, if you haven't taken your existing CS housing apart yet already, there is a method that member ngoma devised and showed me that is the easiest of all. Before starting to loosen any screws, can pick up a set of small needle-nose vise grips (locking pliers), pull the rubber accordion boot forward off of its position at the point where the cable exits the housing, and clamp your vise grips onto the cable there to prevent it from receding back into the housing as you take the screws out. This way the springs stay compressed even while you have the rear part of the housing removed, so that you can put it back together with ease. The only tricky part with this method is working around the pair of pliers that are sticking out and running into your wrench.... but that is still easier than fighting those springs on reassembly. Getting the threaded gland nut thing that holds the thermostat unit inside its case is also a little tricky esp if it is stuck.... hammer and screwdriver with the housing in a vise is one method though fairly brutal. I have been meaning to make a proper tool by modifying an old socket, which is probably the better method... could grind away the sides of the socket until it is just a cylinder with two fat tabs sticking out to engage the slots in the CS t-stat gland nut, and then wind it right out.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#17
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Guys thanks for all your help!
Yes, was good fun getting the waxstat out of the housing - hammer, screw driver and gave the housing some heat on the pan first. Cold start is now finally on the car. I actually used a slightly different method but similar in principle. Did as in pic 2 in this thread - put one of the wire screw connector blocks on the the cable before taking it apart. Dane as your pliers idea but easier to work around. So all fitted now, so not knocking the crap out of my warm engine anymore. Does feel a bit slower in lower revs though - maybe static timing would like to be a bit more advanced? Think its on 0.96mm. But running veggy which burns slower than dino fuel.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#18
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Quote:
Quote:
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#19
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Quote/use the pic by all means - might want to correct my type though - "Dane = Same" lol!
Well, it's fitted and working now!
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#20
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Quote:
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Of course there is a preponderance of very nice diesel cars here as well, almost all of which are unobtainable in the States. It is not uncommon to cross a large street in front of traffic stopped at a light, and realize that every vehicle there has the sound of an idling diesel engine coming out of it. An enviable scernario, at least to my mind. Not a ton of old Volvos or other old cars in general but many nice newer diesel Volvos, D5 V70's, etc. I like the TDI Skodas as well. Ian, glad to hear that you got it installed and set up. I suspect that your slight decrease in low-end snap will be accompanied by reduced smoke, better mileage, and less noise along with increased engine life. I suppose only time will tell in the case of the last one though. ;-)
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
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