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I agree with you that the cam acts as a sort of shear bolt so I'm thinking there will be minimal damage. I never thought about just removing the snapped camshaft and testing the lifters to see if the valves all travel as they are supposed to. I was going to pull the head and inspect for bent valves but may take your suggestion and wait on pulling the head. I could replace the cam, which I still need to find and will post separately in the "parts wanted" section, and run a compression test to see if all is o.k. I did start the tear-down as if I'm going to pull the head and got the injection pump bracket bolts loose to remove the rear belt and they were quite difficult. I loosened the pump timing bolts to move the pump as far out of the way as possible but the 17mm bolts were REALLY tight. Is there a special wrench for this job? I was able to get the rear one loose but only after my top secret method of putting valve grinding compound on the face of the box end wrench to get that little bit of extra grab. I had to use a cheater bar also! I've read the method others are using to time the pump by making the adjustment at the rear sprocket but it still seems there may be minor adjustments necessary. A few questions: 1. As mentioned above, is there a special wrench for the 17mm bolts that mount the IP bracket to the block, the ones to adjust the belt tension? 2. Is there a special 6mm allen tool to reach the IP timing bolt that's buried back between the mounting bracket and the pump? 3. Does anyone have a cam for sale? 4. Who sells fresh timing belts? Rock Auto and others have them but have they been sitting on the shelf for 20 years?
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
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