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  #1  
Old 06-20-2013, 09:56 PM
morgan1227 morgan1227 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 31
Default bubbling injector

So I'm bringing back to life an '85 740, almost there. I have been able to get it started (lots of priming & bleeding). It runs rough/noisy, so I have been bleeding again. When cracked open, all injectors spray fuel (and I mean spray) except the injector farthest to the back (cyl 6?). It foams white and just burbles out. I ran the car for 5-10 minutes tonight bleeding it this way, plus drove around the block a few times, real noisy on acceleration. Shop-Rebuilt motor and new IP.

Here come the questions: Bad injector? Dirty? Should I inspect and clean before buying another? Do I just buy a nozzle, or the whole injector? thanks, Bill in AZ
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:09 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Freedom CA
Vehicle: 85 745, 84Suburban 96Ram
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Check for air in the return line.

If you haven't checked valve adjusmtment yourself, probably do that.
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  #3  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:24 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Injector is toast, stuck nozzle will allow engine compression to be forced in hence the foaming and bubbling from the line union when you loosen the nut. I assume it doesn't run all that smoothly either. Sticky needle, replace or rebuild that #6 and should be much better. The other 5 might follow with problems as well if they were exposed to the same things that made that one screw up (usually sitting for a long time or getting fuel with water and/or dirt in it run thru them) so if you're friendly with a good diesel injection shop and can give them all 6, might save yourself from some hassles down the road by dealing with it preemptively -- but then again you might get lucky and only have an issue with that one.

Be careful when removing injectors -- if you take the vacuum pump off in order to remove the fuel lines, be sure to turn engine over to near #1 compression TDC beforehand (notch in IP drive gear roughly lined up with notches on outer corner of IP case and mounting bracket) so that the cam lobe that drives the vac pump is bottomed, relieving spring pressure so that the pump ears don't break off as you loosen the nuts, and watch for the rubber O-ring that seals the vac pump to the head falling out, the O-ring is reusable, don't slather sealant on it!; and be cautious when unscrewing the injector, it's always good to try to be pulling your wrench handle towards the front or the passenger side of the car -- if you try to pull towards the driver's side so that all the force is on the outside edge of the inj hole it's possible to break off that thin part of the head casting while trying to bust the injector loose, then you're in for a lot more of a project than you probably want. Remember to replace the heatshield under the injector. If the old shield is stuck in there, don't use a pick to pull it out, the tip of the pick will break off in the hole and cause you some problems. I like to just blip the starter and let engine compression blast it out of there (cover up your coolant hoses so the IP doesn't spray those with fuel), or if they're really stuck, get a good sized wood screw that will thread into the shield's center hole and engage it so you can yank it out.

Good tip to check valve clearance if the car hasn't seen service in a while -- also even more critical, make sure you plan on changing the timing belt ASAP before putting too many miles on this car if you don't know when it was last done, we've had a couple members on here this year get their motors all dialed in and running the way they wanted and then lose them shortly thereafter to a timing belt catastrophe. Much better to deal with it before it breaks than after...!
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