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  #41  
Old 08-15-2014, 07:17 PM
morgan1227 morgan1227 is offline
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My homemade cam sprocket holder tool worked great.

I am now reconnecting the fuel delivery pipes. The shop that pulled the pump did not mark which line from the manifold went to which injector and I can't find any info or pics. Looking at one of the diagrams from the parts book, it appears that looking at the pump from the front, starting from 1:00 and going clockwise, it looks like 1-5-3-2-6-4 but I'm not 100% sure.
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  #42  
Old 08-16-2014, 12:54 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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None will fit in the wrong spot, and the little antivibration clips leave a witness mark....don't lose those.
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  #43  
Old 08-20-2014, 04:52 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgan1227 View Post
it looks like 1-5-3-2-6-4 but I'm not 100% sure.
1-5-3-6-2-4

FWIW much easier to time it by moving the rear cam sprocket in relation to the cam rather than repositioning the IP, but if you got it timed, then all's well that ends well, just FYI for next time around.

You can remove all the fuel lines as a set too -- another way to save some future hassle, though not a helpful tip at the present moment while you're trying to sort out the jumble of pipes. Like 745 said, there is only one right way to do it, you can figure it out by trial and error if you have to. The #1 connection is the one you identified, uppermost outer union, 1:00 if your perspective is from the front of the car looking at the pump head. Make sure you do get all three of those vibration clamps back on there, if it seems like they won't fit, mess with it until they do -- the hard lines don't like living without them and they will make that fact known to you in short order.

And, of course, make sure everything is surgically clean before you put those fuel lines on there, it doesn't take much to stick an injector. Especially if they have been sitting off the car somewhere for a while, brake cleaner or compressed air is your friend here...
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  #44  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:08 AM
morgan1227 morgan1227 is offline
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I guess I didn't get the cam sprocket bolt tightened enough, so I lost timing and it ran poorly on startup (white smoke, rough idle), so I timed it again using the turn the cam sprocket approach, and made a tool to ensure that it was torqued to spec this time.

I also removed the vacuum pump this time, made the job much easier. On an earlier removal, someone had just used silicone gasket goo, instead of the volvo sealing ring(1328593). Is that OK to do again, or should I try to obtain the ring?

Also, the vacuum push rod fell out (of course) as I removed the pump. I remember someone saying that it matters which way it goes in, but it sure looks symmetric to me. Should I take it work and have them put it on the CMM (measures accurately to .0002")? What would we be looking for?
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  #45  
Old 09-02-2014, 07:23 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgan1227 View Post
I also removed the vacuum pump this time, made the job much easier. On an earlier removal, someone had just used silicone gasket goo, instead of the volvo sealing ring(1328593). Is that OK to do again, or should I try to obtain the ring?
Dunno? Was is leaking with the gasket goo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by morgan1227 View Post
Also, the vacuum push rod fell out (of course) as I removed the pump. I remember someone saying that it matters which way it goes in, but it sure looks symmetric to me. Should I take it work and have them put it on the CMM (measures accurately to .0002")? What would we be looking for?
Look carefully at the surface of the end(s). Do they look the same, or is one end more shiny, maybe with concentric rings?
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