#31
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Auto trans has an emergency kill lever near the top.
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#32
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You're right, this is off a automatic trannied model. I'm going to put it into a manual trannied car once all the engine work is complete.
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#33
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Source for wax-stat?
I'm searching for a source for a reasonably priced wax-stat Volvo part number 9139507, Bosch part number 1467202302 and found one on the "volvopartswebstore" here: http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/pr...4/9139507.html for $95USD. I called my local Volvo dealer and they want $156.
It was not available from these websites: AutohausAZ, CarPartsDiscount, GermanAutoParts, PartsGeek or RockAuto. Is $95 the best price out there? Does anyone know of another source in the U.S.?
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#34
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Answered my own question!!
I found it at my local "Diamond Diesel" shop here in Reno for $90 and I don't pay shipping. I'm going local on this one!
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#35
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I'm surprised, their price was so bad on the pump kit I never went back, at least at the Oakland store.
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#36
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I've never used their service but have had good quotes on parts. Before I could disassemble a pump myself I got a quote on a rebuild for a four cylinder engine pump for $700 - $800 but never used them. They are getting the wax-stat from the Oakland store today!!!
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#37
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940 tdi auto 1995
hi all i am now getting lots of blue smoke on start up strnge after just having injectors replaced with genuine volvo and fitted by diesel bosch agents the col start device seems to be the culprit so its going back for them to have a look at when engine is cold .
could they have done anything to cause this as it was a straight injector swop with heat shields and leak off pipes . thats all they said they did . your comments please would help. regards jp liddy |
#38
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Doesn't sound like the cold start device to me.
Blue smoke indicates oil being burnt. Possible candidates for this are: - valve stem oil seals (these being worn allows oil down into the cylinders when the engine is off, giving blue smoke on startup that clears with running.) - sticky/broken piston rings (these would normally cause blue smoke all the time) - worn turbo (would also smoke a lot of the time) All the cold start device does is raise the idle speed (by pushing on the throttle linkage) and advance the injection timing. If it's not working, you just get standard idle speed, even when cold, and a slightly more lethargic engine until it warms up. I would say failure the other way, i.e. staying in 'cold' mode, even when the engine has warmed up is very rare but you can tell if this is the case as the idle speed will stay very high. Either way, it's not the cause of your blue smoke! |
#39
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940 tdi auto 1995
HI BOOTS
when engine cold and started idle speed is about 600 revs bit lumpy idling it should be 1100 revs while cold it used to be . cold start faults in green volvo manuel are blue smoke when cold and poor running on start up when engine is hot idle speed is about 900 revs . i use just under a litre of oil every 5000 miles its done this since i had the car 14 years now . oil and filter changed every 5000 miles this blue smoke problem has only been since i had the new injectors fitted ! all comments most welcome |
#40
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Not necessarily. Could be fuel too. Incomplete combustion (i.e. timing too far retarded, a dead glow plug or two, faulty injector spray, low compression etc) can manifest as blue, gray, white smoke depending on circumstances. If there's a lot of smoke but minimal oil consumption, as sounds to be the case, then I'd probably have my eyes on ignition issues more than oil use.
Quote:
However, I agree with you that the CS device is unlikely to be the cause of this issue. If it's stuck on, would be good to disengage it because the extra advance when warm isn't going to help the motor's long-term health, but the motor should still start and run OK without it. A little blue/white smoke after a cold start is OK. If there's a lot of it, and a lot of stumbling for the first 30 seconds or so after a cold start, but then runs smooth and clean after that, then you need to check the glow plugs. If it's always slow and smoky, then the guys who did the injectors might have monkeyed with the timing and that needs to be reset. If you used to have fast idle but don't anymore, then that does make it sound like the cold start device could have been disconnected or broken in some unconventional way. Did the cable break? Are all the bits still present? Can you see the advance arm on the pump move and back off as the engine warms up? If it had a couple dead glow plugs, then that might drop the idle speed enough until those cylidners come online to cause what you're seeing. When's the last time the valves were adjusted? Anything else that was done when the injectors were replaced? Why did the injectors get changed? Welcome to the forum! |
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