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  #11  
Old 05-16-2010, 10:07 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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I was thinking since the volvo is.... nearly the oldest car ive owned "81 starlet has it beat" I wanted to put old gauges in it lol... I found this guy that has a BUNCH of oldd WW2 aircraft gauges and is selling them from 20$ to 90$ about 80% of them are in good working condition.... ammo counters compass brake speed knots etc...


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  #12  
Old 05-17-2010, 05:38 AM
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Jason Jason is offline
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You need to get a fan on the radiator itself pulling through like it should have... Also, you can get an oil cooler adapter from a gas volvo engine with hose fittings on it. It will sandwhich between the oil filter and filter mount.

Jason
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:12 AM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
You need to get a fan on the radiator itself pulling through like it should have... Also, you can get an oil cooler adapter from a gas volvo engine with hose fittings on it. It will sandwhich between the oil filter and filter mount.

Jason
aah, ive seen filter relocation kits like that! Ill goto the junkyard and look around,

thanks!

videos today!
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:23 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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no videos today =( i forgot... i wanted to take it on a lengthy road test, so I had to swap out the front pass. tire, remove the condenser, tighten down the leaky valve cover some more, figure out why its getting hot =(

I noticed that the engine was getting pretty hot when driving "about 3/8" from the red" so I filled the resivoir and popped the top radiator hose off and allll the water from the resiv. flowed into the radiator! freakin air bubble trapped in there. By the time i had done all this, i forgot about my camera.... fail

I plan on getting an inline fill neck and re-rout the upper hose straight back and over to the engine, right now it sits up just a bit so the pump has to push the water up into the radiator =(

anyone in need of a FULL ac system? hoses, condensor, pump, evaporator "if i can figure out how to remove it" my fan only works on speed 1, so i dont really use it... windows work just fine =)
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2010, 03:54 PM
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Jason Jason is offline
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We need videos.

Does it run cool now that you got the air purged from the system?

Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF

SOLD but not forgotten! 1984
760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped

My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build
T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics!
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  #16  
Old 05-18-2010, 09:26 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
We need videos.

Does it run cool now that you got the air purged from the system?

Jason
yeah, but either its eating water or the water is escaping from somewhere... it took about a quart of water after driving around all day =/

and, i noticed that the valve cover was still leaking... wtf, so I pulled it off and noticed I couldnt fully crank the cover down and smash the gasket to the head because the studs have this little.... collar? type dealeo preventing you from fully cranking it down...

so I removed all the studs and just used 10mm bolts lol, fixed!


as for vids, i had my camera with me all day today WITH a tripod! but I forgot to take videos... FML ill try tomorrow
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2010, 08:02 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
Not everyone has a million dollar rig like you do. Its called cheap fun.




If you can't find any leaks at the radiator, I would expect you have a leaking HG. What the pressure like in the system after you run it around and its up to temp? Its only supposed to be 14lbs. It may have been leaking for a while, but once you start pushing boost through the engine, its going to make the problem worse, or at least more apparent. When the gasket blew on my friends car, it would be fine driving around untill the first time you get into it and make full boost. Then the coolant system would get pressurized and the hoses were so hard they felt like they were about to explode.

Jason
I just got back from a little drive, I went about 10 miles, shot some pics, got a video and noticed the temp started to goto the normal side of 1/2... then i got on it getting on the freeway "20psi" but only through 2nd gear... then took it easy, it got to 4/5 where it usually sits and I started feeling water on my left hand hanging out the door X_X overheating again.... godammit.

pulled into a gas station and it took about 1/2 gallon to fill it up, shit..

im planning on pulling the thermostat out just to keep it as cool as possible since I have a gas radiator....

as for the PSI in the system... zero! I cut a little hole in the top of the resivoir to relieve pressure so that the flimsy hoses dont pop lol, but now that you say that.... im gonna patch the hole and route the hose from the resivoir overflow into the car so I can feel if pressure is getting through.... since the resivoir pipes into the radiator about halfway down... i can see that the boost could be pushing more than half of the water out so it makes itself overheat X_X

please god, i dont wanna have to change the HG on this beast...


Rant Start:

what in the hell is with the design of this radiator X_X you cant even fill an empty system from the resivoir! more air bubbles than you can shake a stick at! why not just keep a typical old style top fill radiator and get rid of the silly tank... its seemed to work for centuries, why reinvent the wheel now?

like I said in an earlier post, I plan on piping in a fill neck in the top hose.... thatll fix that stupid problem.
end rant
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2010, 08:22 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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Question:

If I DOhave to change the head gasket "not a big deal, ive done it on my v6 4runner and 4cyl corolla" is it possible to just crank it over to cylinder #1 TDC, slide the FRONT belt off, mark the top and bottom, and not have to take off the back? "crosses fingers"

cause I cant tell if the pump is attached to the head only? or what..
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  #19  
Old 05-19-2010, 08:49 PM
Slobodan Slobodan is offline
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If you mark everything, and make damn sure shit don't move. You should be fine. but its easier to have the right tools. To set pump timing, and what not. There are some interesting things about these engines. like the front cam gear.. No key way to index. Its a tapered fit. and when refitting the gear the bolts torque spec is 33ftlbs.

head bolt torque
33
44
55
180degree
run engine till warm
90degree
run car 1000miles
90degree further.

rear cam gear is 75ftlbs but you shouldn't need to remove that one.

the manifolds are around 15 ~ 16ftlbs

I would remove the cam shaft in order to lessen the risk of damaging the valves during removal of head. cam shaft cap nuts torque - 15ftlbs



Would be a good idea to get head shaved.... but take it to a machine shop that has worked on these heads. Do not worry about the cracks between the valves. its normal. head work will probably run you around 400$ on the high side. especially if you've overheated the engine a couple times.

Use new head bolts. or get ARP head studs. If you can find one, Get the metal head gasket... much better. I've done a couple head gaskets on these engines. I haven't done them the right way because the owners didn't have the money but wanted it running. So we did it the ghetto way. And so far so good. but then again. They didn't have just one head to choose from.


That is if you do have a blown head gasket.

I like doing the head gaskets on these engines because everyone else is like "What the hell?? how do you do this? " I say its easy watch this...
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  #20  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:33 PM
hvguy hvguy is offline
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weaksauce video, but you can see at the first of the video where the temp gauge usually sits =( then later on in the 4th gear pull, you can hear the clutch slipping like banana's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wga2NFuHbR4
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