|
|
|
|
#1
10-23-2017, 09:36 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry the (relatively) simple injectors R/R job went south on you. I'm trying to imagine how or what kind of hole punch could be used to pull out the injector heat shields.
Another tool you will want (if you do not have it already): 12mm x 1.75 pitch bottoming thread tap. You really want to get those head bolt holes cleaned up well. Spend extra time to get any liquids or other crud out of the bottom of the holes. Also, cut the tops off of a few of your old head bolts to use as locator posts when lowering the head onto the block. Helps keep the gasket in position. Quote:
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t 
|
|
#2
10-24-2017, 06:37 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Hi Ngoma, It was just a long shafted thinish gauge punch, I was just popping the tip a little through the centre of the washer and applying the tinniest bit of lateral pressure to release, all was going well as i say until the 6th cylinder with the washer being more carbon'd up i applied a tad more pressure and snap, no bend, just snap and a quite a few sweary words, but i've only really got myself to blame, although I could almost guarantee if it been an old school tool made in the West I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have just let go like that, lesson learnt! I don't have a tap, but have blown them out and ran the old bolts in and out numerous time with a bit of lub, they seem to be good and clear with all bolts bottoming out level, but i might take the advice and grab a tap just to be sure! I did cut the heads of the old bolts however and angle ground a slot into the tops... I will continue the write up until the head is back on the car, however you said you might have a photo of the glow plug bussbar rear area, as explained across in another thread, and for anyone else interested, I cut the copper bussbarr behind the pump at plug 5/6, one out of frustration trying to free off number 6 plug from behind the pump, and also as I had a plan to upgrade to new wiring, I used 8AWG single core marine grade cable, which I'll get onto through the thread, however I've managed to somehow misplace a ziptie bag which i stuck the old bar parts into and now can't work out how it attaches up into the glowplug relay wiring, I see a female spade connector, so Im thinking the end of the copper buss had a male spade on the end somehow? also the sensor in the rear of the head (see last photo below)... 'Block with the old head bolts chopped and slotted' 2meekb6.jpg 'The female connector, seems to run back to the glow plug relay, question is how does it engage the bussbar?' 2zhec2c.jpg And this 'water temp sensor' I thought the water temp sensor was the cabled sensor up front, so what the hell does this connect to, can't see any cables at the rear and can't remember removing any, it;s about the one area that i didnt take a load of photos off unfortunately! 14jlv2v.jpg Cheers.
|
|
#3
10-24-2017, 10:35 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Female spade connector on the brown wire that runs to the GP relay connects to the temperature sensor at the rear of the head. It slides onto the round disc standing off the end of the sensor, just slides on perpendicularly. It provides input to the GP relay logic, to determine whether to energize the GPs at start or not.
The other water temp. sensor, near the front of the head by #1 GP is for the instrument panel temp. gauge. Attached photos of the rear bussbar. The bends allow it to thread thru the IP mounting bracket. The #6 GP connection is slotted open to ease removal/install. The small nut on the GP terminal just needs to be loosened, not entirely removed (and lost!). http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...1&d=1508869984 http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...1&d=1508870006
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
|
|
#4
10-25-2017, 05:54 AM
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'd never have thought that connector fitted onto that sensor end unless i'd put the head on first and seen nowt else to try it on! I offered up the head minus manifold to the block, unfortunately plug 6 fouls the pump, so need to decide weather to move the pump, or go with skint knuckles and swearing getting the plug and lead on afterwards haha! Cheers.
|
|
#5
10-25-2017, 09:46 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
You'll probably like it better to remove GP #6 before refitting the head, and reinstall GP #6 afterward. Some like to lay a board over the engine compartment and attack it from the other side.
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
|
|
#7
02-06-2018, 08:02 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Apologies for lack of reply, the work was put on hold for some time due to work commitments and crappy Scottish weather (repairs on the drive way, the worst for winter repairs!!) But I actually got kicked back off couple of days ago, and was planning a day at it today, but it bloody snowed here last night!  and am still planning an entire finished write-up on it....Power coated rocker, intake manifold, timing cover etc..the exhaust manifold was sprayed in high temp paint by me, but started to flake, so I just wire wheeled it right back to bare metal again, New gasket, head bolts etc, and head back on.... [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]Unfortunately the IP lock pin makes it through the pulley, but appears a tad too fat to make it into the hole in the IP bracket (pump and bracket are aligned, IP hasnt been tilted over, though i might as plug 6 is still needing inserted)..theres not much in it so i'll emery cloth it down a bit....inserted a piece of thinner bar I cut off a 1/2" drive bar, but its too thin to hold the IP locked out at the yellow timing mark on the pulley. [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]Also just noticed the rear cam pulley has a slot/key and a notch on the outer rim, like the IP pulley, cant recall anything on the rear cam nose that requires lined up, aside from the cam itself being locked off horizontally with tool 5190 or equivalent, I'll need to take another look at that when i'm next out... To do the crank locking i'm using an adapted lock tool from Skandix, its like Volvo 5187 aside from it's got a straight handle, so out the box you cant lock it against the fan housing, I drilled a couple of holes in it, got a bit 10mm mild steel and cut some spacer plates for it, to lock up, hoping it works as planned as the dreaded crank bolt during strip down, didnt test it, as was found to have about15ftlbs or less on it, i was ready with a huge breaker bar and a section of scaffold pole lol...anyway glad I found potential disaster!! [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]So weather permitting it should be running very soon (famous last words!!) Cheers.
|
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
