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  #21  
Old 06-10-2014, 08:35 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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  #22  
Old 06-14-2014, 01:57 PM
Hecklebone Hecklebone is offline
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Got the block loose, will pull it out and get the crank out tomorrow.
Here is a look at the heli-coil that pulled out:
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  #23  
Old 06-14-2014, 10:11 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Why are you going to pull the crank out?

Unless you're switching blocks, I think it makes sense to keep it as whole as possible, no?
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  #24  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:03 AM
Hecklebone Hecklebone is offline
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If everything were okay, i would agree. I am concerned about two things:
1) machining threads or inserts could get shavings in the cylinder bores.
2) there are already steel chips in the bores from the head gasket. As i rotated the crank to umbolt the flex plate from the TC, a lot of oily steel chaff was pushed up. I can only imagine there are steel chips down in the piston rings already, and that cannot be good and must b cleaned out, perhaps even have the bores re-honed.
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  #25  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:46 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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IMHO that would getting ahead of things a bit -- those concerns are possible, but there are ways to protect the bores (and oil passages, water jackets, etc) from intrusion of contaminants while working on the bolt holes, and you can probably clean up what's in there now by running the pistons up and down a few times with oil in the bores to catch whatever the rings push up, shooting in some air at TDC, etc. Disassembly of the bottom end is definitely not a routine necessary step during a headgasket replacement, much less honing bores.

Provided you don't see evidence that bore damage has occurred already, I think I would probably try to put a limit on how much work I commited myself to, and leave it whole unless/until the machine shop says more of it needs to come apart in order to do their work. If you can keep it as a complete short block that you can just plug back in and stick a head onto after you get things sorted out, that's really a whole different kind of job vs pulling the bottom end apart. Personally, given that this work is not being done in a sterile machine shop anyway, I think you would introduce more possibility of contamination by taking the crank system apart than you are looking at now.

My $0.02 anyway, worth what you're paying for it, etc. I guess my main suggestion would be to get the machine shop's opinion, and only pull it as far down as they say you have to. You going to work with All Pro again?
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  #26  
Old 06-16-2014, 04:51 PM
Hecklebone Hecklebone is offline
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Took it into the machine shop today. First thing they said was 'F&$k me, get those pistons out, they are filled with steel shavings fom the gasket.'
We will see what happens when they open it up and look at the head.
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  #27  
Old 06-16-2014, 05:58 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hecklebone View Post
First thing they said was 'F&$k me, get those pistons out, they are filled with steel shavings fom the gasket.'
Fair enough.

How much did the gasket lose -- must have been a lot? Did they have any guesses as to what had happened to it, if it was a materials failure or excessive crush/heat? Guesses as to whether it flaked apart when you pulled the head off or if it happened when the motor was running?

Will be interested to hear what kind of shape the head is in...
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